[hank66]

I have a 1982 6.2L GMC Suburban with the original style glow plug system.

I understand removal of the screw in GP Contoller is problematical due to its potmetal/aluminum construction. As well, it is installed in such a way that it is almost impossible to get a wrench on the flats and be able to swing the wrench. Additionally, the circular top where the electrical connector pushes on does not allow the use of a socket wrench which must be a deep 1 and 1/8 inch socket.

Does anyone have a foolproof tip on how to remove this controller for a backyard mechanic? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

(Note-I have been advised to update the system but I have a new GP controller in hand).

If I missed a comment on this issue on this forum, I apologize.

 

[hank66]

See my question above. Does anyone have a suggestion on a special tool or technique for removing the old sytle GP controller without breaking it and leaving the threads in the engine. As far as I know this type controller actually is exposed to engine coolant, so a break would pose a big problem.

I hope my question is not too dumb; if so let me know.

 

[High Sierra 2500]

Welcome to the forum! :welcome:

Sounds to me like you are going to need a deep well six point 1 1/8" socket to get it out. I think it should go over the connector if it is deep enough. Should come out fairly easily, actually.

If that doesn't work, I would think you could buy a cheap wrench and bend it to go on...

Welcome again!

 

[GREASE FIRE]

is he talking about the glow plug inhibit switch or is that something different?
Paul

 

[High Sierra 2500]

is he talking about the glow plug inhibit switch or is that something different?
Paul

No, he's talking about the glow plug controller. It is threaded into the cylinder head on '82-'84 models unlike the later models which are just bolted on with some bolts.

 

[jdemaris]

I have a 1982 6.2L GMC Suburban with the original style glow plug system.

I understand removal of the screw in GP Contoller is problematical due to its potmetal/aluminum construction. As well, it is installed in such a way that it is almost impossible to get a wrench on the flats and be able to swing the wrench. Additionally, the circular top where the electrical connector pushes on does not allow the use of a socket wrench which must be a deep 1 and 1/8 inch socket.

Does anyone have a foolproof tip on how to remove this controller for a backyard mechanic? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

(Note-I have been advised to update the system but I have a new GP controller in hand).

If I missed a comment on this issue on this forum, I apologize.

A true deep-well socket works fine on it. The problem is - many so-called deep-well sockets are not completely hollow inside - many have a step after the first inchwhich stops it from going on many sending units, fuel injectors, glow-plug controllers, etc. Just buy yourself a true deep-well socket. Some Snap-Ons are fine, so are Craftsmen sockets.

 

[jdemaris]

Look at these photos

I have a 1982 6.2L GMC Suburban with the original style glow plug system.

I understand removal of the screw in GP Contoller is problematical due to its potmetal/aluminum construction. As well, it is installed in such a way that it is almost impossible to get a wrench on the flats and be able to swing the wrench. Additionally, the circular top where the electrical connector pushes on does not allow the use of a socket wrench which must be a deep 1 and 1/8 inch socket.

Does anyone have a foolproof tip on how to remove this controller for a backyard mechanic? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

(Note-I have been advised to update the system but I have a new GP controller in hand).

If I missed a comment on this issue on this forum, I apologize.

I just went out and tried to remove one, since I have several 82 and 83 6.2s laying around in my shop. It was easy - just take the little adapter plate off with the two 3/8" bolts and a 9/16" wrench. Then, you can still it all in vise, add a little heat and it comes apart easy with a 1 1/8" wrench. See the photos



(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)




(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)

 

[hank66]

I want to thank everyone for their thoughts and pictures; every little bit helps.

However, a true deep well socket will not fit. See picture from jdemaris above. The electrical connector edge has a larger diameter; and the boss above the flats has a slightly larger diameter. That why I am scratching my head about this removal and thought maybe there was a special tool.

With engine in vehicle, there is not enough room to swing a vice grip or open end wrench if one is trying to access the flats.

Or should one just grab onto the electrical connector and pray it breaks loose?

Again, thanks for the thoughts.

 

[jdemaris]

I want to thank everyone for their thoughts and pictures; every little bit helps.

However, a true deep well socket will not fit. See picture from jdemaris above. The electrical connector edge has a larger diameter; and the boss above the flats has a slightly larger diameter. That why I am scratching my head about this removal and thought maybe there was a special tool.

With engine in vehicle, there is not enough room to swing a vice grip or open end wrench if one is trying to access the flats.

Or should one just grab onto the electrical connector and pray it breaks loose?

Again, thanks for the thoughts.

You're correct about the socket not fittting. I did take one out with a socket, but the plastic ridge on top was missing. Why don't you just remove the assembly along with the little adapter plate via the two 3/8" bolts? Did you scroll the photos to the right that I posted and view the adapter? I went out this morning and tried an open-end wrench on my 82 truck with the 6.2 diesel. I can get a wrench on it no problem, but you need an offest angle wrench. I have sets from Snap On, Mac, and some el-cheapos from Harbor Freight. Back when I was a professional mechanic, the "specialty" tools were all high-priced items and had to come from Snap On, Mac, OTC, etc. Now - the Chinese are making them dirt cheap. They don't look as pretty, but most work fine. I used to pay $20 to $40 for just one Snap On offset angle wrench. Now - you can buy an entire 14 piece set from Harbor Freight - 3/8" to 1 1/4" for $20 - and that is pretty amazing. I've got several of those el-cheapo sets and they are fine. Each wrench is an open end on both sides and both ends the same size. But, one end is offset at a different angle than the other - usually 60 degrees and 30 degrees. This allows you to flip the wrench, over and over, to get a grab on a hex in places where you can't turn much. Harbor Freight ITEM 30064-0VGA

In regard to the controller and adapter in the two photos I posted. They came off an 82. I could grab the controller with an angle wrench no problem, but the pot-metal felt like it was going to break. So, I took out the two little bolts instead, and took it all off. I then stuck it in a vice, applied some heat to the pipe threads at the adapter, and the control came right out.

By the way, many of the problems associated with the older controllers were caused by the pin-connectors, not the internals. Sometimes a good cleaning and addition of some anti-corrosive compound is all they need.

 

[hank66]

jdemaris, thanks for the additional info. I am assuming the plate with the two bolts that holds the controller has a gasket, since the controller is exposed to coolant.

Am I correct on that point? Or does the controller tip with threads sit down in a well in the head without coolant flowing around it?

 

[jdemaris]

Wrench on controller photos

With engine in vehicle, there is not enough room to swing a vice grip or open end wrench if one is trying to access the flats.

A few photos showing plenty of room with an offset wrench. Also, a few other tools I've got that work fine - including a 12 point and a 6 point Crow's Foot.



(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)





(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)




(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)




(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)




(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)




(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)




(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)

 

[jdemaris]

jdemaris, thanks for the additional info. I am assuming the plate with the two bolts that holds the controller has a gasket, since the controller is exposed to coolant.

Am I correct on that point? Or does the controller tip with threads sit down in a well in the head without coolant flowing around it?

It had a gasket originally. Just use some room-temp-vulcanizing compound and you'll be fine - i.e. RTV sealant.

 

[hank66]

OK, thanks so much for the photos and the quick response. Now I have a bit more confidence; I need to get a few more tools.

Thanks to all.

 

[Fred482`]

Yes the plate has a gasket, available from NAPA. The bolts are 15mm hex, I've not seen a 3/8 on a 6.2. Remove the plate, chuck it in a vise, the plate has two ears that allow it to wedge against the vise jaws. Remove the controller with a deep socket or wrench. Plug the hole with a pipe plug. If you have a scrap engine handy, remove one of the flat block-off plates from one of the early heads that didn't use the inhibit switch and replace the one you took off with the one with no hole.

 

[jdemaris]

Yes the plate has a gasket, available from NAPA. The bolts are 15mm hex, I've not seen a 3/8 on a 6.2.

I was using more common figures in case the guy does not have a lot of metric tools. A 3/8" diameter bolt is basically the same size as a metric 10 mm diameter bolt which is what holds the plate on. The bolt head is 15 mm and 19/32" and either a metric 15 mm wrench or a 9/16" wrench work fine. 'Sometimes, with worn metric bolt heads - a 9/16" socket works better since it fits slightly tighter. Same goes with injectors - 30 mm socket or 1 3/16", either fits fine. Some companies sell some of their sockets with dual markings - metric and SAE designation.