then yesterday, weird things happened

Early morning start, then glow plug light and relay continued clicking for the next few miles. I had a feeling there would be a problem

That's a sign of the controller having issues or bad chassis grounds, not the plugs.

Assuming you probably still have that old style controller.

 

I thought that at first, but she restarts fine while still warm. Plus it only did that once.

And yes I still have the old controller. Replaced 2 years ago

 

glowplugs should be removed once a year and visually inspected, 3 years is too long, also you might be better served to install a manual override as well, if you have not done it already....

 

I've been reading about manual override for years. If it is the controller, I will come back for instructions. I've purchased at least 4 controllers over the years and am tired of dishing out 100 bucks a pop

 

as to your question on how many glows are needed to start... that varies per vehicle but in my experience 2 dead glow plugs makes start up miserable, even in the warmer months.

 

Thanks HP. I had no idea only a couple would make such problems :confuzeld

 

Maybe I should have started this thread differently

If you went out to start your truck, the starter turned great, but no fire-up...........where would you start, to diagnose the problem

p.s. - It seems as long as I start it every 2 hours, it starts right up-----?????

 

Maybe I should have started this thread differently

If you went out to start your truck, the starter turned great, but no fire-up...........where would you start, to diagnose the problem

p.s. - It seems as long as I start it every 2 hours, it starts right up-----?????

Does the glow plug light on dash come on when key is first turned on?
How long is it on?
Have you cycled key 2 - 3 times, then try to start it?

 

In the summer, I've had it start with 4 glow plugs, same with a few customers, but as soon as it got cold, forget it.

Either do the manual switch or wire in the newer 88 controller, that's what I did, so far, so good, first time starting the GP's stay on for 12 secs, which is perfect for Duraterms.

All your doing with a test light is touching the GP spade terminal while you turn the key on looking for voltage, which means the GP is working but doesn't tell how well its working. If your unsure, you can pull the GP's and test them one by one using some wiring with clips and a battery.

 

Exactly.
As I said, this is the quick test. It lets you know if any are dead.
An override is very easy for your system, a lot easier than $100 controllers that don't last like the old style ones.

 

Can I use a digital meter If I can't find a working light probe?

What are the dial settings for that?

 

Yes, set it to resistance, check with wire off, go from tab to ground, should be very low resistance.
I would also check voltage going to glow plugs, set meter to DC volts, clip Red Positive to tab on GP and Black on Good Ground, Should read around 10vdc when relay is on.
You could also set meter to read Amps and remove wire from GP put red test lead on that wire and black test lead on tab on GP, have someone turn on key as you read meter.
Should be around 10-12 amps. (E / R = I).
Do this to each GP and you will know which ones are good and which are bad.
Amps should read around 10 amps = Good
Amps 0 = Bad

 

I think there is a test to use a multimeter for resistance, but i havent done it and dont know the procedure.

Glow plugs are important, but that seems like a heck of a lot of cranking even if the glows were all dead. I am assuming in Florida you are having temps of at least 60* so I am thinking fuel drain back issues or air leaks. I have to park downhill if I'm parking for more than a few hours or else it is killer to start.

 

You could use a multi-meter to + on the battery to read voltage or to ground and read resistance. The resistance will tell you how good it is. What it should read kinda varies with the glow plugs and the meter. I know mine reads 1.2-1.3 resistance with new plugs on a digital meter. one with a needle will read differently.

 

The time and energy measuring you could have them removed in 10 mins and that's on a bad day.

If you have a block heater, plug it in for a few hours, use a light timer.

 

The time and energy measuring you could have them removed in 10 mins and that's on a bad day.

Are you saying I should just replace them without testing?

If you have a block heater, plug it in for a few hours, use a light timer.

There is a cord with a plug in there. I've never used it. Are you saying plug it in to make the start easier? And 'use a light timer' I don't think I have that, but use it for what?

 

What's the trick to get the last thread of old glow plug to release??? They are just spinning around

 

Sounds like your glow plug has a swollen tip and won't come out of the hole. They can be a real bear to get out, from what I hear, though I haven't dealt with it myself. If you end up breaking off the tip, do *not* run the motor until you get it out (usually means removing the injector and fishing it out from there).

 

I've tried to take out 3 and they are doing the same thing. They unscrew 90% then just spin. Now what...:help2:

These plugs are only a couple years old, so it's not like they've been in there forever, like the last ones, which came out pretty easy

 

With the block heater, you should start to hear a very quiet hissing sound within a couple minutes of plugging it in. The light timer idea was so you could set the block heater to turn on a couple of hours before you need her to start, to heat the engine for you and make it easier to start without glows.

For the glow plugs, I only have bad answers. The plugs could all be swollen. In fact, it's likely; if something went wrong with the glow plug controller and it stuck 'ON' or was just 'ON' more than it should be, all of the plugs will overheat. Since you bought the cheaper plugs, they swell when they overheat, so it would make a certain amount of sense that they would all be swollen.

I've heard of guys here getting them out with a lot of patience, spinning the plug, pulling hard on the plug, and just in general swearing at it while trying to pull it out of the head. There are some who just get pissed and snap them off in the head and then pull the injectors to get the tips out. There's a rare few who will just let the truck eat them but this is really not suggested.

Since I haven't dealt with swollen plugs myself, I can't give you any better suggestions than that. Hopefully someone on here will chime in with better ideas.

 

The block heater worked and it started up after being plugged in for an hour. So at least I'm not stranded. However, the cord is very fragile. I will look for a new one

I am very afraid you might be right about the GPs. I will probably have a real diesel guy look at it tomorrow if I can find one. Don't really know anyone in this part of the world

 

The block heater worked and it started up after being plugged in for an hour. So at least I'm not stranded. However, the cord is very fragile. I will look for a new one

Here is a link to show you what the block heater cord looks like: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...nes/20-6-2l-diesel-engine/327434-replacement-block-heater-cord.html#post3454961.

The connector to the heating element is about mid center down low on the drivers side of the engine. There are probably a couple of clips holding the cord to the frame. Snake the cord out, unplug it and take it to an auto parts store. They should be able to get you a new one.

 

Here's a link on a recent stuck glow plug thread

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...-engines/20-6-2l-diesel-engine/592754-removing-stuck-then-broken-glow-plug.html

Someone else posted a link to a better removal tool recently, but I don't see it.

:thumb: on the block heater.

 

I have a tool if you want to buy it, was used on 1 glow plug on my 1992 6.5 and worked like a charm!
PM Me for $...
Not the cheap tool but the good machined unit.
Get Kennedy glow plugs!!!
They do NOT swell!!!

https://www.kennedydiesel.com/categoryresults2.cfm?Category=1&SubCategory=61

I used them in my 1992 they work great and lasted 2 years then sold truck.

 

Get Kennedy glow plugs!!!
They do NOT swell!!!

https://www.kennedydiesel.com/categoryresults2.cfm?Category=1&SubCategory=61

I used them in my 1992 they work great and lasted 2 years then sold truck.

Those are just Delco AC 60g's, avalablie anywhere, but Kennedy has a good price and great service.
Those or Bosch Duraterms are the recommended plugs, they are self limiting and don't swell and resist burning out.

Most people prefer the Bosch as they heat up faster.

 

carb cleaner and patience and a good penetrant, I have never broke a glow plug on 6 engines. use antiseize to avoid other problems. your early setup is very easy to manual override, a quick search should have some good results. don't buy cheap plugs, I have even burnt out 60g's, yeah they were old, but they die too, I have duraterms now, we'll see how they last. good deals on ebay.

 

doubtful, they will spark a little when first plugged in, there is more load on the element when cold. but if it shot sparks or something, then yes that's not right. the heater is probably ok....

 

Thanks for the reassurance. Trying to fix it now

 

So, it looks like he patched a cord onto the end of the old cord that frayed, not knowing that is a plug that comes off the heater. Hard to see under there

So that plug should should come off and plug in another cord? Can't I just use a household cord?

How does the heater work? What does it heat that makes the truck start and what temp does it get to?

Does it warm the coolant, which warms the oil? :think:

 

It warms the coolant which warms the rest of the motor, including the oil. I don`t think it has a thermostat so it will get as warm as ambient temperatures allow. It will never get really hot though, cause it just isn't big enough and putting out enough heat to get the entire motor hot (lots of coolant, lots of steel and enough surface area that the heat is lost to the air), but it will get it warm for sure

 

I've never had the cord off so I'm not certain but the connection looks different to me than a regular household connection (the connection at the heater itself not the one that plugs into the house) I'm sure your neighbour just had a couple strands of wire touching each other. Take it apart and wrap it up real well with electric tape. If you are seeing a couple very small sparks at the plug when you are plugging it in that's normal. I'm talking about if it's sparking at wherever he spliced the 2 cords together

 

Yes, you are right. The plug end looks a little different than a household cord from the pictures I've seen online for the replacement cord. It has been re-taped and worked enough to start the truck. I really freak out when I feel stranded

So far I am not having any luck getting a replacement cord. The part stores are all......This is Florida..no one needs that. :HiHi:

 

Well, since it works just enough for right now, you might be able to get away with buying a replacement cord online and waiting for it to arrive.

Any luck getting the glow plugs out?

 

you might be able to get away with buying a replacement cord online and waiting for it to arrive.

Haven't been able to locate one yet, but yes, I hope the rigged mess will hold for a few days

Any luck getting the glow plugs out?

:shake:

 

just to cover all the bases we have a clean used block heater here too, might need a new o-ring, but it is still clean, will put it in too for insurance, going after lunch to the post office to get this sent out, the only thing we need in return is too send us up some of your warm weather....LOL

 

I'd want fresh Florida Orange Juice

 

There they go again, giving parts away to a good home.

 

we need to, we have an italian friend who comes here, when he sees all those cords hanging there, he does not see cords, he sees scrap copper that he can burn off the rubber to make weight.....:shake:

 

shipped, tried to get it to you faster than 4 days, but just wasnt gonna hapen...LOL.. anyways heres the tracking number: CX 507 923 238 CA...

 

Thanks. You are a doll