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Ok, I am a rookie here but I thought maybe I could get a few opinions?
I am very happy with my 02' juiced with attitude and now want to lower my EGT's. I basically run on level 2 and drag a 10K LB. toy box up and down the grades of Arizona. I am able to keep the EGT's below 1250 F by monitoring it closely and adjusting gear and rpm. I refuse to let it go over 1250F. I would like to be well below and not have to worry about it.
I am looking at some of the exhaust systems on the market and thought I would ask for opinions.
1.Will a 4" MBRP w\front pipe reduce my EGT's significantly.
2.Would the Banks perform better?
3.Should I go for the 5"?
4.Does anyone know how large of spare I can stuff in with the 4" system?
I have a 315\75R-17 on an H2 wheel hanging under there now, Man I hate giving that up.
5.How about size of spare on the 5" system?
6.How effective is the muffler delete on the stock system at reducing EGT's?
Thanks in advance for your input.
 

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I don't think 5" will get you any better results than a 4" system. Good luck keeping it below 1250°F. Mine would fly past that when it was stock. I pegged my 1500° Gauge pulling a trailer when it was stock. The only way to achieve those numbers and be able to use the hp is to change the windmill - or add one.
 

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Get a boost stick!!!!!!!
 

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I second the Boost Stick, after the exhuast. The cat delete will help alot. Between the cat, 4" and BS, I bet you'll drop 150deg, maybe more.
 

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I haul through AZ with more weight than you. I have the same year - '02. I have a 4" exhaust, and it did help about 150 degrees. I have to watch mine like a hawk, though. I have a Kennedy system, but there are thers on the market.
 

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best bang for the buck would be a big head wastegate actuator (or equivalent) you should not have a cat on truck from factory,so u should see some gain from just a cat back or even just a muffler delete but running just a juice box there is no benefit to running 5" exhaust just looks.

Goodluck
Caleb
 

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I don't think 5" will get you any better results than a 4" system. Good luck keeping it below 1250°F. Mine would fly past that when it was stock. I pegged my 1500° Gauge pulling a trailer when it was stock. The only way to achieve those numbers and be able to use the hp is to change the windmill - or add one.
Hey man, want a test drive?

Wait, I forgot, you already had it!:ro)
 

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I second the Boost Stick, after the exhuast. The cat delete will help alot. Between the cat, 4" and BS, I bet you'll drop 150deg, maybe more.
I don't recall the '02's having a CAT. Maybe the CA models???
 

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Boost stick and 4" Exhaust has done for my truck than anything I have done
 

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I don't recall the '02's having a CAT. Maybe the CA models???
:exactly: what he said^
2002 lb7 = no boost stick, you need a wastegate actuator to get more boost
 

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If your trying to reduce EGT you need to free up the exhaust and raise the boost. On your model you can raise the boost with any one of many devices. You can build a boost increasing device for about $4.00 from the hardware store, do a search and you will find plenty of discussions about it. Pretty much all the exhaust kits on the market will give you the same drop in EGT so pick the one you like the sound of and the looks of. Be careful of getting one that is loud or a deep rumble as when you tow it will drive most people nuts. You can see our systems on oour web-site.
 

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4" Head pipe (cat delete) to go with that Banks moster exhaust and a Boost stick and a EGR blocker kit from Kennedy Diesel. The Banks Head pipe was an exact match on my truck. Look in your glove compartment on the parts list sticker and make sure that "FE9" is on that sticker and you should not ever have any codes.

Shawn
 

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The boost stick is a great product but no matter how great itis it will not work on WTHunters 2002 D-max.
 

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BS, twin turbo, w/m injection

If your trying to reduce EGT you need to free up the exhaust and raise the boost. On your model you can raise the boost with any one of many devices. You can build a boost increasing device for about $4.00 from the hardware store, do a search and you will find plenty of discussions about it.
$8.62 for me at Menards. :) For parts breakdown, and picture of unassembled parts, see post #19 here:
http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?p=839985&posted=1#post839985

Have not installed mine yet, but plan to when I get back to IL (in FL now).

The boost stick is a great product but no matter how great itis it will not work on WTHunters 2002 D-max.
Please elaborate....? :confused:

Ok, I am a rookie here but I thought maybe I could get a few opinions?
From my research here on this site, the two BIG sources of advanced EGT reductions are: 1) Larger/twin turbos-- too expensive! 2) Water/methanol injection-- fairly expensive, and impractical because (for towing, in mountainous areas) you will be constantly refilling the water/methanol (it only gets used when above a certain boost threshold, i.e. 20 PSI, but when it IS being used it gets sucked up at a rate of about a gallon per every 5 minutes, which will empty an 8 gallon tank in short order in AZ, UT, CO,...etc.). And THEN what... where do you get more methanol on the road? And do you want to pay for distilled water on the road? I thought about a larger tank, but now it's taking up bed space. --Paul.
 

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Paul

Done differently, you can greatly reduce consumption, 50-75% using a logic circuit. If you link spray to EGT for example, spraying only when boost is above 15 psi AND egt is over 1400. Also, a little can go a long way, reducing nozzle sizes, etc.

Do you still have a cat?
 

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Paul

Done differently, you can greatly reduce consumption, 50-75% using a logic circuit. If you link spray to EGT for example, spraying only when boost is above 15 psi AND egt is over 1400. Also, a little can go a long way, reducing nozzle sizes, etc.

Do you still have a cat?
Hi Killerbee: No CAT-- didn't come with one. I was aware of smaller nozzle-- but the smaller you go the less effective too. I was also aware of boost logic (i.e. doesn't come on till 20PSI for example)... the problem is that when towing out WEST I can frequently be above 20PSI in mountainous or even hilly terrain... there has been plenty of times when I have been towing for hours and spent 1/4 to 1/3 of my time ABOVE 20PSI, which can really chew up the w/m. I was NOT aware of EGT logic... but I believe the same principle applies as with boost logic. I try to keep my sustained EGTs around 1300... and it can stay up around that range for loooong periods of time, esp up slopes and in headwinds.

For use at the track, and for some people who tow lighter, or in mostly flat terrain, water/methanol might be an efficient solution. But I'm not convinced it would be wise for me, towing 21k GCW and heading out to CO, UT, AZ, MT, CA every year for 1 mo on vacation. However, I am very open to being corrected by those of different opinion and experience. --Paul.
 
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