I had it towed home, finally getting a good look at the truck. Overall seems moderate/good condition, just needs a thorough cleaning. Batteries were completely dead so I've got them on the charger to see if they'll take a charge.
Previous owner took the truck on trade (as a package with 3 other vehicles) and never even tried to start it, doesn't know what's wrong with it.
One thing I did notice is that I don't believe the crank pulley is supposed to be canted at this sort of an angle. Thinking I might have a nice two-piece crankshaft (means twice the torque, right?).
Crank seems seized. Trans in neutral and yet I had no trouble removing the crank pulley bolts; I remember doing this job on my old 6.2 I had to jam the pulley to keep it from spinning. Also, the co
Drained the oil, a quart or more of water came out first so that's a lovely sign. At least it was clean and not coolant, and wasn't mixed in with the oil, so it's likely just from sitting.
Next on the list is dropping that oil pan to see what we're working with.
The last guy used rtv instead of a gasket on the oil pan. I was getting it separated when the front of the block fell to pieces right above the oil pan/behind the balancer. Pan is still in place but I have a lovely view of the timing chain and lower sprocket.
Ha, no, I don't want my first experience learning to weld being something quite this extreme.
I did get a bead on a good running 6.5 non-turbo out of a Hummer; from my research it seems the non-turbo motor is the same as my 6.5TD, and it was the turbo hummers with the center-mount turbo that have the different heads. So, other than changing all the 24v stuff to 12v, this should be an easy swap, am I right?
Picked up the motor, turns out it's actually a 660 block 6.2 with the long injectors. I'm considering swapping the heads across but also considering just bolting the ***** up and going driving.
Only real question at this point is the turbo oil feed; 660 blocks don't have the oil feed port, I believe my only option is to T off the OPS port?
What ought I do with the transfer case? Get a 10-lug drivers-side drop solid front axle somewhere and turn this into into a 4x4? I'd need to find a 4wd tailshaft for my nv4500 or go with that 4l80e. Ugh, decisions.
Both old and new engines have a single t-stat setup. The old motor has a restrictor in the bypass line; I thought this was only needed for dual stat setups.
Should I move this over to the new motor?
Also, found the cause of death of old motor (beyond crank failure): oil in water. Loooots of oil in the rad and overflow tank.
Both old and new engines have a single t-stat setup. The old motor has a restrictor in the bypass line; I thought this was only needed for dual stat setups.
Should I move this over to the new motor?
Also, found the cause of death of old motor (beyond crank failure): oil in water. Loooots of oil in the rad and overflow tank.
Nice score, a buddy of mine is giving me a 98 K3500. He just called and said the piles of dirt that were blocking it have been moved so I can swing by and get it.
Problems still:
(Brake) light always lit; goes out when I unplug the 4-wheel antilock module.
Heater blower doesn't work, fuse is good; gotta troubleshoot with the service manual.
Radio is kaput (getting a replacement single din).
Oil pressure sender or gauge is bad, going to test this tomorrow-ish.
Water leak from heater core? under cab, just above downpipe. Of course this shows up AFTER I get the fender back in. Pretty bad leak.
Clutch start switch doesn't work (starts with clutch out)
Hazard relay fell to pieces in my hand when I was trying to find out why it wasn't working.
Oil pressure sender or gauge is bad, going to test this tomorrow-ish. My sender extension is non-conductive; I needed to ground the sender. Works great now.
Problems still:
(Brake) light always lit; goes out when I unplug the 4-wheel antilock module. Heater blower doesn't work, fuse is good; gotta troubleshoot with the service manual. Heater blower and heater resister were both blown. Guessing the blower went first, shorted to ground and overheated the resister. Radio is kaput (getting a replacement single din). New radio is in. $20 Amazon special, it plays music and connects via Bluetooth, I'm happy. Water leak from heater core? under cab, just above downpipe. Of course this shows up AFTER I get the fender back in. Pretty bad leak. New heater core.
Clutch start switch doesn't work (starts with clutch out) Hazard relay fell to pieces in my hand when I was trying to find out why it wasn't working.
New hazard relay, hazards work, wheee.
Added a vinyl floor, cleaning and repainting the interior, all new speakers as the stock ones were either broken (front) or didn't exist (rear).
Radiator developed a leak. Of course it's after I test drove it several times to make sure it held pressure and then added coolant, now the coolant leaks.
3rd gear synchros are shot to hell. I can learn to double clutch this ***** but it's gonna prevent my wife from driving until I get it fixed, and her being able to use this to get bales of straw or feed was a big reason I bought it. Ugh. $1100 for a reman if I install it myself.
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