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Discussion Starter #1
I need help. My K3500 dually is down. I have had it for 2 months. It always seemed to smoke a lot more than my other trucks I have had. It seemed to loose power one night. Next morning it sounded like the exhaust manifold was blown. I drove it to find someone to look at it. Not smart. Came home after about 40 miles. Running rough with a knock (light sound) I drove slow. I fixed right side exhaust maniforld. Truck still was running with same knock and engine timing valvle slapt or something. The knock was a timing issue. So, I replace the timing chain. The result was a little less knock but a lot of smoke. It will bog and pour out smoke. I replaced the crank position sensor. I changed the timing offset gizmo on the pass side of the IP ( It was from an old IP _ I know it was a working pull from my 96) Truck is smoking.

My question:
I had to pull the IP back when I did the T Chain. I know that I rotated both the crank and the cam (together) when I turned the cam nut. I turned it back about what I thought it was but I think I went back(clockwise)too far. When this movement occurred it did not affect valve timing as the chain was intact but the IP was loose.
Could I have thrown my IP timing out of whack in the timing chain replacement?

I thought the IP would adjust itself.

CODES PO216
236
1214

Smoking like a beast - NOW WHITE SMOKE rattles and stalls. I can warm it up. It will rev up some of the time but other times will bog.

Just checked oil and it was very high on the dipstick. I run the truck in the recommended zone. I am wondering what else is in under the oil pushing it up on the stick. Nothing but oil show on the stick but it is way up halfway on the stick.


What should I do? I just have a code reader. I just want to get it somewhere to be fixed. Should I try turning the IP? Would that help?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks racer. I am afraid that I have water in the pan. I noticed a froth at the top of the filler ring. Also the level of the oil on the dipstick is very high. Only oil is visible on the stick.
 

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Pull the oil pan plug-water will come out first if its in there since oil floats on water.
Might have poped a head gasket or something cracked,block/heads.
Water/antifreeze makes white smoke also.
Codes are related to your mechanical IP swap except the 0236 which is boost fault.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
1. Describe the problem you are having in detail:



I need help. My K3500 dually is down. I have had it for 2 months. It always seemed to smoke a lot more than my other trucks I have had. It seemed to loose power one night. Next morning it sounded like the exhaust manifold was blown. I drove it to find someone to look at it. Not smart. Came home after about 40 miles. Running rough with a knock (light sound) I drove slow. I fixed right side exhaust maniforld. Truck still was running with same knock and engine timing valvle slapt or something. The knock was a timing issue. So, I replace the timing chain. The result was a little less knock but a lot of smoke. It will bog and pour out smoke. I replaced the crank position sensor. I changed the timing offset gizmo on the pass side of the IP ( It was from an old IP _ I know it was a working pull from my 96) Truck is smoking.

My question:
I had to pull the IP back when I did the T Chain. I know that I rotated both the crank and the cam (together) when I turned the cam nut. I turned it back about what I thought it was but I think I went back(clockwise)too far. When this movement occurred it did not affect valve timing as the chain was intact but the IP was loose.
Could I have thrown my IP timing out of whack in the timing chain replacement?

I thought the IP would adjust itself.

CODES PO216
236
1214

Smoking like a beast - NOW WHITE SMOKE rattles and stalls. I can warm it up. It will rev up some of the time but other times will bog.

What should I do? I just have a code reader. I just want to get it somewhere to be fixed. Should I try turning the IP?



OIL IS HIGH ON THE DIPSTICK AND EVEN LEAKING OR SPILLINg OVER IN THE FRONT ONTO THE PULLEYS. i CANNOT SEE THE SOURCE OF THE LEAKS AS i CANNOT KEEP IT IDLING NUW.




fROTH IS SHOWING UP ON THE FILLER CAP AND RING.





wATER IN THE OIL.



............................................................
2. Year of truck/engine 1999.

3. Odometer reading (indicate miles or kilometers).133k

4. Indicate the model number on the Injection pump (starts DS4 or DB2......).ds4

5. Indicate if you know if it’s a 1500, 2500, 2500HD, 3500, 3500HD.
3500hd

6. Do you have an EGR on the engine? (An F or an S engine code 8th VIN digit)NOT SURE WILL CHECK


7. Air Filter condition (visual check).GOOD

8. Fuel filter condition (freshly changed, mileage since changed).OK

9. Location of PMD/FSD? (ex. on pump/remote over intake, behind bumper).ON COOLER OVER PLENUM.

9a. If remote mounted, describe wiring harness (homemade or purchased from which vendor).

9b. Indicate the location and condition of the FSD/IP grounding wire. ORIGINAL LOCAED ON PUMP

10. Outside Temperature (C or F). __50f___ °

11. Service Engine Light while running?- on/off/intermittent INTERMITTENT - i AM CLEARING


11a. Service Engine light does glow during start/cranking/bulb check: Yes/No no

12.Have you scanned for engine codes? Yes/No yse

12a. List exact results on engine codes.
CODES PO216
236
1214

13. Condition of Battery terminals (removed, cleaned and tightened).GOOD

14. Known condition and age of Batteries. 2 YR

14a. Are batteries a matched set of same age? YES

15. Condition of Major Grounds (removed, cleaned and tightened) GOOD VISUAL

16. Does engine crank, or "turn over"? YES

16a. Does engine start and run? YES
17. If engine does not start- Crack injector line: do you have fuel? Yes/No
18. Does your Wait To Start light come on?yes
18a.Number of seconds WTS light is lit. 3 OR 4
19. Engine Cranking speed (if you have an accurate tachometer). GOOD

20. Are you experiencing Stalling? YES
20a. Describe the event (upon startup only, down the road, hit a bump, etc...) WHITE SMOKE
20b. Do you notice loss of dash or instruments? NO
21. Check turbo inlet and air filter for obstructions. OK
22. In a no-hot start, pour a bottle of room-temp water on the injection pump. Does it start now?
23. Lift pump test - Describe results.

24. Upon cold start, does the radiator hose get hard quickly? Yes/No
25. Upon cold start, do you have excessive white smoke? Yes/No YES
26. Do you have excessive cranking time before the engine starts? Yes/No YES
27. Have you used the block heater? Does it affect engine starting? (only try for starting problems). NO
28. Are all glow plugs in proper working order? YES

29. During hard acceleration, do you have excessive black smoke? Yes/No I USED TO NOT NOW
30. Do you have any unusual exhaust smoke issues? YES
31. Turbo check out - Pass/Fail GOOD
32. Indicate fuel that you are using: Bio-Diesel, #2 Diesel, SVO/WVO, other DIESEL
32a. If running Veggie Oil fuel setup, indicate details of your conversion (homemade or packaged system).
33. Are you using any fuel additives? If so, please list.
34. Upon unscrewing fuel cap, do you have a large vacuum formed in the tank? Yes/No YES
35. Do you have any service history available that might pertain to the problem you are having? NO
36. Please indicate any modifications to the vehicle that might help us diagnose better. cps SENSOR, SIDE OF IP STEPPER MOTOR, EXHAUST GASKET, PMD ON A COOLER GRAY NEW KIND
 

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Sorry I carried a thought from another thread over abot the IP or you edited your signature.

P0216 injection pump timing control
P0236 turbo charger boost system
P1214 injection pump timing offset

When you changed the timing chain you altered the electronic IP's timing and it needs to be reset properly.Search TDCO or look in the faq.
Also when you changed the timing chain you could have depeloped a leak from the water pump into the crankcase or you have a blown head gasket or the like.Causes a lot of white smoke.
Runnig with water in the oil eats bearings so you could have developed a serious problem in the bottom end-hope not.
Pull the glow plugs for compression test or just to determine which cylinder has the water leak.The glow plug with all the carbon washed off is the cylider in trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
i HAVE A QUESTION. iT MAY SEEM DUMB. bUT HERE GOES:

When I replaced the timing chain, could I have compromised one of the ports, inlet or outlet, for the water-pumo? You know the gasket where the where the water-pump and timing chain cover gasket are about 1/2 inch apart. Could this be the reason for the water? Can water introduced into the oil make it to the tailpipe?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That is what I thought. I will have to check out the smell and see if there is water in the smoke tomorrow. Thanks. I will also check the oilpan contents.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Yep the smoke is fuel.

I bet the water is from my work on the timing chain (gasket).

I will look for the TDCO.

Is that the clear codes and turn on key, foot to floor for 45 secs or 1 min then off 30 sec to 1 min? If so I did it several times.

I feel a little less in distress as I think I can figure what probably happened.

I HAVE A QUESTION:
DS4 - I have done several IP changes. I thought they adjusted themselves. Could I be so far out of whack that it can't readjust?
 

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The KOKO will adjust the timing but without a OBDII scanner you have no way of knowing where it is adjusted to for base timing.
The TDCO needs to be read with a scanner and then the pump physicaly needs to be moved or with Tech 2 the throttle moved to get the value desired.
If you are way too far out of spec with base timing the ecm can't compensate enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
racer
I changed my signature. My bad. Had you thinking about the old green machine (totaled by a lil ol lady - should have seen her car - she is OK and all is OK). I now drive the black truck we all called 'ol smokey' It was the best running one I ever had until now. It will be back soon. Getting a OBDII scanner from odb-2.com (I think). I'll be able to see the timing info and reset it as needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Thanks racer at least I know I am barking up the right tree. So I have to physically turn the pump - Good information. I am thinking that white smoke is retarded and I have to turn the pump toward the driver's side like the mechanical pumps. (I will wait for the scanner to show me how far out I am)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Scanner - How to use

I have the scanner being rushed out to me for the weekend. I will dump the oil and fix that dilemma. When I get the software and plug it in, I know I am looking for certain values and I am checking out the info on here. Funny, I looked it up and found your thread. Anyway, I have to take a reading - I am new to this even though I have played with these trucks forever.

You said the directions are not so good so I am looking for whatever info I can get in order to prepare myself for this weekend. Any help is appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks Racer

Thank you. Now I need to find the TDCO recommended setting and what reading or offset reflects advanced or retarded. Then I can rotate the IP.

Does this Car Code do the TDC relearn? So the KOKO is not needed?
 
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