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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I've decide to replace my head gaskets. I've been convinced by the posts on DP that it is not that hard to do and even I can do it. Here are the parts I think I need. Anyone see any mistakes or things I've left out?

Head Gasket Set
FEL-PRO Part # HSU8726
Head gskts., head bolts, exh. pipe packing, positive control exh. valve stem seals not incl.
$39.79

QUESTION: Do I need to get those valve stem seals that are not included?
QUESTION: What the heck is exhaust pipe packing?
Replacement Head Bolts are fine for me - I'm not going with studs. I don't think studs are needed on my NA engine. I also realize if I have to have the heads machined I'll have to get thicker gaskets.

Intake Manifold Gasket Set
FEL-PRO Part # MS91585
Lower Set
$10.55

Exhaust Manifold Gasket Set

FEL-PRO Part # MS91587
$13.05

Valve Cover Gasket Set
FEL-PRO Part # VS50228C
$7.97

Push Rods (Optional)
SEALED POWER Part # RP3342
8.8215 O.A.L; 16 Req'd
$4.02
QUESTION: These are cheap enough at $4 each. Should I just replace them or are the old ones fine to use again?

Except for any optional push rods that comes out to about $70 in parts all together. Can that be right? Sometimes it seems like it costs me $70 just to open the hood! The injectors and glow plugs are all new, so I'll be keeping them.
 

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As far as pushrods are concerned, as long as they aren't abnormally pitted or bent they are fine to use again!(As Jason said in a previous post) I would not buy new ones. That's about $70 dollars saved already!
 

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I am going through the same thing this Wednesday....your list looks about the same as mine (I am not using exhaust gaskets though....waste of time IMO)...

You will also need the coolant crossover tube gaskets....
 

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Lessons learned on the valve cover gaskets for me was throw them away if i ever see them again. I installed the cork gaskets that came with my engine rebuild kit and had to replace them due to too many leaks. Mabye some others have had luck with them but I would just use high temp RTV.
 

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I have no exhaust or valve cover gaskets on mine.

I did go with new pushrods. Not necessary but I did it anyway.

According to any manual you read on any engine it's a bad idea to swap metal to metal parts around. It's not like rotating tires.

You should label all of the parts for reassembly the same as they come apart.

It's not a bad idea to replace the plastic rocker arm keepers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the tip on RTV for valve cover gaskets. However, I think I will use exhaust manifold gaskets because vans have that big removable doghouse for engine access. An exhaust leak around the manifold could have more serious consequences in a van than the same leak in a hooded truck.
 

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I would change the injector return lines and other fuel lines while it was apart. How far from home do you travel, I was just wondering, if you only used it local, I wouldn't replace them, you might let the magic out, I'd wait till they went or something else broke.

My 92 went 250,000miles, 150,000+miles heavy towing, before a head gasket started to let a little compresion into the cooling system, never did find which cylinder was leaking, surfaced the heads(both were slightly warped, but no cracks), put it back together with new head bolts, been running ever since, another 100,000miles. I dont remember if I used exhaust gaskets or not, but yours being non turbo there shouldn't be much backpressure to worry about leaking, dont forget your anti-seaze.

Do replace the rocker arm keepers, they'll probably break when you take it apart.
 

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There is no such think as a thicker gasket if you plane the heads.... but if the block was decked (planed then you would need a spacer or shorter pistons)
and as for the exhaust gaskets good freaking luck, as I'll lay dollars to donuts they will leak! IMO dont use 'em
The best RTV is called "the Right Stuff" made by permatec I think or go to the local dealer and buy the GM sealant it is a grey colored RTV if you use any other type of RTV you most likely will be doing it again, the 2 above mentioned sealants work!
 

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instarx;1580407; said:
QUESTION: What the heck is exhaust pipe packing?
My hunch, these may be the donuts where the manifold joins the crossover (turbo) or exhaust pipes of the N/A.

Depending on the condition of the existing bolts from the manifold to the exhaust, you may want to get a new bolt kit for this join as well, if in fact you take this joint apart.
 

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fyi, felpro does offer a thicker head gasket 0.10 thicker for cases where your heads have been resurfaced, also up grade you cooling system 97+ waterpump/crosover pipe .just my 2 cents !
 

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This may be crazy but it seems that the heads are flat. Resurfacing these heads should not change the size of the cylinders. The valves would also be reseated. Only if the block is resurfaced would the size change.

Maybe that's what nick is referring to.

Any ideas about that?
 

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The .010 thicker head gaskets are only required if the block has been resurfaced ,not the heads.The heads are flat and wont affect the combustion chamber volume, if the block has been resurfaced the piston will be higher up in the bore thus the need for the thicker gaskets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK, I've learned a lot since I posted those part numbers at the top of this thread. Here is a pretty good list of all the PNs for Felpro gaskets, etc. needed for a head replacement. I also posted them in the new 6.5L Parts Point sticky. Hope this info saves people some time.

FelPro Head Gasket Set (need 1) for:
6.2L Diesel Vin Code "C" 1982-1993, and 6.5L Diesel 1992-1999
Does not include head gaskets or head bolts.
HSU 8726 (replaces 14044934)
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FelPro part #s for individual gaskets included in HSU 8726:
5112 Valve Stem Seal
35271 Water Outlet Gkst
35289 Water Outlet Gskt
35357 Water Crossover Gskt
35710 Thermostat Gskt
60555 Air Cleaner Gasket
91585 Intake Manifold Gskt
MB 91587 Exhaust Manifold Gskt
91599 Valve Cover Gskt
91600 Injector Seal Washer (copper washer)
95761 Fuel Return "O" Ring
95786 Fuel Filter Gasket
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FelPro Head Gasket (need 2) for:
6.5L diesel 1994-1998 and 6.5L Turbo Diesel 1992-1998
9701 PT (replaces 12554979)
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FelPro Head Bolt Set (need 2) for:
6.2L and 6.5L Diesel 1982-1996
ES72724 (17 bolts) (FYI, individual bolt PN is 94521)
 
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Hey don't forget to do the OPS while it is accessable, just as a preventative measure, maybe easily accessed in a van, but in a truck a real PITA
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Turbine Doc;1725360; said:
Hey don't forget to do the OPS while it is accessable, just as a preventative measure, maybe easily accessed in a van, but in a truck a real PITA
I was going to write big laughs at that and say nothing is easy to get to in a van, but the OPS is the one thing that is easy.:) Replaced it last summer. I broke the original by resting my knee on it when I changed my glow plugs! Vans are weird.

While the intake manifold and heads are off I am replacing all the rubber fuel lines while they are easy to get to. There is so much room in there with the heads off I'm looking for stuff to do.:)
 

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any one have an estimate of how long the job will take start to finish. I just ordered all the parts and I will be tackling the job this weekend. Also what is an OPS?
 

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On a truck....less than a day if you have all the tools handy....the OPS is the oil pressure switch...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I just did mine and I agree with chrisk1500... but only if you've done one before and you have air wrenches. If you're figuring it out as you go and have to use hand tools I'd give a slightly longer estimate of two days. This was my very first and it took me three days, but I only worked 4-5 hours a day on it. A helper would help a lot, too.

Make sure you have 13, 14, 15, and 18mm deep sockets and a cheater bar to break loose the head bolts which will be TIGHT. I used a 2 foot lenght of 1" I.D. PVC pipe which worked great. Also don't forget the tap to clean out the head bolt hole threads: 12m - 1.75.
 
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