Ok so I was driving to work this morning and 15 minutes into my ride the check guage light came on, I checked the guages they seemed fine. But not even a half mile later, the truck shut off and started blowing oil everywhere. I luckily got her to the brakedown lane. I cant see where the oil is coming from(becouse it is all over the drivers side compartment. But I think it is coming from somewhere in the front. While i was under there i also noticed a few drops of antifreeze on the skid plate. I tried starting her again(to see if I can see where she was leaking from) and she was running ruff(like i only had 5 cylinders). I imediatly shut it down. then when the tow truck came, I asked him to see if he can start it for a second while I look under the hood. It wouldnt even turn over for him. He said it might be an oil sensor preventing starter from working. Can anyone Tell me what they think happened? Could this be a head gasket? Blown rod? Or did i blow the motor all-together? Worst time for me. I just paid my daughters surgery bill and dont have enuph money for a pack of smokes.:help: I love my blazer and dont want to get rid of her. but I might have to now. -:t
Help! Oil everywhere-Truck dead
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HI I sounds as if one of the oil cooler lines broke this happened to one of my friends on his truck, it was the at the front were the aluminum lines run in front of the Rad. By the time the check engine light came on it had pumped all the oil out and siezed the engine. This would be a good place to start looking.
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Agreed, that much oil everywhere sounds like the oil cooler lines. When laying under the truck they come out of the block just above the oil filter, follow them from there to the front of the truck, chances are one of them blew out of the block above the filter but check them from end to end. This isn't sounding to good though.
well the verdict is in. I think you guys are right about the oil line to the cooler. I couldnt find the leak becouse of the amount of oil across the whole compartment.(and was too pissed to lay in a pool of oil) But i went to the store and bought a gallon of the cheapest oil i could find. I put it in and the truck wouldnt turn over. I tried a hundred times till the battery wire started smoking. She only turned about an 1/8th of an inch at a wack. Im sure the head gasket blew while she welded herself together. thats where the antifreeze came from. It seems that im gonna get a 100 dollar beater till cycle season. might have to leave the diesel club.-:t :cussing: I got a few leads to some diesel junkyards though. well see what happenes. If i do get rid of here I might part out some good parts, chip,turbo master,guages,downpipe,gutted intake, etc,etc. might just push her off a cliff.:knight: but Ill keep updates. :wtf1:
Sorry to hear about the engine. I lost a crank in my car once so I can feel your pain.
Does this bring up a topic of relocating the oil pressure sender to after the oil cooler lines if we know they are prone to leak or dump all the oil without the loss of pressure showing up on the dash? (besides the light) I relocated the sender on an old Pontiac once so wondering if the same works here.
I don't even know if there is a place to relocate it or even where the stock location is (I'm still searching for my first diesel) but I am just thinking about possibilities.
Good luck working things out!!
Does this bring up a topic of relocating the oil pressure sender to after the oil cooler lines if we know they are prone to leak or dump all the oil without the loss of pressure showing up on the dash? (besides the light) I relocated the sender on an old Pontiac once so wondering if the same works here.
I don't even know if there is a place to relocate it or even where the stock location is (I'm still searching for my first diesel) but I am just thinking about possibilities.
Good luck working things out!!
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i was wondering the same about putting a oil sensor on the return side oil coolant line and putting a red idiot lite on the dash or a buzzer. any one already did this? I am going to put an engine oil cooler infront of the radiator and run hydrolic fittings and lines the whole way . hope things work out ok for you.
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Did you check to make sure there's no parts outside the block? If it won't turn over it probably has a worse problem than just headgaskets...
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not if it is hydro-locked, that is what my truck did when it first blew, the #7 cylinder locked up solid, think about how little space there is in the combution chamder, put a penny in there and it will lock up a 6.5.
BUT, with there being a catastophic oil loss as described, sounds like broken rod or crank situation where a bearing seazed and killed the motor. Hate to say that, kinda leaves a big pit in your stomach.
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I always think hydrolock first, but experience has proven different to me. With the major oil loss things can't be good inside the engine anyways.
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1,224 Posts
warning buzzer
If anyone does this buzzer thing, please let us know!
SnowDrift
I like the warning buzzer idea very much (with a light). Murphy switch would be ideal, but if I was on a set of rough railroad tracks (driving slow), I'd want to have control enough to be able to drive across the tracks before the engine just shuts down on it's own. Would be cheaper to replace a trashed engine than the whole truck. No engine is going to sieze instantly after oil loss. Should have time to get over even the worst set of tracks and then shut down on my own.
If anyone does this buzzer thing, please let us know!
SnowDrift
i lost an oil line due to what looked like a kink or notch in the oil cooler line aluminum tubing. pain to change out. shops told me i must pull engine to replace them but i did a homegrown fix thats held these last 5 years so hang on to the ole girl and figure out what happened before she's put out to pasture...
Neat idea, definitely would want an override of some sort.
The Mack U models we had at a warehouse I worked at had low oil shut down. There was an override button; if you kept it pressed, it kept running. We had a driver once start leaking oil on the expressway. He didn't feel like waiting or walking so he hit the button and drove to the next exit. He put all 55 qts of oil on the ground and trashed the engine to save a little walk.
I thought our diesel mechanic was going to kill the driver...
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1,224 Posts
yup, that would have ticked me off, too if the guy was too lazy to walk! Last time I checked that was why we were given legs!Neat idea, definitely would want an override of some sort.
The Mack U models we had at a warehouse I worked at had low oil shut down. There was an override button; if you kept it pressed, it kept running. We had a driver once start leaking oil on the expressway. He didn't feel like waiting or walking so he hit the button and drove to the next exit. He put all 55 qts of oil on the ground and trashed the engine to save a little walk.
I thought our diesel mechanic was going to kill the driver...
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684 Posts
I had one rubbing the motor and wore a pin hole in it. was leaking oil pretty good! They're a b**** to change. I took the one down to a bumper to bumper auto parts (napa equiv) and had them cut out the piece and replace with hydrolic line. wish i would have taken both out and cut both centers out completely, just leaving ends. Mine need to be taken back off because they're in a bind or something making it really hard to change my oil filter! Decided next time oil change is need, i'm just going to relocate filter...
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1,224 Posts
hydraulic oil lines
Incidentally, if someone doesn't believe me, then I'll sell the hoses I have to you for real cheap - clean and new.
SnowDrift
Guys, I've heard of this being done many times and won't say that all will fail, but please consider the facts. I thought I'd do something better than factory, so I took my lines in to a hydraulic shop and had him cut the flexible centers out and replace with hydraulic hose. 3000 psi rated, double wall, etc. - NICE STUFF. The problem is that most hydraulic hose is only rated for less than 212 degrees because hydraulic oil and hydraulic components like a cooler environment than +200. I took the P/N off my new hoses and called our hose manufacturer. I learned that if the hose got over 212 deg., then it begins to turn to "goo" from the inside, out. That is the exact description given to me by the engineer at the company I called that makes this specific hose - goo. Thus, I removed the new hoses ($75-80) and decided it wasn't worth the risk to me because I can't guarantee my engine oil temps won't ever go over 212. Wasted the money, but could have cost me much more if they would have failed. Just my 2 cents.
Incidentally, if someone doesn't believe me, then I'll sell the hoses I have to you for real cheap - clean and new.
SnowDrift
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5,988 Posts
Bad thing about a diesel is, loose oil pressure and you will very shortly loose one or more bearings and sieze the bottom end. Rod bearings usually go first and can go with very little run time without oil
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