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After finally getting my H2 wheels and tires installed, I decided to do a post with all the stuff I learned from my install.

The install

The wheels:
This is pretty straight forward just lift the truck, take the old ones off and put the new ones on, using the original lugs. You don't need to torque down the nuts completely because you might be taking them off again.

Center caps:
The chrome caps do fit with no mods, but if you have the silver H2 wheels (like I do) it won't look as good as it could. I purchased a set of silver GMC caps (I think they come from the work truck wheels) off of eBay. These caps do need to be trimmed but it's easy. I used a pair of sheet metal cutters. Originally used a dremel but the dust and time it took were frustrating me. You simply cut the supports to the legs, pull the legs off then trim around the edge of the cap (about a 1/4 inch) and they should fit with no problems. I have read that the H2 caps fit by just trimming the legs but I didn't want to have "HUMMER" on my wheels and didn't want to take the time to fill it in, plus the HD caps look better.

The lift:
I went the cheap/easy way and just turned up the t-bars and added Cognito's shock extender brackets. To do this jack the truck up and put it on jack stands, make sure that the front wheels are off the ground. If you go in from under the front doors you will see the t-bars and adjustment bolts (18mm). I put some anti-seize on the threads that were going to need it and started turning. Two turns gave me 3/4 inch. Four total turns was 1 1/4 inches and five turns was nothing noticeable. I will tell you the same thing as everyone else: When you think you have it where you want it, drive the tuck around, over some bumps and re-measure. It will be lower than it was when you dropped it. I did not crank the bars as much as I could because I didn't mind some trimming and a slight rub here and there. Also didn't want to mess up the ride.

The shocks:
Since you are losing shock travel you can either buy new, longer shocks (the smarter and more expensive option) or the can go with spacers (the way I went). The two types of spacers are above and below the shocks. I went with the bottom by ordering the Cognito lower shock brackets. They only cost 33 bucks but the quality is on par (maybe even better than) the factory brackets. Now to install them you need to get the truck back in the air and on stands. You can take off the wheels (to make life a bit easier) or you can leave them on. First take the lower shock bolt off (21mm). After you take off the bolt which secure the bracket to the lower control arm (15mm). There are two and they will be hard to take off. An adjustable head ratchet or socket with an extension will help a lot. You may also need a breaker bar or some kind of leverage arm. Once they are off just install the new brackets. When you go to bolt the shock back in the bolt goes in the opposite way from before. The cv shaft doesn't allow you to put it in the way you took it out. Now you have just got back 1 1/2 inches of travel (back to stock). The truck does ride a bit smoother than it did before the spacers and you won't kill the shocks as quickly.

The trimming:
Trimming varies by each truck, tire, amount of lift and personal preference. I did hesitate to trim pieces on a 45k truck, but you gotta do what you gotta do. What learned over the years (mostly from lowering cars) was to drive around a bit. Everything that needs to be trimmed will have marks on it and that is your starting point. I had to trim my front bumper and fender liners. The bumper is barley noticeable and the liners just look a bit shorter than normal, but unless you know what you looking for you won't notice. For all the trimming I used the same metal shears and it was easy. I have used utility knifes and razor blades in the past but if you slip it can be bad. REMEMBER TAKE YOU TIME. Once it has been cut off you can't really but it back together.

Some useful measurements:

Original tires and rims: 29" tall.
H2 w/ 315/70r17's: 33 1/2" tall.
Distance from ground to fender: FR 37 1/4" RR 40"
On H2's with no lift: 39 1/4" 41 3/4"
After five turns on the t-bars: 40 1/2" 41 3/4"

Weight of stock wheels and tires: 55.8 lbs
H2 wheels and Cooper Discoverer 31/70's: 94.2 lbs

The ride after the install was smoother (the wife even noticed)
The speedo is off by about 10% (60 on the speedo was 66 on the radar)

Any questions let me know. I hope this helps some one out there.
 

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Nice write up. I would suggest also that instead of installing the shock extender, you can replace the stockers with Bilsteins that are 2" longer and it will greatly improve things up front. Just my opinion..
 

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Sweet write up!! The other thing is before a bunch of people ask for more pictures, add them to your garage.
 

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I also installed a set of 315 h2's on a buddies 05 Chevy this weekend. I found that the Chevy was easier to do, less trimming, and had less rubbing on the backside of the wheel well. Also on the GMC you have to grind off the posts on the center caps or the plastic lugs dont reach, you will only get about 1 thread on the steel lugs. The one thing I cant figure out is why his truck rides better than mine with the same set up. Same shocks just his is 05 Chevy and mine 06 GMC.
 

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Table router works good too. And, don't forget to have the alignment checked!

 

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I am just going to bite off of this thread as it's more than likely finished.
This Friday I am installing Chrome H2's on 285/70/17 Toyo's.
I want to use my stock center cap on my 2005 Chevy. I believe that most non work truck models have the (is it PYO?) wheel. They seem to be a chrome stock wheel.
RickLBZ was running the silver H2's so he got a silver GM centercap.
What I need to know, is will I need to "cut the legs, and supports to the legs" on my stock centercap once the H2's are on?
Rick mentioned that it wouldn't "look as good" with the silver H2's without having his centercap trimmed. Does that no apply to me since I'm running the chromes? I'm a little confused about all this.
Could anyone please set me straight so I'm confident when starting this project?
Thanks all!
Luke
 

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Hey Rick, VERY good thread. Thanks for taking the time for us members.
I would think a wheel allignment would be the next step as Wanadmxsub stated.
 

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H2 Tire and Rims

To each his own , but I didn't like washing my stock center caps. Thats why I used 2" rear spacers and run H2 stock center caps with Clark Signs center cap decals.(Computer cut diamond tread with bow ties ) Oh, by the way I own Clark Signs and I could post pics if anyone was interested.
 

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Show us some pics of those sweet caps then dude.
 

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Manke'sMax;1637486; said:
I am just going to bite off of this thread as it's more than likely finished.
This Friday I am installing Chrome H2's on 285/70/17 Toyo's.
I want to use my stock center cap on my 2005 Chevy. I believe that most non work truck models have the (is it PYO?) wheel. They seem to be a chrome stock wheel.
RickLBZ was running the silver H2's so he got a silver GM centercap.
What I need to know, is will I need to "cut the legs, and supports to the legs" on my stock centercap once the H2's are on?
Rick mentioned that it wouldn't "look as good" with the silver H2's without having his centercap trimmed. Does that no apply to me since I'm running the chromes? I'm a little confused about all this.
Could anyone please set me straight so I'm confident when starting this project?
Thanks all!
Luke
Pull the legs out and try that first, if that's not enough then cut them off. Center caps from the steel wheels need to be shaved/trimmed. PYO's don't.
 

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The reason for grinding off the legs is to allow enough threads of the caps to hold on to your factory nuts. You need to tighten the factory nuts on center caps enough until you feel a click. That is the dimple falling into recession on the cap. TRUST ME if you dont do this you will be buying new caps!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
What he said. Pull the little black pieces first but remember better safe than sorry.
 
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