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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
i've been trying to use my new endoscope and have come up with several pics showing fuel leaks (plural). this first one shows 2 drops forming ... one between the 2 bottom injection line connections and the second from further forward and to the right side of the ip (viewpoint is from the cab forward toward the grill).

IMG_0014.JPG

these pics shows the area where the second drop seems to be coming from but i couldn't catch a pic of a drop forming or dropping. the closeup pic here doesn't add anything. i don't know what these parts are and whether the leak could come from here or not. can anyone identify it for me? btw, i was able to get a short video showing the drops falling but don't know how to put it in the post. thanks, peyton

IMG_0011.JPG IMG_0017.JPG
 

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The first pic shows a leak at the connector on the left, you can see the trail it leaves.
The second pic I cannot make out much there
Third pic looks like pooled fuel.
I would address that leaking connector then wipe things down and then start watching for other leaks to appear
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Great pictures, what scope did you get?
it is a teslong nts500b with 5mm head, dual cameras and very sharp 5" screen. i got it off amazon for $125. as you can probably tell from the pics, using an endoscope is new to me but i'm very happy with it so far.

peyton
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
The first pic shows a leak at the connector on the left, you can see the trail it leaves.
The second pic I cannot make out much there
Third pic looks like pooled fuel.
I would address that leaking connector then wipe things down and then start watching for other leaks to appear
thanks okdually,

i can't, for the life of me, see (or differentiate) the fuel trail but i'm sure you're right. i have trouble getting to those bottom connectors with a wrench so i'll probably have to disconnect the adjacent ones first to get to it. i haven't done this before so my question is: once the connectors are loosened do the injection lines just pull straight out? same question for removing lines from injector and finally, any idea what size caps are needed to keep them clean? thanks again,

peyton
 

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thanks okdually,

i can't, for the life of me, see (or differentiate) the fuel trail but i'm sure you're right. i have trouble getting to those bottom connectors with a wrench so i'll probably have to disconnect the adjacent ones first to get to it. i haven't done this before so my question is: once the connectors are loosened do the injection lines just pull straight out? same question for removing lines from injector and finally, any idea what size caps are needed to keep them clean? thanks again,

peyton
Each line is prebent to line up with the corresponding Injector. Loosen both ends and carefully remove. You do not want too much force on those lines.
Before you remove any line be sure to mark it well so you know where to put it back. If you remove more than one line it is possible to cross lines when trying to reinstall everything. Take your time and pay attention to things
Not sure on cap sizes
 
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Pop the rubber boot off the end of the fuel solenoid and make sure the terms are not leaking fuel.
 
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
ok, today i screwed up my courage and began removing injection lines. the goal was 4 and 5 because the main leak seems to come from between them. however, i also took off 1 and 3 to get better clearance for 5 and also because all three injectors were easy to get a wrench on. i didn't get 4 or any of the other even-numbers yet because the injectors on that side are hard to see much less put a wrench on.

anybody know the best way to get to the even-numbered injectors? will removing the tin shield under the turbo be enough or is more required? or are they perhaps approachable from under the vehicle?

i plan to remove all eight lines so i can re-install them from the bottom up with less interference from the upper lines and maybe get tighter connections that way. comments and suggestions are, as always, gratefully accepted,

peyton
 

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Maybe try taking the shield off and use a crows foot that is shaped like a flare wrench. When I did my injectors I read somewhere that someone had done theres with out removing the turbo. I looked at it and wished I had hands that small.
 

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Removing the fender liner will help make it easier also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
thanks guys,

the inner fender was not a problem but the heat shield is a big problem so far. is anything holding it in place besides by the 2 screws at the top. removed the screws and thought it might just pull out but so far i can barely move it at all. i really don't want to even contemplate removing the turbo but maybe that may end up being necessary. any tricks/thoughts? thanks,

peyton
 

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It pulls up after 2 screws removed. Can require some effort.
 
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
It pulls up after 2 screws removed. Can require some effort.
well, it took more than "some" effort but it is off now. am taking off the remaining lines now to clean and examine the connections, etc. if nothing obvious, i'll put the lines back on with correct torque and see what happens.

btw, i used metric crows feet on the connectors but while looking at sockets on amazon, ran across this " high pressure fuel line socket for detroit diesel" which i think will work much better. has anyone used one?
Screenshot from 2021-06-07 11:45:48.png


thanks,

peyton
 
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
update/questions:

all lines are off and i am now checking for cracks, burrs, dirt, etc. on the lines and connectors on the lines themselves. next is checking the delivery valves on the ip. is it bad to use an abrasive (scotch bright) to clean up the male tips of the lines?

turning the ignition key to "on" turns on the lift pump for a short time so if i turn it "on" without the lines connected will that purge the delivery valves of contaminants, make a big mess or do nothing at all?

i'm hesitant to remove the rubber cover over the pmd terminals because of brittleness. any way for leakage to occur inside the rubber cover? and are the rubber covers available?

any o-rings to check/replace on the ip itself?

analysis:

from what i can see with my endoscope, there is a main leak where fuel drops form between delivery valves 4 and 5 and there is a secondary leak where drops form on the passenger side of the ip near the advance cover.

and, fwiw, in addition to the those two leaks, i've seen a partial drop of fuel on the bottom of the rubber cover. where did that come from? well maybe if line #s 7 or 8 or, possibly, 1 or 2 leak, then it might be possible for some fuel to migrate onto the rubber cover. make sense? otherwise, i don't see how a leak at line #s 3,4,5 or 6 could get on the rubber cover.

thanks,

peyton
 

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i'm hesitant to remove the rubber cover over the pmd terminals because of brittleness. any way for leakage to occur inside the rubber cover? and are the rubber covers available?
The Fuel Solenoid (FSOL) has an O Ring seal that can leak.
If you remove the rubber boot be careful not to twist it off or you can break the wires to the solenoid.
Just gently peel the boot back and it should come off.
 

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The studs that the wires connect to can get loose.
They have o-rings on them.

643657


643658
 
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
The Fuel Solenoid (FSOL) has an O Ring seal that can leak.
If you remove the rubber boot be careful not to twist it off or you can break the wires to the solenoid.
Just gently peel the boot back and it should come off.
first, an apology. in a previous message, i miscalled the ip fuel line connectors by the name "delivery valves". sorry for any confusion that resulted from that.

okdually, in reviewing what i saw today, i believe the minor weeping described below could be the result of a leak in the large fsol o-rings. as i read it, in order to replace the 2 big o-rings on the fsol, it is necessary to remove it from the ip. can i do this without removing the ip from the engine? are those o-rings available in a kit for the ds4 or do i just take the old ones to autozone and search the dorman bin? altho i have a pdf of the ds4 manual i hope to only replace o-rings where necessary and not go deeper. thanks.

i cleaned and checked the injection lines for bad threads, obvious cracks, deep scratches, etc and found nothing out of the ordinary. it occured to me that it shouldn't hurt anything to turn the lift pump on with the injector lines removed and so i did. this pressurized the the ip causing the leaking described below but, to my surprise, nothing dribbled from the fuel line connectors. i removed the rubber boot and with the lift pump turned on there was no visible leakage at the terminals. so i'm left with the conclusion that the injector lines are not the source of the leaks i've been experiencing and that the leaks are probably o-ring related.

it appears that there are 2 different leaks:

the major one appears on the passenger side dripping off the advance cover. it looks like it could be either the encoder sensor cover, the head locking screw or the advance cover that are leaking. since i can't see anything wet from above, i'm guessing it is probably not the encoder sensor cover. is there anything else on the passenger side of the ip that might leak?

the minor one seems to be some weeping at the base of a fuel line connector on the ip. is there any reason not to loosen and re-tighten these fuel line connectors? and what should the torque be?

thanks,

peyton
 

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first, an apology. in a previous message, i miscalled the ip fuel line connectors by the name "delivery valves". sorry for any confusion that resulted from that.

okdually, in reviewing what i saw today, i believe the minor weeping described below could be the result of a leak in the large fsol o-rings. as i read it, in order to replace the 2 big o-rings on the fsol, it is necessary to remove it from the ip. can i do this without removing the ip from the engine? are those o-rings available in a kit for the ds4 or do i just take the old ones to autozone and search the dorman bin? altho i have a pdf of the ds4 manual i hope to only replace o-rings where necessary and not go deeper. thanks.

i cleaned and checked the injection lines for bad threads, obvious cracks, deep scratches, etc and found nothing out of the ordinary. it occured to me that it shouldn't hurt anything to turn the lift pump on with the injector lines removed and so i did. this pressurized the the ip causing the leaking described below but, to my surprise, nothing dribbled from the fuel line connectors. i removed the rubber boot and with the lift pump turned on there was no visible leakage at the terminals. so i'm left with the conclusion that the injector lines are not the source of the leaks i've been experiencing and that the leaks are probably o-ring related.

it appears that there are 2 different leaks:

the major one appears on the passenger side dripping off the advance cover. it looks like it could be either the encoder sensor cover, the head locking screw or the advance cover that are leaking. since i can't see anything wet from above, i'm guessing it is probably not the encoder sensor cover. is there anything else on the passenger side of the ip that might leak?

the minor one seems to be some weeping at the base of a fuel line connector on the ip. is there any reason not to loosen and re-tighten these fuel line connectors? and what should the torque be?

thanks,

peyton
The FSOL can be pulled with the IP in place. The two orings can be sourced through your local autoparts store. Just make sure they are fuel-rated orings.
You can also source them at any authorized Stanadyne repair shop.

The Manual I posted in post #27 can show you the removal and reinstall procedures for the FSOL.
 
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