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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I decided to go ahead and pick up the '99 4x2 crew that I was asking about last week or so. (with the 6.5)..
This truck has 55k miles, which is pretty good for around here.
I test drove a couple Ford's with the V10, 1 with the 7.5psd, and 1 Dodge w/V10 and 1 Dodge w/the cummings.

All of them had more power than the 99 6.5 and that ofcourse was of concern to me. However, the Chevy truck was miles ahead of all the others in comfort, and ride quality.

My questions: Does anyone have any MPG comparisons to offer? I pull a 7k Travel Trailer..
Does anyone know the Tow Ratings for this year and engine truck?
Will this truck be strong enough with only 190hp?

Unhooked, I am actually suprised by how well she moves out..

Also, what years were the injector prob's..???
Should I be looking out for anything?
Thanks a bunch...
D
 

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The numero uno thing to do is dump the restrictions installed at the factory. The stock downpipe to soot trap to muffler to axle bends is very restrictive. The replacement pipe shown is only 1/4" bigger at 3", but much better at exhausting hot gas. 4" pipes are available.





The flip side of this is if you're going to pull a TT nonstop, consider an intercooler. It will enable you to make more power without burning up your block. Also, remote relocation of the FSD/PMD off the IP may save you some problems later on.Edited by: quantum mechanic
 

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7,000 lb should be a piece of cake I tow 5,000lbs with 3:42 ratio all the time. You most likely have 4.10 or 3.73. what MPH do you show at 60mph? the engine like to run at 1800-2000rpm thats where you'll get your best mpg. I like to run fast so I changed to a 3:42 at about 35,000 miles. TT the wind drag is very significant you will find the slower you go the better mpg. for ever 5mph over 1800 rpm you will lose at least on 1mpg. I have towed 26 foot TT and have gotten 11-13 mpg through the Rocky mountains.
 

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I agree with QM remote mount the FSD and increase exhaust size for long term reliability.For power best bang for the buck for me so far is the Heath's turbo-master.
 

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If you weld or have a welder available, I have an idea for making a water to air intercooler for under $100.


It uses two stock heater cores form the K3500. One core goes between the turbo and upper intake. The other goes in front of the radiator. It also uses a 12v water pump, a 12v thermostatic relay to engage the WP and a one gallon reservoir under the hood.


You need the welder because the core between the turbo and upper intake has to be encapsalated inside a custom airtight manifold. the thermostatic relay is also inside this manifold. The $15 dollar relay I have comes on at 180 degs. and goes off at 150 degs.


When the first core gets above 180 deg. it switches on the relay, powering the WP and filling the upper core with cooler water and moving the warmer water to the core in front of the radiator for cooling. The cycle is controlled by the thermastatic relay only. If your intake tempatures are low because it's cold the relay won't switch untill it gets to 180 degs. and will switch off again as soon as the relay goes below 150 degs.


I plan on putting it togather as soon as I have a chance.


I pull loaded trailers 6,000-10,000 lbs. + trailer and I get about 14 MPG if I go easy on the throttle.Edited by: quantum mechanic
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the input..
"remote relocation of the FSD/PMD off the IP may save you some problems later on."

Can someone break that down for me? lol
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Also:
"best bang for the buck for me so far is the Heath's turbo-master". Ive been looking at their website..

What about the Torque Master and other items they recommend to go along with it?

It appears as though if I purchased a few things from Heaths, I could potentially gain quite an increase in HP and TQ for around $700 or so...

Ya think?
 

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The fuel solenoid driver (FSD) is a problem if you own a 6.5. GM mounted it on the injector pump to cool it (it gets hot when you drive) and this configuration is shortsighted at best. I've put mine at the top right of the picture on the red wire loom.





Heath's products seem geared to work togather, but don't forget to do your exhaust first though. Making more power through the same restrictive exhaust could be counter productive. and if you want to know how restrictive, just remember that diesels need to move ten times the volume of air that a gasser would use and yet they both have the same size exhaust pipes.
 

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Dlayman, I pull 6000-7500lb @ 70 mph and get 14 mpg all day long. I probably have 3:73 gears, 70 is about 2000-2100 rpm. My trailer is 16' double axle, loaded with A/C condensors and concrete pads. My mileage is affected greatly if I try to run above 70 though. Have had no problems power wise, tires run @ 80p.s.i.
 

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To improve power intake and Exhaust FIRST!!!! Low cost and make engine run better improve mileage. TurboMaster allows you to crank up boost and get rid of problem prone vacum pump and waste gate controller "should" gage it if you go with it. The MaxiTork chip is for '94 & 95 years. With a 99 you will need a Computer reflash. I have the chip and fit well worth it. The guys who have done the Reflashed computer really like it. Again you need gages to keep from burning your engine up. The exhaust and intake you don't need to gage it. ( I would tho)
 

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winchster said:
Dlayman, I pull 6000-7500lb @ 70 mph and get 14 mpg all day long. I probably have 3:73 gears, 70 is about 2000-2100 rpm. My trailer is 16' double axle, loaded with A/C condensors and concrete pads. My mileage is affected greatly if I try to run above 70 though. Have had no problems power wise, tires run @ 80p.s.i.

Yupp that's where a 3.73 will run. I had 3.73 and 1900 rpm= 63 mph.


4.10's 70mph, 2300-2400rpm
 
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