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If you unplugged the OS. With the CPS plugged in, and the engine died. That along with the code usually means the CPS is bad. I would replace it before pulling the IP and sending it back.
Bad idle, and problems starting are symptoms of bad CPS. Also After installing new one it is best to do a relearn if possible.
Yes definitely worth a try in replacing the crank sensor since it is throwing a code anyway.Good advice Tommy.👍
 

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95 chevy k1500 silverado
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
If you unplugged the OS. With the CPS plugged in, and the engine died. That along with the code usually means the CPS is bad. I would replace it before pulling the IP and sending it back.
Bad idle, and problems starting are symptoms of bad CPS. Also After installing new one it is best to do a relearn if possible.
Thanks for the info. The new sensor should be here Tuesday and fingers are crossed! If that is the issue, Does the relearn require a scanner or is there another way?
 

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When I assembled my engine back in 2015 after installing a new acdelco crank sensor and new injection pump from badger diesel all I did was a KOKO (key on/key off) procedure.I didn’t have a single problem after that.
 

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95 chevy k1500 silverado
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
So just an update. The guys from Quadstar got back with me and said the my 5288 and 5521 aren't interchangeable. He said my truck should of never had a 5288.

But right now I've got a different problem as in like [COLOR=rgb(49, 130, 233)][B][SIZE=4]dieselolds[/SIZE][/B][/COLOR] said the cps can be difficult to remove...mine was. Well still is rather I'm currently in the process of pulling the timing cover to get the old one out.
So we will see when I get off work today if I can get it out.
 

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The CPS needs to be butchered to get out.
Most of the time it will crumple as you try to pry it out.
Then you need a strong somewhat longer flathead and found a fulcrum point to pry it out.

It took me 3 days.
I had to take out the alternator, removed the bolt to P/S pump and set it aside (keep the hoses connected) so I can have a clear view of the sensor.
Then I tried to pull the cable and it crumpled.
Drill the part, still does not move but it breaks a chunk of it where I can put a flat blade screwdriver to pry it out. (on 3rd days).
 

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It’s the o-ring on the body of the sensor that is causing all the grief.They are suckers to get out.
 
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95 chevy k1500 silverado
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
The CPS needs to be butchered to get out.
Most of the time it will crumple as you try to pry it out.
Then you need a strong somewhat longer flathead and found a fulcrum point to pry it out.

It took me 3 days.
I had to take out the alternator, removed the bolt to P/S pump and set it aside (keep the hoses connected) so I can have a clear view of the sensor.
Then I tried to pull the cable and it crumpled.
Drill the part, still does not move but it breaks a chunk of it where I can put a flat blade screwdriver to pry it out. (on 3rd days).
Yeah I tried for about 5 hrs and finally just gave up. I need to replace my front main anyways and also this will give me an excuse to Check the timing chain. I should have it out today after work but my new gaskets won't get here till Thursday.
 

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So just an update. The guys from Quadstar got back with me and said the my 5288 and 5521 aren't interchangeable. He said my truck should of never had a 5288.

But right now I've got a different problem as in like [COLOR=rgb(49, 130, 233)][B][SIZE=4]dieselolds[/SIZE][/B][/COLOR] said the cps can be difficult to remove...mine was. Well still is rather I'm currently in the process of pulling the timing cover to get the old one out.
So we will see when I get off work today if I can get it out.
Here is the IP application chart to show info on the 5288 and 5521 pump and model year it went to on pg 4 and pg 5
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/a...s-master-list-information-6-5-answers-119.pdf

Removal tips for the CPS: Replacing the crankshaft position sensor
 
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95 chevy k1500 silverado
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Here is the IP application chart to show info on the 5288 and 5521 pump and model year it went to on pg 4 and pg 5
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/a...s-master-list-information-6-5-answers-119.pdf

Removal tips for the CPS: Replacing the crankshaft position sensor
Thank you!
I tried the flat bar trick on the cps with no luck as my screws kept striping out ....other than I haven't tried to pull the power steering pump to get better acess yet ....I found some longer screws today that I might try before I completely pull the timing cover. I will probably try moving the power steering pump and giving it one more go before I completely give in.

Thanks for info again!!
 

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Thank you!
I tried the flat bar trick on the cps with no luck as my screws kept striping out ....other than I haven't tried to pull the power steering pump to get better acess yet ....I found some longer screws today that I might try before I completely pull the timing cover. I will probably try moving the power steering pump and giving it one more go before I completely give in.

Thanks for info again!!
(y)
 

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95 chevy k1500 silverado
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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Incase anyone was curious here is the new sensor compared to what's left of the old!!!

Timing cover ended up coming off and after very careful 20 minutes with a hammer and punch it finally came out .....and the cover is still intact. Now is just the tedious process of old gasket removal.



Automotive tire Bumper Gas Rim Cylinder
 

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Quadstar is not all the hype you think he is.... 5288 was superseded by the 5521 which is the basic standard for quite some years. If it don't run right get rid of it. But a good 5288 will run as good as a 5521. No reputable dealer would build one to 5288 specs as newer improved parts are in the 5521.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Quadstar is not all the hype you think he is.... 5288 was superseded by the 5521 which is the basic standard for quite some years. If it don't run right get rid of it. But a good 5288 will run as good as a 5521. No reputable dealer would build one to 5288 specs as newer improved parts are in the 5521.
That's kinda what I gathered from the chart that OkDually shared was that there should be no issues between the two pumps. Now that I finally can get the new sensor in I'll see what happens when it's all back together and go from there I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Well i got everything back together. Now the truck is very hard starting and when it does start it usually dies right away. I was able to get it to idle but it was white smoke like crazy out the tail pipe. Is my timing off? Is the pump junk? Any one have any ideas?

Also I know some one mentioned the koko procedure. Will that work on obd1?
 

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Well i got everything back together. Now the truck is very hard starting and when it does start it usually dies right away. I was able to get it to idle but it was white smoke like crazy out the tail pipe. Is my timing off? Is the pump junk? Any one have any ideas?

Also I know some one mentioned the koko procedure. Will that work on obd1?
KOKO procedure is for OBD2 only.
I would grab the correct timing software and verify TDCO
 
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94 c2500 6.5, 94 k3500 6.5, 97 K3500 6.5 01 3500 Cummins 07 2500hd duramax
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New here but have had 6.5s for a while now. I've done research but am at loss.

I have a 1995 k1500 6.5
Situation started With erattic idle and then hard start when hot. So I just replaced my 5288 injection pump with a reman 5521 from Pensacola fuel injection. After purging air I finally got the truck to start and idle . The problem now is I have throttle response when in park or neutral but once in any gear there is absolutely zero throttle response. From what I have researched I should have no issue with my current prom (BXRD 1624 4850) when switching my 5288 pump to the reman 5521. Is this correct?

The codes pulled are as follows

DTC 35 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Short) -PMD or Injection Pump fault
DTC 19 - Crankshaft Position Reference Error


I will add that I have a brand new pmd from Leroy diesel with a 9 resistor

Any help would be appreciated
Thank you
don’t know if you solved your issue or not but I have had this issue twice in recent years. Both times it was the jumper harness going to the sensor
 
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