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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I have a 1998 GMC 3500, 6.5 Turbo Diesel, 4x4, Crew Cab, Dually, Long Bed, Front Disc Brakes and Rear Drum Brakes.

Note: Pictures are in order from left to right and then down, and left to right again and will then match the letter designations "A" through "K" as called out in the text.

I’m having a terrible time trying to change my front rotors. You can see why I was having such terrible pulsating when I used the brakes!(picture A)

I have the old calipers and pads off. I then removed the not sure what it’s called, but I’ll call it the extension collar (picture B). It bolts onto the rotor and also the wheel. I then removed the center nut, so far only the left side. I can’t get the right side to break loose – I’ve been soaking the right nut for a week now in Kroil, but I still can’t get it loose, can I use heat here or will it cause problems? (Picture C)

I made my own version of a wheel puller (see picture D). Using the puller, the rotor started to move (picture E), but then it bound up and it would not move any more. I took the wheel puller off, and looked around to see why the rotor stopped moving. Looking at the backside of the rotor, I could see that there was separation beginning between the axel and the spindle assembly (don’t know if that is the correct term) (see pictures F and G). There are 4 bolts on the backside of the spindle assembly (see pictures H and I), are these supposed to be removed to allow the rotor to come off completely?

How do I put the separated axel pieces back together? Is there anything special as far as tools or procedures that I need to know?

Overall, is there anything else I need to do?

Also attached is a picture of one of the two new rotors I was sold at NAPA (picture J). Are these the correct style, they don’t look like they are correct to me? The old rotors seem to have an additional large collar and lip on it (picture K) (compare picture K to picture J). I can’t see how the comparatively thin rotor section could be separated from the larger portion with the wheel studs.

Thank you for the help!


Chip
 

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beat on the back side of the rotor , its junk anyway .
 

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iirc you need to pound all the studs out to separate the 2 pieces
You are correct. The wheel bearing hub has to be removed and the the studs pressed out, the the rotors comes off the back side. That is why the new rotors have the "Square" middle is to clear the hub bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK - I beat out the studs, no problem, and the rotor separated from the wheel bearing hub. But, the wheel bearing hub will not come out all the way. I think it moved a little bit, but it is stuck again. I have tried beating on it, and I tried a cheap gear puller, and the puller broke! On the backside of the spindle you can see a bearing, and the shaft from the wheel bearing hub is pulling out of the drive shaft. Is this correct? How do I get the wheel bearing hub all the way off?

Thank you,

Chip
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Will I damage anything if I can get a strong puller on the wheel bearing hub and just crank on it?


Thanks,

Chip
 

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You have to take the wheel bearing off first (rotor will come with it) and THEN pound the studs out.. What you have is a captured rotor, some vehicle use them, some toyotas/ hondas and the chevy colorado have them too..


edit- the four bolts on the backside (near the cv shaft) are the ones your removed , then you'll have to beat on the backside of the rotor to work the wheel bearing out of the steering knuckle which will be harder since you pushed the studs out already.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi Spitz,

First - Thank you for helping me - I need my truck back on the road.

I did not take the four bolts out of the backside of the rotor.

The wheel bearing is partially out, but it is now stuck.

The backside of the wheel bearing - where I can see the front part separating from the shaft in the back - it seems like it is at a very odd angle - I don't want to damage anything, but can I use wheel type puller that has the point centered in the very center - please see picture showing where the point of the puller will be.

Thank you!

Chip
 

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The shaft really has nothing to do with the wheel bearing being stuck. You have to remove the axle nut (big one in the center). All that nut is doing is holding the axle in the wheel bearing, when you pushed on it with the puller and pushed it out thats all that has to happen with that shaft, the wheel bearing should come out and that axle shaft will just stay with the truck. The wheel bearing has a relatively close tolerance to the steering knuckle it sits in, you may have to try and pound around in a few places to get it to wiggle out straight enough so it does not bind (which sounds like is the case). They do tend to rust in there pretty good. You will accomplish nothing by putting your puller on again and pushing on that axle though, the axle can extend and contract due to the suspenion movements and your not really doing anything using it.



Also, when you do end up with the wheel bearing ready to drop out, make sure the axle shaft slides out of the wheel bearing, do not pull much on the axle as the boot is all that holds the inboard joint together, tap the shaft out of the wheel bearing with a hammer if you can.
 

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By using your homemade puller WITHOUT having removed the 4 15mm headed bolts on the inside, you have destroyed the wheel bearing assy, and by beating out the studs with the rotor still on the truck, you've also broken the WSS (Wheel speed sensor). If there is a bright side, the sensor comes with the new bearing assy.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3170084&postcount=2


The secret is that the rotor and hub bearing assembly must be removed together as a unit.

A) Take the big nut off the front axle stub

2) Remove caliper bracket and caliper (21mm or 13/16") and support from the frame so as to not damage the hose

c) Unplug the ABS wire at the frame rail, unclip the wire from the tubular control arm, and unbolt the wire bracket near the hub assy (13mm or 1/2")

IV) In your case, remove the dually hub extender

5) Remove 4 hub inboard mounting bolts (15mm, USE a quality 6 pt socket)

f) Now install your homemade puller and pull the assembly off and set the hub and rotor assembly onto two 2x4 fours to where the hub is floating in the air and the studs are pointing up
G) Drive the studs out, taking care to orient the hub so as to NOT drive a stud through the plastic WSS
viii) Turn the assembly over and lift the hub bearing out of the rotor
 

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Yes I agree remove the axle nut first. I believe i have the same rotors as you on my truck and i just did this project about 6 months ago, I pretty sure you need to remove the 4 or so bolts on the back side of your assembly and you should be able to remove it without to much of a hassle.
 

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^^ yes that is correct its all coming back to me now:rolleyes: i pounded my studs out once the rotor/hub were off of the truck. i feel your pain tho i spent 4 days on my stuff had to rebuild the calipers to, i snaped my rotor as well just not in the same location.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank You - Heymccall, Spitz, and supracnine!!!

With your directions I was finally able to get the driver’s side wheel bearing assembly off of the truck. I can’t thank you enough for your help.

I cleaned the area where the axle shaft sits, I did not use any solvents or liquids, only dry cloths. (picture attached)

Next question: Before I reassemble the new parts, do I need to do anything to the axle or the bearing or seal, like lubricate? Is there anything I need to do to the new wheel bearing assembly before I install it, like lubricate?

Side Note: I have the four book set of the official GM 1998 C/K Truck Service Manual, and all it says for what I just went through is: Remove Rotor (look in book for exact wording). Go figure.

Thank you again for helping me through this situation,


Chip
 

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A light coat of grease or neversieze on all the shiny metal where the hub assy goes back in (so it'll come apart later). The splines can be left dry.

If your not using a press to put the studs back in, be sure to recheck the adapter nuts after 100 miles or so.

The big axle nut is 150lb/ft IIRC.
 

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Side Note: I have the four book set of the official GM 1998 C/K Truck Service Manual, and all it says for what I just went through is: Remove Rotor (look in book for exact wording). Go figure.
Read the OTHER front rotor removal instructions. Your manuals should cover the easy 1500 fall off rotors AND the harder 2500/ 3500 series.
 
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