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This is not completely 6.5 related but I think it's very relavent.

We always hear the people in the know around here (gmctd in particular) talking about checking your grounds for almost every problem under the sun.....

Q. "Yeah I got a slow leak in my passenger's side rear tire, what could the problem be?"

A. gmctd, "Um....take it to a tire shop and have them check to see if you picked up a nail or have a poor seal around the rim, and check your grounds from the intake to the fire wall on the passenger's side." :D

Okay, so that's a bit of an exaggeration, but you get my point.

What I discovered yesterday had nothing to do with my truck but a haunting problem with my outboard motor was fixed by finding a bad ground wire.

I have had starting issues with my outboard since I bought it last year. It was hard starting, the starter would spin but wouldn't engage. The repeated attempts to start would cause it to flood, you get the picture. I tried all the usual stuff. Changed spark plugs, put in fresh gas, tinkered with this and that and still nothing. I was getting ready to take it in to have it looked at.

Yesterday as I was getting the boat ready to go out fishing, I was checking a little homemade terminal block that the PO had set up to connect the cables from the battery, to the cables going to the motor. I gave it a little wiggle and low and behold didn't the negative cable coming from the battery fall right out of it's little crimp on connector! Bad ground!

I stripped back the wire a little, made sure it was seated properly, re-crimped and soldered and viola, all fixed. It started like a champ each and every time we were out on the lake.

So kids...remember to check those grounds and keep your head up and your stick on the ice! :D (just thought I'd throw in a little hockey advise there too eh)

Dave

PS - Happy Father's Day to all the Daddys in Da House!
 

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I had started this while at sea couple of weeks ago but Dave beat me to it

Grounds, Grounds, Grounds


“All I ever hear here is check my grounds”

Are you having white smoke on startup, slow cranking, errant voltage to lift pump, dim headlights, IP sometimes acts like the fuel solenoid isn’t getting juice, relays aren’t picking up their end of the work.

Well here it goes again check your grounds, see attached photos from some preventative maintenance I was doing while swapping passengers side glows, since I had the inner fender off; and one of the main grounds was fully accessible, as an experiment I thought I’d check what my resistance from block to frame was, 300 ohm WOW, with only 14” of GND strap to the frame that is way too high. I had been having intermittent glow issues, but also knew I had at least 1 maybe more bad glow plug on passenger side.

Modern computer controlled engines literally live or die for want of good electron flow, every circuit relies on good solid & clean grounds. Sensors with resistive feedback are impacted by poor grounds, charging & starting circuits, lighting, glow plugs etc. need good grounding. Cleaner the better, poor grounding causes premature device fails as the circuit heats up as it tries to see paths of least resistance. In attached photos cleaning up main grounds resistance frame to block was reduced from 300 ohm to 0 ohm. I don’t have glow problems any more & found only 1 bad glow out of the 8 so maybe 2 things going on in the glow circuit.

Also take notice of fraying of the strap left unattended/un-inspected, that strap sometimes breaks in half and because it is hidden under the turbo/starter sometimes hard to notice until doing maintenance in that area.

So step one in any problem if you haven’t checked them in a while is take a look at the grounds, all of them.
 

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Yep it was the bad ground that flattened that tire , , it would not be that way from a good ground.
 

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Yeah - but was it on the ground when it happened?

Besides - it was only flat on the ground side - is that grounds for concern?

Odd that we boil vegetables, throw out the water and eat the vegetables - why do we boil the coffee, drink the water and throw out the grounds?

Methinks I've just about ground this down to a nub..............
 

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I think if we all just stay grounded we will be fine :D .
 

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clean tight and bright
 
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That hole stripped when I cleaned that ground on my truck :mad: and I had to find a new bolt for it.

I'd like to kick the ID10T ENG that that put that bolt there under the exhaust manifold. :mad: :mad:
 

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gmctd;1858412; said:
Yeah - but was it on the ground when it happened?

Besides - it was only flat on the ground side - is that grounds for concern?

Odd that we boil vegetables, throw out the water and eat the vegetables - why do we boil the coffee, drink the water and throw out the grounds?

Methinks I've just about ground this down to a nub..............
:funnypost
By the way anyone have a P/N for that braided GROUND strap??

Thanks,
Louis
 
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Great thread, guys. Show-and-tell is wonderful.

Now when TD or gmctd tell somebody to "clean your grounds" they have no excuse for just doing the battery terminals and calling it a day.
 

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some more left out from 1st time posted
 

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Awesome

Thanks Turbine Doc! Somebody has been having fun with the digital camera.

Please add to the the Sticky's

Why on earth does the 6.5 have so may grounds? Or did my other vehicles have as many and I just never noticed them?
 

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Already there in reference area hint-hint-hint pays to spend tome in reference area 1st one never know what nugget of wisdom to be found there, and it does require some reading.

As for why on the gnds, it ain't just 6.5 all on them that run "fly by wire" fuel regulation need solid voltage to maintain clean control signals, multiple gnds allow 1 sub-system to not tax the other one when a single point gnd would get "dirty" and kill entire electrical system.

Folks forget the 6.5 DS-4 was the 1st commonly available "smart Diesel" with ability to electronically meter fuel so better mpg than purely mechanical IPd older engines
 
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Yeah Good grounds is right! My buddies grand cherokee wouldnt start, wouldnt even turn over!!

Cleaned the contacts on the starter, problem solved :)
 

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Doing turbo swap I found a couple more I had forgotten about
 

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Doc
You,re a great guy . My yearly thanks for your never ending ,above & beyond dedication to sharing with the 6.5 community .
Now,if spring would only come here, I would go out & check my grounds.
 

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I am a firm believer in using conductive electrical grease, never seez and dialectic grease on connections.
 

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I am a firm believer in using conductive electrical grease, never seez and dialectic grease on connections.
Whats the difference? I thought it was just to stop the corrosion from forming?

Louis
 

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And whats diabetic grease? :D

Louis
 

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Conductive grease is conductive - like the wire. Many greases like dialectic grease are non-conductive. I have some conductive copper never seez that I like to use but I'm about out and bought a small amount of a differant style of conductive grease that I don't like as well. Fastenal had some copper never seez of a differant brand but it was non-conductive which I found surprising. So not all copper anti-seez lubricants are conductive.
If anybody knows where I can buy conductive copper anti-seez please send me the manufacturer & as much other info as you can.
You can check for conductivity or lack there of of the grease or antiseez with a continuity tester. If you put both probes in and you have continuity it's conductive.
Thanks
 
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