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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 12 VDC at each new Glow Plug (60s), new controller, newer fuel filter and lift pump (running a blended fuel). If it's not pluged in it takes alot to start it. I know the general diesel rules ( our 5th GM diesel ) but I've never had a problem starting this one even if I'm caught in a no plug zone down close to 0F. Now it starts hard when below 30F. I crank it for about 30+ seconds. It sounds like it only is catching on one or two cylinders after cranking for about 45 sec.s. I let the starter cool for about a minute then crank again. It begins to stumble as if running on 5 - 6 after another 30 sec.s. The crank speed begins to pick up and I let up on the starter. Within few seconds #7 & 8 kick in and it's running. The batteries never seam to loose streangth during all of this cranking. The Tack reads about 300 RPM during this "event". If it's plugged in it starts in about 5 secs, sounds like it's running on about 7 then smooths out by ten seconds. It does smoke a little but it's off white and smells like unburnt fuel. Batteries are about 2 years old ( I think they are 1050s)

?#1 I think I'm running 10W-40 Rotella, can/ should I go lighter?
?#2 I heard you need about 500 RPM to start? Has anyone ever looked at their tac when cranking.
?#3 Should my first course of action be to have the starter rebuilt?
 

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Probably not staying lit long enough.

Lot of people with 60G's are having cold start problems. There is a manual override add-on mod.
 

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Pull the ECT connector, try it again.................
 

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gmctd;1554876; said:
Pull the ECT connector, try it again.................

May sound dumb.......what does ECT stand for? I also have starting issues when cold.
 

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engine coolant temp
 

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The sensor is on the water outlet crossover next to the heater hose outlet.
 

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What's your glow time and outside temperature by the way?
 

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DavidPhillips;1555022; said:
What's your glow time and outside temperature by the way?

-23 outside..with a bunch of glow plugs not working.
As for time, 4 secs..but no fire. crap.:mad:
 

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Mine is on a lot longer at over 40F
 

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Next week I should have 8 working glows......should be better than. I hope.
 

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The glow time is 1 to 16 seconds.

Probably needs to be close to -40 to go that long.

The ECT receives 5 volts from the PCM. The resistance of the sensor increases as the temperature drops, so the higher the voltage back to the PCM the longer the glow cycle.

If the 5 volts is low to start with the shorter the glow time under any condition.

An open circuit will cause extended glow time as an error will be generated and the PCM will extend glow time and advance timing to compensate for -40.
 

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It's -23C....not sure what that is in F. Pretty friggen cold I'd say.
Anyways, dead truck on work parking lot. crap. :mad:

Gettin new glows next week. Boss won't like the new ornament. Oh well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'll try unpluging the ECT sensor. The glows however do stay on for about the 16 sec mark when not pluged in. When pluged in it's alot more like 5 secs. And they cycle several times after that. I "burped?" the fuel filter and filled a jar from the T handle with just the key on. Good fuel flow. If it's not related to crank speed I'm just concerned it's something more seroius. The engine is considerably more noisey inside the cab lately. I played the noisey engine video posted recently and mine sounds the same but always has.....
 

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I think you should take all of your plugs out and test them, make sure all of your female spade connecters that attach to your plugs are making good contact (both clean and not loose when connected, you should have to push it on the plug not just have it really loose), I had the same symptoms a week or two ago then I checked my glowplugs and 6 out of 8 were bad so it took alot of cranking to get her going, now with my new AC60gs plus my manual controller it starts up great, plugged in or not in -15C temps. Also you will get alot more noise in the cab when your engine is cold just because its cranky and doesnt like the cold.
 

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My glow time just now was 7 to 8 seconds at 50F
 

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Doesn't matter how long the controller is on - multiple glow plug failures needs to be addressed first.

Each cylinder needs glow to ignite the fuel in that cylinder.

0C = 32F 60C = 140F
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok I timed the Glow on time. It was about 9 seconds. It's about +4F outside. Inside the garage it's about + 25F. I unplugged the ECT and it still was only about 11 secs. for the first cycle. Thesecond cycle is about 5 then 4 then 3 then 2 then 1. This seams "normal" to me. I agree with Dieseldreamr, my glow plug connectors aren't really tight. I'll go through them all. I'm guessing I'll need to poke in a small screwdriver to release a little spring tab so I can remove the white cover and reform the connector for a tight fit. I wish I had my father-in-laws little Fluke current meter that has the clip end. I coule easily measure the current on each wire which should pretty much tell me they "should" be glowing since all the glows are new. If I can get this Fluke anyone know what I should see for current (other than they should all be close to the same)? This should be more simple. I just need ignition, which is just air, fuel and heat. I guess the fourth would be a captive enviroment, meaning compression, I hope I'm not going there.
 

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8~10 amps @ - current varies with temperature - also by brand

Also by connection - looser is worser
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I tighentened up each conn on the Drivers side. Tried turning over just for kicks. Same result, no fire just stumble, GP time ~ 9 secs. Took out the inner fender well on the Pass side. Measured for my 2-4 Ohms. Numbers 2 & 4 were open.... Double checked my meter on the Drivers side again. From Neg battery post to Glow Plug tip they were all 2-4 Ohms. Removed #2, 4 and 8. All three were wet and measured open. I replaced all four on this side last weekend. It started ok then but our temps were unseasonablly warm at around 30F+. I'm going to check the GP wiring to make sure everything is ok.
If for some reason I did have a bad GP Controller that I just replaced yesterday can getting glow plugs "wet" cause them to burn open??? [/U]I think I'm going to call SSDieselSupply again and order the instant heats. Even if they only last a year they worked great last time. I checked and had orderd them last year on ebay on 2/27. I started having to replace them one by one in Dec so just decided to go with the 60gs.
 

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Vice versa - open causes them to be wet - if you're burning out 60G's, you gotta reelly big problem(s).

'Instant heats' are proving to be 'instant opens', unless they're LDM\equiv

They gotsta be unplugged to test each one - glow harness parallels them all - unplug each, measure from body hex to spade, or engine to spade.
 
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