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Hi All,


JC Whitney and others make a relay kit that keeps low beams on with the high beams. Several different kits based on yellow/purple or green/tan wiring. My 2004 is green/yellow. Which one is right? Is there someone else that makes an economical relay kit? I don't need all the harness for brighter lights. Just want all four on at the same time.


Thanks,
 

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Just put this one on a 2004:
http://www.painlesswiring.com/relayheadlight.htm
#30822 - For 2003 GM fullsize trucks and SUVs (NO KITS FOR OTHER OEM BRANDS AVAILABLE)

Since the 4-headlight system was introduced in 1988 on GM pickups and Suburbans, owners of these vehicles have wondered why their low beams go off when the high beams are turned on? No good reason we can think of. These kits will increase the intensity and improve the spread pattern by keeping all four lights on when in high beam mode.


Around $35
 

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I have the painless wiring kit pictured above. It works great, and they have a part number for the different years of vehicles. Either call them and get a specific part number or call JCWhitney/Jegs/Summit. They should be able to help you.


I also changed my lights to super blue/white lights. They have blue glass, but not blue lights (like street cars). It really improved my night time vision. With my brights on (with dims) and my off road lights on, I can see all kinds of junk!Edited by: MacGordon
 

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I made up my own relay configuration for the '02 I had but noticed the wiring was a little different on the my '03 so I didn't pursue it any further.


I really liked having all four lights on at the same time as there are so many deer lurking in the ditches in the fall/winter and it's nice to see them before they decide to go suicidal.


I get a lot of people flashing their brights at me when driving with just the low beams and it's great to flip the brights on to show them it's just on dim. Wait until they get an eyefull with all four.
 

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TXdoc, was the kit easy to install?


I looks straight foward.
 

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NoWake200 said:
TXdoc, was the kit easy to install?


I looks straight foward.
If I did it....Yes!
I am not a jet engine mechanic. I have done around 10, now. It takes about 15 minutes at a casual pace. Direction sheet that comes with it is clear and has pics. (let me know and I will scan and email it to you) You need a socket set, a pair of Channel Locks or crimping tool. You release the driver's side headlamp assembly, piggyback one wire to the low beam and one to the high, you have a ground wire, a hot for the relay and mount the relay.
 

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I have been thinking about all this and it seems to me that you could accomplish the same thing with just a diode. You would connect the diode from the high beam hot to the low beam hot, taking into account polarity. I have not looked into the requirements for the diode but I intend to the first time I have my truck down for maintenance. If someone gets really ambitious and wants to measure the current draw on the low beam headlights, being sure that you are measuring the total current for BOTH bulbs and verify that one side of the bulb is always grounded (can’t always be sure with the computer controlling everything) they could get it done before me.

I did a similar thing back in the ‘60s with the parking lights on my Nova. I wired a diode from the headlights to the parking lights. It worked like a champ. At the time, most people were wiring the taillights to the parking lights. It worked but used a lot of wire.
 

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TXdoc....if you could also email me the directions...also were did you get it and a part number would be great! thank you for your time. I will PM my email.
 

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Why not use the factory relays and just put the diode in at the BMC, between the control leads for the high and low beam relays? That way there should be no problem with power as you're turning them on the factory way, using the factory fuses and relays. My only concern is the size of the ground wire on the headlights- hopefully this wouldn't overload that.
 

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That is a very good idea! I will have to look into the location and type of relays used for the high and low beams.
 

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kennedy has a great harness with seperate relays works great and is a easy install........and its like looking into the sun


The HB kit is designed to get the maximum voltage possible to the headlamps while relieving the strain on the headlight switch, and undersized factory wiring. The result is much whiter brighter lights increasing visibility by putting more light on the road in front of you. There are currently two kits available. The first fits most any vehicle using 9005 and 9006 lamps. This includes most GM 4 lamp composites from 1990 on. There are also kits for older vehicles with H4 (2 and 3 pin push on spade connector) lamps. This covers vehicles with the old sealed beam glass lamps all the way back!

Relays are sealed from the elements to provide a long, reliable service life. Power is taken from the alternator stud providing highest system voltage, AND a corrosion free connection. This also removes the headlamp load from the existing alternator to battery charge wire. Four lamp high beams is made possible through a diode that is plugged into a connector, conveniently located in the harness. Simply remove it to disable this feature if desired. These kits work independently of any plow lights etc as the relays are trigged when the OE lighting harness is activated.

I run Phillips Rally 70w low and 100 w high clear halogen bulbs in the 9005/6 applications. These are straight up, pure white high power bulbs. No "fuzzy math" (55= 100 like PIAA says) here, just excelent performance. These work very well, but are not D.O.T. approved. I believe the bulbs combined with the harness provide a great 1-2 punch and is the best bang for the buck!

The HB kit is designed to get the maximum voltage possible to the headlamps while relieving the strain on the headlight switch, and undersized factory wiring. The result is much whiter brighter lights increasing visibility by putting more light on the road in front of you.

Relays are sealed from the elements to provide a long, reliable service life. Power is taken from the alternator stud providing highest system voltage, AND a corrosion free connection.

Four lamp high beams is made possible through a diode that is plugged into a connector, conveniently located in the harness. Simply remove it to disable this feature.

HB kit cost is $135 and bulbs are $17.50ea. S&H add $7 via US mail Priority Service.



Installation Instructions

Headlight Booster FAQ



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Item Name: Deluxe Headlight Booster kit with bulbs
Category: Truck Accessories
Sub-Category: Headlight Booster
Price: $205.00
This is the complete kit with harness and Phillips "Premium" series std wattage bulbs. These DOT legal bulbs provide 30% more light on the road than std. bulbs.

The HB kit is designed to get the maximum voltage possible to the headlamps while relieving the strain on the headlight switch, and undersized factory wiring. The result is much whiter brighter lights increasing visibility by putting more light on the road in front of you. There are currently two kits available. The first fits most any vehicle using 9005 and 9006 lamps. This includes most GM 4 lamp composites from 1990 on. There are also kits for older vehicles with H4 (2 and 3 pin push on spade connector) lamps. This covers vehicles with the old sealed beam glass lamps all the way back!

Please specify vehicle when ordering.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Edited by: sdaver
 

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3 diodes - 15 cents - did mine this weekend- on high beam have high beams, low beams , fog lights and (just for looks) DRLS. Seems to work good and looks plenty bright to me. Plus - with the flip of an optional toggle switch it can all be normal for inspections or dealer service. Again this was done by just adding the diodes at the Bcm from the high beam control lead ( which feeds the relay under the hood) to the respective leads for the low, fog and drl relay control leads. If you want the switch add it between the high beam lead and the diodes.
 

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Army, Please explain in more detail. I'd like to do that but haven't gotten past putting in the fuse for the trailer harness.
 

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aztjc,
I hooked up the ground jumper wire to D3 & it worked ok. The only problem I see with it is your hi beam indicator is lit all the time, it doesn't go off when you go to low beams only.
 

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Keep in mind this is on a 2003 GMC - other years may be different, even 2003 chevrolet may be differant although I would think it would be the same. For all lights on with high beams:


The bcm is under the steering column, I had to remove the dash panel to get to it. There are 3 larger 24 or so pin connectors on it. The one I am referring to is the 24 pin on the left side.


This connector has 2 rows of 12 pins, one above the other. There are pin numbers associated with them but they were hard to read so I'll explain it like this:


Top row: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 -we'll call T


Bottom row: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 -we'll call B


T1 is black-white and is High beam control- tap into this and run to a spst (2 terminal) switch, if you are going to use a switch to disable this mod. On the other side of the switch solder 3 diodes with the band ends towards the switch. I used 1n4005 diodes. Now for each of the other ends of the diodes you will solder a short length of wire on and tap into these leads as follows:


T4- is green black and is DRL control


B4- is pink and is low beam control


B5- green white and is fog lamp control


When you're done make sure to insulate each of these ends of the diodes and wires from each other and everything else. Start the truck,turn the headlights on if it's not dark, and with you're new switch off everything should work as before, or as normal. Turn the switch on and with you're high low beam lever in the low position you're low beams and fog lamps should work as normal. Flip to high beam and everything should come on. All we're really doing here is operating the relays under the hood that turn these lamps on normally. There should be no problem with power as they are still getting power the factory way. My only concern is the grounds on the headlamps, I'm hoping they don't run too warm running both lamps at once, and I don't know if both lamps are grounded together or if they have individual grounds. I may have to upgrade the grounds if they give trouble. Hope this is somewhat understandable!



Further note- if you are testing with the ignition switch off the DRLs will not come on at all, that's why I said start you're truck in the testing. If you don't want to install a switch to bypass this mod just connect the band ends of the diodes directly to the T1 black white wire. Edited by: army
 

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Thanks for the description of the BCM and wiring. Like you mentioned, I believe this is exclusive to '03s only.


Unless I'm missing something, don't you want the "band ends" away from the switch? This would prevent the low beams from turning on the high beams. Not vice versa.
 

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Minn-kota, I think you're thinking we are working with +12 volts through the diodes. Actually it's a ground coming from the high beam lead that we are connecting to the others, therefore the diode is reversed.
 

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Yep, that was exactly what I was thinking. I wasn't positive how the BCM was controlling the lights. Thought it was outputting a signal, not grounding the circuit. gotcha.
 
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