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I'm not too worried about the glow plug relay, since it's a relatively cheap fix, but from a conceptual view...

My '82 has push-button glow plug activation. Recently, I'd bend down to press the glow plug light, hear the relay *POP* (or *THONK*, *PANG*, whatever sound effect you want to use) but the "glow plug" light on the dash wouldn't illuminate for a couple of seconds. Then, the light would show and the truck would start.

This past week after being out of town, I hit the push-button, hear the *POP* and NO "glow plug" dashlight...plus, the truck would turn over but not start. :(

Tonight, after seeing the thread on using jumper cables to bypass the relay, the "glow plug" light immediately came on and the truck fired off triumphantly.

MY QUESTION IS...why would I hear that heavy-duty *POP* without the glow plug relay working? Does the jumper cable trick bypass the relay, or my manual push-button switch? Is a new glow plug relay needed?
 

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Internal wear on the relay contact disc and/or bolts. Fairly common on the '82 system. Replace the #560580 relay.
 

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The relay is activating but the internals are burned up or corroded and are not making a good connection so it won't feed the power to the glow plugs like it should. If you change the relay you will be good to go
 

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My relay went haywire too. It had intermittent varying voltage going out of it.
The noise is confusing -think it sounds like it's working -but inside its burnt out.
 

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Yup, with a test light.

Check for power in, then check for power out when you push the over ride button.

I'll bet the relay is done ....
 

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having the same issue but a brand new relay
"Brand new" does not mean it's good. Parts have been known to be bad out of the box.
You have to test it.
 

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Yup....

Full manual over ride, 60g glow plugs ... go forth and diesel on ...
 

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Put another ford style in. They are a hearty beast!
 

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Yup....

Full manual over ride, 60g glow plugs ... go forth and diesel on ...
I figured you would say that. I gotta figure that out. The write-ups are good. but with mine being an 82, some things are a bit different. plus I am still trying to figure exactly what the past owners have done.
 

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Actually 82 is the easyist. Those with the solenoid on side fender. You run power to a push button switch, and from the other side you run it to the solenoid. Just disconnect the spade plugs, one side will come from the switch, the other is a ground.

Doing an override on the other styles reguires running battery power to solenoid, then another to existing relay, plus the push button wiring-harder to get lengths right first time too.

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
 

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So pretty much break the connection in the power line going to the solenoid and ground the switch and the solenoid? It was confusing because every thread I was looking at was on newer trucks.
 

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Yes, that easy on the old trucks.

There are 4 conections to your relay, 2 high current and 2 low current controll.

You want to put the switch in the low current controll side. One side of the controller side gets grounded, should be that blue wire but I'd check it, and the other gets switched power from inside the cab.

Now to tweak your brain a bit, you can do it the other way around too, conroll it by switched ground. You put straight power to the relay then put your switch on the ground side. I like doing this cause you can find all sorts of places to ground from under a GM dash, they even made a nice lil 8-10 spot strip on the right hand side.
 

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Your switch will also last longer if you trigger on ground side. If possible you always want to switch ground.
 
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