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Discussion Starter #1
I've been reassembling my 6.5L engine in my Suburban (it should start today) and have a question:

On the driver's side, there appears to be a space between the power steering / idler pulley/alternator bracket where it meets the cylinder head on the inboard side (2 bolts). I believe one of those engine hoist brackets fits between the studs screwed into the head and the head to fill the gap.

Can someone confirm?

Secondly, the small notch Kennedy mentions on his website for the 97 cooling upgrade isn't small. It is about 3/4" deep into the bracket (from the edge) and an arc similar (but larger) to the coolant crossover diameter. I'm going to drill press small holes in the arc and then beat it off, or simply use a cutting torch (but I have to move another broken car - my 65 Mustang to get to my welding set).

Items I have left to do are:

1. wire up EGT sensor in engine bay (extension harness)

2. drain engine oil (putting castrol in just for startup - I'll switch back to Amsoil and new filters after a couple hundred miles or so)
3. get alt/ps/idler bracket notched
4. install belt/fan/shroud
5. install battery trays
6. perform one pass over engine to ensure I haven't missed aything
7. pressurize fuel system (I'll pull glow plug relay / fuse)
8. tighten injection lines at injectors
9. install grond wire on PMD cooler
10. install turbo and heat shield
11. install downpipe and exhaust
12. install h2o
13. fire it up!
 

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Steve, what do you mean by extension harness on your EGT probe? You know these aren't normal wires and can't be cut, soldered, and extended, yes?
 

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I'd reccommend buying cheap oil and 3 or 4 filters. drop the oil and filter after the first 15-20mins of running (or soon after the engine comes up to operating temp. then do the next 100- 200KMs later then go another 500Kms. after that go your normal interval between changes.

There is always metal particles floating around in the engine after a rebuild, so flushing as much as possible helps to make it easier for the filter to catch them, just for fun cut your filter open afterwards look at the oil inside and the metal that will be captured in the oil filter pleets, also some filters(FRAM) do a horrible job at filtering and let the dirty oil mix with the clean.

IMHO you cant change the oil too much after rebuilding an engine. I believe the first two oil changes are critical and should be done soonest.

As for cutting the EGT wires I've had no issues shortening them(never had to lengthen them though.
 

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As for cutting the EGT wires I've had no issues shortening them(never had to lengthen them though.
This is ok. Adding isn't.
 

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IMHO you cant change the oil too much after rebuilding an engine. I believe the first two oil changes are critical and should be done soonest.
Awesome advice. How cheap are oil and filters? How expensive are our engines?
 

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I've been reassembling my 6.5L engine in my Suburban (it should start today) and have a question:

On the driver's side, there appears to be a space between the power steering / idler pulley/alternator bracket where it meets the cylinder head on the inboard side (2 bolts). I believe one of those engine hoist brackets fits between the studs screwed into the head and the head to fill the gap.

Can someone confirm?
Yes, that's right, I left mine off accidentaly when I took the front cover apart and it tossed a belt shortly after so I know exactly what you're talking about. If you don't have the old piece, you need to find something to use as a spacer. It's the same thickness as the rear lift point on the pass side head...if thats still there ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Steve, what do you mean by extension harness on your EGT probe? You know these aren't normal wires and can't be cut, soldered, and extended, yes?
I bought a EGT probe extension harness from ISSPRO. I'm using that to extend the length of the harness between the probe and the transmitter.

Thanks, TexasDieselGuy. I figured it out after perusing the garage and looking at pics.

Now I'm off to get my 13 items done!:grd:
 
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