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Discussion Starter #1
I am just getting ready to put the oil pan back on 2004 motor. Since it is a used motor (new to me) my buddy suggested I retorque all main and rod bearings before reinstalling it. Unfortunately, I'm using a 1993 shop manual for this 2004 Humvee pull. All the inner bolts didn't budge, nor the front or rear main outers, however the outers on 2,3,4 turned significantly as I torqued them to 100 ft lbs. I knew something was wrong, and should have known better for these 13 MM bolt heads. What should I do release the torque and what torque should I use? Thanks, scared to death I screwed up bad!:eek:
 

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To ease your mind try finding replacement bolts or use arp main studs.The arp studs really strengthen the lower end.The outer 10mm bolts don’t require a whole lot of torque unlike the inners.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Engine assembly from 1999 manual, should be the same as your 2004.
You really should look up info or ask before guessing.
Those outer main bolts are particularly troublesome.


https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/a...e-first-1999-sec-6-6.5l-engine-mechanical.pdf
Unfortunately kind of off due to the Covid 19 concerns.I just never considered that the torques would be that much different, and with other things on my mind, I didn't think critically till I had already moved one of the bolts significantly. Yeah stupid me I didn't come back to reality till I had turned several and realized how far I was going and that the bolt heads didn't really look like they should be high torque. I went back in 20 min later and was able to relieve the torque on them. :eek:wned:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
To ease your mind try finding replacement bolts or use arp main studs.The arp studs really strengthen the lower end.The outer 10mm bolts don’t require a whole lot of torque unlike the inners.
Okay, a couple of questions. I didn't see anywhere, (and I don't have the specific year Humvee manual) if these out side bolts (6 or them)are TTY type bolts. The torques I found on google showed both wet and dry torques (not sure the diff) and whether the bolts were 10mm or 12 mm.
They did take a 13mm socket, and the head had a large skirt.

The large bolts didn't budge. Since I was able to loosen the bolts I tightened, I was going to just torque them to 48 foot lbs (48 for 10mm bolts and 55 for 12mm) and give them the 1/4 turn the torque sheet called for, unless someone gives me a better direction. My thinking is that since the inner bolts remain solid, I won't mess with them at all. I just wish I hadn't taken my buddy's advice.

I am listening and brain is engaged after this weekend, so if you have more words of wisdom I am listening. Thanks everyone.
 

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in the 99 manual, the 12mm (18mm head) inner bolts all end up at #55 + 90'. The outer 12mm (18mm head caps #1 and #5) then go to #48 + 90'.
The outer 10mm (13mm head) go to #30

There is a detail on torque sequence and setting the thrust bearing but since yours were never off you should not need to do that. Also all these torque specs are assuming oil as lube.

I had your same question about them being tty bolts and whether they need replacing being that they are being "reused" but good luck finding them. There were no horror stories I could find so I am just going to treat them like a normal bolt. If I had time and dough I would definitely get the stud kit. ESPECIALLY if the webbing on your block is crack free.

Anyhow, being that you did not put things under a ton of stress (ran the motor, heat cycles, etc) you will probably be ok with going back to proper spec. Maybe just get some brakekleen and inspect all the caps and block for cracks one more time around the small bolt locations.

Good luck!
 
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Okay, a couple of questions. I didn't see anywhere, (and I don't have the specific year Humvee manual) if these out side bolts (6 or them)are TTY type bolts. The torques I found on google showed both wet and dry torques (not sure the diff) and whether the bolts were 10mm or 12 mm.
They did take a 13mm socket, and the head had a large skirt.

The large bolts didn't budge. Since I was able to loosen the bolts I tightened, I was going to just torque them to 48 foot lbs (48 for 10mm bolts and 55 for 12mm) and give them the 1/4 turn the torque sheet called for, unless someone gives me a better direction. My thinking is that since the inner bolts remain solid, I won't mess with them at all. I just wish I hadn't taken my buddy's advice.

I am listening and brain is engaged after this weekend, so if you have more words of wisdom I am listening. Thanks everyone.
What you could do is buy the DSG main stud kit with two braces.They are in Saskatoon Canada under DSG services I think but a google search will tell you more.Its not overly expensive.It just contains 6 arp outer studs for the mains 2,3 and 4.Comes with nuts and hardened washers.I put a kit in my 97 506 engine but it had 12mm main bolts all throughout.They will have the 12mm and 10mm to choose from.I hope this helps.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
What you could do is buy the DSG main stud kit with two braces.They are in Saskatoon Canada under DSG services I think but a google search will tell you more.Its not overly expensive.It just contains 6 arp outer studs for the mains 2,3 and 4.Comes with nuts and hardened washers.I put a kit in my 97 506 engine but it had 12mm main bolts all throughout.They will have the 12mm and 10mm to choose from.I hope this helps.
Hey Thanks Dieselolds, shouldn't be any need to mess with the inners, and if this kit only comes with the 6 outers that would be sweet. I'll check it out and let you know:)
 

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Hey Thanks Dieselolds, shouldn't be any need to mess with the inners, and if this kit only comes with the 6 outers that would be sweet. I'll check it out and let you know:)
No problem.It’s only for the outer section for 2,3 and 4 so you’ll be in good shape when you put that kit in.Make sure you get the 10mm kit.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
I cannot see any cracks and have retorqued the 10mm bolts to 30 foot lbs. Is it really necessary for anything else? What about thread locker?
 

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I cannot see any cracks and have retorqued the 10mm bolts to 30 foot lbs. Is it really necessary for anything else? What about thread locker?



No threadlocker. Since they may be "reused" tty bolts personally I used #35 for spits and giggles. Other than that... Maybe say a prayer and sacrafice something you love to the god of automobiles.... That s all I know. As there are no cracks, take the time to swap out the balancer with a new one if it is at all old.



Maybe others will add to this but good luck!
 
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It's not just studs it's the girdle kit.

This. If you didn't notice that this is definitely a decent deal especially if you have contemplating fabricating your own girdles.
 
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I fabbed my own girdles for my own engines. Using all 5 mains and 3/8th steel. Occasionally I sell a set.

However...

I recently installed the dsg kit for a custy that didnt want to fork out the $ for mine. The kit installs nicely. Goes much faster vs making your own. The only real drawback in my opinion is it using 3 out of 5 mains. And they're 1/4 steel of unknown grade.

I did get the arp main stud sizing before I installed them. I can dig the info up. However they were the 12mm outers iirc.

...anyway... it's a good kit and worth the $ kinda sorta... the only issue I had is they only come with 6 studs vs an entire stud kit. :confuzeld:
 
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Discussion Starter #17
No threadlocker. Since they may be "reused" tty bolts personally I used #35 for spits and giggles. Other than that... Maybe say a prayer and sacrafice something you love to the god of automobiles.... That s all I know. As there are no cracks, take the time to swap out the balancer with a new one if it is at all old.



Maybe others will add to this but good luck!
Jeez, next time I'll mortgage the house and buy a new engine, but still trying to think of something sacrificial:thumb:. It looks like I may have to buy a good luck kit---------------------------In the form of a girdle:helmet:
 

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I fabbed my own girdles for my own engines. Using all 5 mains and 3/8th steel. Occasionally I sell a set.

However...

I recently installed the dsg kit for a custy that didnt want to fork out the $ for mine. The kit installs nicely. Goes much faster vs making your own. The only real drawback in my opinion is it using 3 out of 5 mains. And they're 1/4 steel of unknown grade.

I did get the arp main stud sizing before I installed them. I can dig the info up. However they were the 12mm outers iirc.

...anyway... it's a good kit and worth the $ kinda sorta... the only issue I had is they only come with 6 studs vs an entire stud kit. :confuzeld:

Thanks for chiming in. Same question as above, what does that girdle kit do for me? And just for my sanity can you tell me if the bolt I have in the pictures is actually the 10mm outer? Also having installed these, what does the stud torque call for?
 

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Ok, I just see 6 studs, and a couple pieces of steel. Can you explain what a girdle kit does? Thanks
The girdle gives extra strength to the mains/lower end and knocks out any harmonics.

6.5L blocks tend to crack because of the harmonics..
 
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