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Discussion Starter #1
I looked through my trusty hanes manual and found out that dark green or gray is power for "illumination" on the headlight switch but I tried to use the tester but apparently i blew a fuse, lond story short is where and which wire is best to be used for "illumination" on gauges that works with the headlight switch?
 

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Look in your convenience center - comes from the dimmer for the instrument lighting
 

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Just put all your positives and negatives into one wire (from the lights) and put the negatives to a good ground under the steering wheel and the positives into fuse 14. They will dim with your switch, and come on when you turn your light nob. I just used some green wire I had laying around.

Jacob
 

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Get yourself one of these little do-hickeys

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=32276&d=1168915533

It's an "add-a-fuse" which should be available at any auto parts store. I picked up 2. One for the lights, plugged into fuse 14 as Jacob indicated" and one to power my trans and pyro gauges. It worked like a charm. You just remove the existing fuse, plug in the add a fuse, put the fuse back into the add a fuse (you might have to run a second fuse in the add a fuse to make it work, it's covered in the instructions). Join positive wires to pigtail of add a fuse, negative wire to a good ground and you're all set.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That looks like a winner, I wish I had have thought of that before I spliced into two wires lol.... what is the best pyro gauge kit for the price??? I just dont see spending almost $200 on one...
 

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I don't know if there is a "best". Lots of guys use and like different ones. I bought an AutoMeter Ultra like for $115. If you'd like the contact info for where I bought it, send me a PM.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #7
is that a kit or just the gauge?
 

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I got the same exact thing as Dave the Autometer Ultra-Lite 0-1600 pyro and 0-35psi boost gauge. Boost gauge was like $46, pyro was like $115, and pillar pod was $27 or $30. Got mine from summit racing, for both gauges, and the dual pod it was like $210. I also got a free summit racing hat with this order. I thought it was a pretty good deal. If you want any additional info on the gauges themselves feel free to PM me any time I would be glad to help.

Jacob
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just ordered the pillar mount but I need the gauge with the probe, ssdiesel has them on his site for 150 with everything, is the 115 for the whole shebang?
 

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Yes, do you have any gauges ordered yet? I messed up from summit racing it was xxxfor the whole deal, it comes with the clamp to mount in the downpipe was well as everything else needed for pretty much anything you want to do with it. Here it is.

non site vendor link removed
Jacob
 

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Mine was for the complete pyro kit. All wiring and probe included.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I already have a boost gauge but no pyro.... is the downpipe one a good idea? I realize you get a better reading pre-turbo but I guess its all the same just a lower reading....

Stupid question but how in the hell do you get to the pmd to remove it????
 

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Make a tool that fits in there to unscrew the bolts.
 

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96GMC6.5L;1571123; said:
Just put all your positives and negatives into one wire (from the lights) and put the negatives to a good ground under the steering wheel and the positives into fuse 14. They will dim with your switch, and come on when you turn your light nob. I just used some green wire I had laying around.

Jacob
did you mean to attatch the positive wires from the gauge light and the power for the little box both to fuse 14 or just the lighting, and if so then what would be the best place to attach the power for the little box (gauge amp)
 

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s_abercromby;1648213; said:
did you mean to attatch the positive wires from the gauge light and the power for the little box both to fuse 14 or just the lighting, and if so then what would be the best place to attach the power for the little box (gauge amp)
Gauge lights only to fuse 14.

Power for the gauge to "any switched power source".

Just like I told you in the other thread.

If you are running multiple gauges you can put all the light + together and all the - together. + to fuse 14, - to a good ground.

Same if you're running multiple gauges that require 12V to operate.

Dave
 

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Dave12;1648222; said:
Gauge lights only to fuse 14.

Power for the gauge to "any switched power source".

Just like I told you in the other thread.

If you are running multiple gauges you can put all the light + together and all the - together. + to fuse 14, - to a good ground.

Same if you're running multiple gauges that require 12V to operate.

Dave

Exactly
 

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Seems like this one is covered in the FAQ even with pics IIRC
 

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Turbine Doc;1648465; said:
Seems like this one is covered in the FAQ even with pics IIRC
Yep and I gave him the link in the other thread he started with the same question.

I guess he just doesn't believe me....sniff, sniff. :)

Dave
 

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The problem with the FAQ is it identifies fuse #16 or #15.

It it definitely #14. The faq should be corrected Doc. (Don't think this is model or year specific.)
 
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