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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1999 Chevy 3500 I changed the motor and I can't get the tdc offset to reset I have a snap on computer with a k- 20 chip and when I do the key on key off procedure nothing changes the tdc offset reads 2.46 and I am looking for anyone's help it's really racking my brain.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The truck runs for about 25 minutes and then it starts acting like it has a high performance racing cam in it and then it stalls out it keeps throwing a code P1214
 

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Welcome to DieselPlace
I moved your post over to its own thread for better views and responses.

Snap on scanners are known to give false values when trying to time a 6.5L
You will need to find a TechII or AutoEnginuity software to time it properly.

When performing any timing changes the engine must be run up to operating temps ( 190*+). No timing changes will occur until the engine is up to temps.
 

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Does the "new" motor have the crank reluctor in place?

My book says 170 degrees + and then set timing and all codes should be clear.

Snap On scanner is useless on 6.5
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes everything is in place I took it out of another truck and put it in my plow truck that had blown head gasket but before I took it out of the donor truck I drove the truck to make sure everything was good before I took the motor out I left a belt on it and everything made sure I didn't move nothing and then put it into my plow truck and automatically triggered time and offset for injection pump
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes everything I found said that the motor had to be over 170 degree to get the relearn to work I tried all day yesterday with the snap on computer and the offset never changed
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for clarifying that about the snap on computer I was wondering why nothing was showing me that it changed
 

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Clear the trouble code first. I'd then clear the computer by disconnecting the batteries and let the thing set 10-20 minutes and turn the key on to insure the thing is dead. Then make sure the crank sensor is plugged in and intact.

Then perform a DieselPro Back Yard Timing>>> Get a small level and level truck side to side. Now place level on the fuel shut off solenoid. Get it dead level straight up and down. Tighten pump down. Now go drive it and get it hot. If it's darn close it'll be running fine. Now the tricky part. Get a good flash light and some good eye balls and look down at the stepper motor on the bottom side of the injection pump. It should be "jittering" back and forth. If it is and not just pegged out to the side you are fine. The "jittering" is the computer controlling the timing advance and since it is working the timing is darn close to perfect.
IF it's pegged you may need to move the pump. (It's telling you that the timing is so far out that it can't adjust it enough.)
If you can find this kinda info somewhere else I will be surprised. Maybe someone can improve on this a little.
 

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I had one "Big Cam" one time and it was a faulty ecm temp sensor I believe.

For grins and giggles see how it runs with the "DieselPro Gremlin Remover"

The Gremlin Remover for those pesky electric quirks.

Disconnect All
1. OPS
2. CPS
3. MAP
4. IAT
5. CTS
6. FFM
7. EGR.
8. Disconnect any PMD extensions and hook it backup to original IP wiring harness.
9. Remove the shut-off solenoid plunger if you don't feel it click.

Now the only thing that has to be hooked up is the optic sensor on top of the IP and the fuel shut-off solenoid and of course the PMD back on the original wiring harness. Make sure the ground wire is still attached to the top IP cover. Hot wire the fuel supply pump. Should crank in about 10-15 seconds of cranking.
It'll throw all kinds of codes but should not "Big cam"
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks a lot for your help and I will let you know how I make out tomorrow.I still can't believe you pay around 8 grand for a snap on computer and it doesn't work on all GM's
 

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Thanks a lot for your help and I will let you know how I make out tomorrow.I still can't believe you pay around 8 grand for a snap on computer and it doesn't work on all GM's
Some of the high end ones might but I have never played around with one.

I have over seen maybe a 50 -100 IP installs and only a few required timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Do you know a good site to buy a tech2 scanner from I don't want to go out and buy one and get ripped off.
 

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I use carcode to set and read TDCO. The OBD-2 website where I downloaded it is still active, but it has changed a bunch. It looks like it might only be for android now. My version is a computer program that runs on old 32bit windows. I keep an old computer around just for this purpose.

Quadstar also has some information both on this forum and his website for an android tool for monitoring OBD2 6.5's. I believe it uses a program called Torque.

I recently saw a post on facepalm that an iOS app called Car Scanner was updated to work with the 6.5's as well.

Perhaps one of these cheap solutions can confirm or deny your snapon results.

If the engine was running fine in the other truck, it seems there should be no need to reset timing as long as you didn't move the IP. I'd be suspicious that there is another problem. Eliminating all other sensors as DPro recommended may be the best path to take.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
My hat goes off to you diesel pro thanks a lot within a hour after following your advice my truck is now running smooth and yes it was the temperature setting sensor for the ECM thanks a lot again buddy
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for all the help again my hat goes off to you buddy I ended up in an hour getting the truck running right and driving it to go do my plowing you are the man or woman whichever one you are
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yes there was another problem even though before I took the motor out of the other truck that ran really good somehow in between switching to motors the sensor went bad for the temperature that sends it to the ECM on the thermostat housing and that's what was shutting my motor down and had it in limp mode and it wouldn't let it relearn to top dead center offset and diesel pro help me out a lot and his advice work I was able to fix my truck in an hour or less and once again thanks a lot diesel pro
 

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Yes there was another problem even though before I took the motor out of the other truck that ran really good somehow in between switching to motors the sensor went bad for the temperature that sends it to the ECM on the thermostat housing and that's what was shutting my motor down and had it in limp mode and it wouldn't let it relearn to top dead center offset and diesel pro help me out a lot and his advice work I was able to fix my truck in an hour or less and once again thanks a lot diesel pro
I take PayPal donations. ( I really could use the funds)
 

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Modified Gremlin Remover

The DieselPro Gremlin Remover

The Gremlin Remover for those pesky electric quirks.

Disconnect All
1. OPS - Oil Pressure sensor > Back of block or late model in the valley
2. CPS - Crank Position Sensor > Front of motor timing chain cover
3. MAP - Manifold Atmospheric Pressure > Top Of Intake Manifold
4. IAT - Intake Air Temperature > Top Of Intake
5. CTS - Coolant Temp Sensor > Located on drivers side head for gauge only.
6. ECM CTS - Temp sensor reports to the ecm > In the t-stat crossover manifold
7. FFM- Fuel Filter Manager > Located in rear valley of engine
8. EGR - Exhaust Gas Recirculation >Driver side top middle of valve cover
9. WGS - Waste Gate Solenoid > Driver side top middle of valve cover
10. Disconnect any PMD extensions and hook it backup to original IP wiring harness.
11. Remove the shut-off solenoid plunger if you don't feel it click.

Now the only thing that has to be hooked up is the optic sensor on top of the IP and the fuel shut-off solenoid and of course the PMD back on the original wiring harness. Make sure the ground wire is still attached to the top IP cover. Hot wire the fuel supply pump. Should crank in about 10-15 seconds of cranking.
 
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