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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't know what genius decided to make these threads so small, or use non stainless :mad: At least put a boot on the damn things. Finding the right ring terminal, which supports the right wire gauge and stud gauge isn't easy.

I searched and didn't find good advice about this, so for anyone looking, if the 8mm nut turns, but doesn't come off, STOP immediately. Take a pair of long needle nose pliers, grab the end of the threads, and pull the entire thing straight out. This will leave you with a clean shot to the 12mm hex section.

If you are unfortunate enough to snap the ring terminal, like I did, I think it's a 12-14 gauge wire, with a size 8 stud. You might find heat shrink ones at Home Depot in the electrical department. If not, order them online. I'm also going to use adhesive lined heat shrink to support it.

Stainless flanged nuts are almost impossible to find. I will likely use a stainless nut and washer combination, which should also prevent the terminal from corroding onto the nut.

 

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So glad I dont live in a rusty State..
 

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Your lucky you got the plug out.
I snapped off the terminal and then twisted off the glow plug nut! #8 cylinder drivers side up against the fire wall. No hope of removing it with out removing the head from the truck.
What genius puts steel glow plugs in aluminum heads?
Should be like changing spark plugs a simple maintenance procedure turns into your worst nightmare.
 

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Trick I was taught with MB's was to bring car up to operating temp . Also spray day before with Kroil. I have never broke one off (YET, knock on wood)
 

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Just had to do my first glow plug on the dmax. had to pull #5 due to DTC thrown. Easy to do since I did oem filter delete.

Just remember when you remove the glow plugs, always run the engine up and then leave to cool enough so you can work on it safely. when installing the glow plugs, put some copper grease on the threads in the head and also on the nut. Don't forget, they don't need to be GOD TIGHT. just run in with your fingers and probably 1/8 turn tight if that.
 

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this would be my worst nightmare. i have 4 i need to change out, but i am just way to scared to try it one day ill work up the courage to do it.....i hope
 

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2015 Silverado 2500 HD 6.6 Duramax LTZ
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Found this interesting, give it a try....

Penetrating Oils Machinist's Workshop Mag recently published some information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.

They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen*

No Oil used .................. 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ....238 pounds
PB Blaster ................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF* - Acetone mix..........53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "mix-your-own-brew" -- 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.

*ATF = Automatic Transmission Fluid
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Forgot to mention. I fixed the terminal by properly crimping on an Ancor marine grade ring terminal. Don't recall the size off the top of my head. I put some friction tape on too, so it looks stock :)
 

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I don't know what genius decided to make these threads so small, or use non stainless :mad: At least put a boot on the damn things. Finding the right ring terminal, which supports the right wire gauge and stud gauge isn't easy.

I searched and didn't find good advice about this, so for anyone looking, if the 8mm nut turns, but doesn't come off, STOP immediately. Take a pair of long needle nose pliers, grab the end of the threads, and pull the entire thing straight out. This will leave you with a clean shot to the 12mm hex section.

If you are unfortunate enough to snap the ring terminal, like I did, I think it's a 12-14 gauge wire, with a size 8 stud. You might find heat shrink ones at Home Depot in the electrical department. If not, order them online. I'm also going to use adhesive lined heat shrink to support it.

Stainless flanged nuts are almost impossible to find. I will likely use a stainless nut and washer combination, which should also prevent the terminal from corroding onto the nut.

I like the SS idea but yea good luck finding them!! So did you just use a regular ss nut and lock washer? I was thinking of double nutting it to? Have to change #7, but just going to do the entire side while its apart.
 

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I found them on Ebay but they were all over seas..... So I ended up using a SS flat washer-lSS ock washer- SS regular nut... Put never seize on and hoping for the best...
Overall was pretty simple job. The terminal nut broke off #7, but plug itself came right out. 1 and 5 came apart no problems. #3 felt like it wasn't going to break free so I left it alone before something bad happened..
 
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