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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just found out that my balancher is failing :( It looks very much like posted here: http://dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1051667&postcount=7

The rubber is coming out on the back. If I press it a little with my fingers, it feels very soft and I can squeeze it.

I was looking at it about a week or two ago and it seemed to be ok, but I can be mistaken. Do they fail that quickly?

Can I still drive or should I better not before replacing it?

When replacing the balancher, does the water pump have to come off? I would do the '97 cooling upgrade when replacing, but it will probably take long to get the parts for that. So if the water pump has to come off anyway, I'll need a set of gaskets. What about the crankshaft seal? I'll try to get one, is it one part/gasket or several parts?

The oil cooler lines also start to leak ...
 

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no time

I have one in the box at my feet - It just doesn't install itself:confused:

GM part number 10154688
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, it would be nice if it did :)

My local supplier has the balancher on stock. He'll find out if he can get the cooling upgrade.

Can I still drive or will the balancher like suddenly fail and leave me with a broken crankshaft?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Should I also replace the pulley that is on the crankshaft?
 

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From what the guys on here have said, you should replace it or risk the crank breaking. A few have band aided them along for a week or two but I wouldn't.
 

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I just replaced mine...i have some photos that I took as I did the job if you need them.

Kudos to the guys that do this type of work daily!! I started friday night and finished up Sunday evening. Not all in one stretch but it still took longer than I thought. I replaced some hoses and pulled the raditor out and cleaned that up as well.

Don't forget to get the crank seal. The hardest things were torquing the balancer nut back down to 200 ft. lbs. I wasn't able to do that...I did use some lock-tight though.

I would have liked to replace the timing chain and do the pitman and idler arms in the same job but I was too worried about the balancer to wait 2-3 more weeks till I had the time and parts to do them all together.

It didn't fix the weird vibration like i'd hoped but I do feel better that the engine might not fly apart for a little bit longer.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah, some pics would be great! And as you mention it, I'll also need the torque specs required to do the job.

How many miles did you drive with the balancher failing? It might take two or three weeks before I get all the parts, or even longer, though I might be able to get the balancher sooner. I'm doing about 620 miles each week.

Did you have to take the water pump off?
 

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I'll post some pics as soon as i'm able to.

On my truck the water pump didn't have to come off.

I drove a couple of weeks after noticing that it didn't look so good but it had probably looked like that for awhile.

Make sure that you use a balancer puller tool and an installer tool. Those make the job fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks! That'll be a great help.


BTW, how does the installer and the puller tool look like? There are no stores here that carry them.

When reinstalling, what's the recommended way to lock the engine so that it doesn't turn over when torquing the nut?
 

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http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62864&highlight=harmonic

Here are a few photos to go with the steps from the post in the link above.

harmonic_01.jpg
This was where I got stuck for awhile. I finally saw that nice little hole in the frame where I could stick my breaker bar. I disconnected the fuel run solenoid and just tapped the starter a couple of time to break that bolt loose.

harmonic_02.jpg
Balancer Puller
harmonic_03.jpg
Backside of the old and new balancer
harmonic_04.jpg
Frontside. I don't know how bad of shape mine was in but the rubber was all swelled up, soft and uneven. I'm glad I replaced it.
harmonic_05.jpg
New crank seal.
harmonic_06.jpg
Harmonic Balancer Installer...made this part of the job a snap.

Maybe one of the pros could chime in on the secret to getting that bolt, that is holding the balancer, torqued back down to 200lbs. I torqued it as best as I could and then used some of the blue locktight. Someone locally suggested using a screwdriver and sticking it somewhere in a hole near the starter and holding it against one of the teeth on the flywheel but I didn't see any hole that they were talking about.

Hope this helps!
 

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Show-'n-tell rules!

Sure looks like a water-pump failure comin' on in that pic of the crank seal - that stuff drainin' out from behind the pulley.........

FYI - antifreeze and Diesel fuel is what softens the rubber, over time.
 

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Show-'n-tell rules!

Sure looks like a water-pump failure comin' on in that pic of the crank seal - that stuff drainin' out from behind the pulley.........

FYI - antifreeze and Diesel fuel is what softens the rubber, over time.
I was hoping someone would comment on that. I had slow drip in that spot so I replaced the lower raditor hose...so far so good. I hope thats all that it was. The night before I started to work on the truck sprayed the front of the block with some engine cleaner and it was still a little wet. The flash from the camera makes that crud look worse than it is. From that photo it does look like the pump might be leaking as well:rolleyes: I'll keep an eye on it.

Quick question....can you hear and feel the water pump if it is going bad?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the pics and the explanation, they are great! :)

Maybe we can put this info into the FAQ? It'll help everyone who's about to replace the balancher.

Anyone on how to block the engine to tighten the nut on the balancher without turning over the engine? 270 Nm is a lot ...


My supplier also has the balancher puller on stock for little money, so I ordered it along with a new balancher and a new gasket.

If the bearing on the water pump fails, you should be able to hear it. The sound it makes is hard to describe, it is like a regular clonking changing its interval with RPMs, getting worse over time.
 

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A bearing that starts failing on a waterpump makes a growling noise, You can't hear it as well on a v-8 as a front wheel drive car (on a car it makes a lot of engine noise) BUT on a V-8 with the engine off grab the fan and try to lift up and push down if you can move it is likely shot and seal failure is likely to happen soon, a very small amount (very small) is OK just keep monitoring it. also during the "wiggling test" look for play in the fan clutch this can be mis-diagnoised as water pump play. Finally you can use a stethascope or screwdriver to listen to the pump bearing as the engine is running (use caution not to hit moving parts) the noise should be smooth and quiet, if your unsure listen to the alternator/idler or AC and compare the noises to get an idea of how it should sound,
Hope this helps to give an idea of water pump condition.

Nick
 

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To hold the engine while torque to 20-0 ft#'s I used 2 bolts in the balancer and a piece of angle iron, turn it till the iron rests on a solid foundation and torque away.
Buzz
 

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Discussion Starter #16
To hold the engine while torque to 20-0 ft#'s I used 2 bolts in the balancer and a piece of angle iron, turn it till the iron rests on a solid foundation and torque away.
Buzz
Hm, that's a good idea :)

But there must be some way to do it proposed by the manufacturer. Anyone with a shop manual that tells you how to do it?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I used a bar on the flywheel.
Hm, do you have to remove the starter to get at the flywheel?

BTW, am I right with 270 Nm for torquing the nut on the crankshaft? I'm reading 200lbs and 200 ft lbs., but the conversion tools don't list ft lbs. They list things like lbf ft, lbf in, pdl in and pdl ft, and some more. Then, there may be different specifications of how much a pound is.

This is very confusing. 270 Nm? 23 Nm? That's quite a difference ...
 

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Anyone on how to block the engine to tighten the nut on the balancher without turning over the engine? 270 Nm is a lot ...
I realize not everyone has one in their toolbox, but the best way I know is to use a main or rod bearing shell wedged on the flywheel teeth. Its soft enough so it won't damage the flywheel but strong enough to work. You have to remove the cover, which requires removing the crossover pipe, but I can do that in 20 minutes or so on my 2WD Sub.
 
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