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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got my gauges in today. Boost works fine, except the light does not come on. I think its a bad ground. I don't know if I wired this right, but to save wires and knots etc, I spliced the two white and one red (light wires and red pyro wire) together as well as the three black (ground wires fromt the light bulb and the pyro gauge). I just grounded them on the screw inside the fusebox though, so I think that is my problem. So now I have all the ground wires into one terminal, and all the "juice" wires from the light bulbs and the pyro in one terminal. I think my proble is that I where I grounded them (on the screw found in the fuse box) is not a suitable ground, because the lights do not come on. Does anyone know which fuse is the one that controls your light switch, so that when you turn all your lights on, your gauge lights will come on too.

As for the boost gauge, everything works except for the light. Under WOT I have yet to make it to 5psi. Under normal acceleration it does not even budge off of 0. You really have to let it wind up to get off of 0. Any comments? Was your stock truck like this too?




Thanks, Jacob
 

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Ah....no way, hosay (hoser)...... red t\c wire to negative(-) gage, white t\c wire to positive (+) gage, lite wires to lite wires, and never the twain shall meet.

One wire from each lite to ground, other wires to panel lites in courtesy center under dash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
gmctd;1539517; said:
Ah....no way, hosay (hoser)...... red t\c wire to negative(-) gage, white t\c wire to positive (+) gage, lite wires to lite wires, and never the twain shall meet.

One wire from each lite to ground, other wires to panel lites in courtesy center under dash.

Maybe I am thick, but I do not understand what you are saying. The two wires coming from the back of the pyro are black and red. Are you saying that the red is the negative? What do you mean by "negative gage and positive gage". Why can't you have all the grounds together and all the positives together. Where are you supposed to get your juice if you have three different wires that need power? That is why I thought putting all the similar wire together would work out perfect.

Where are you supposed to hook up the lights on the gauges so that they come on when you turn your light dial? Under the dash, I thought you had to tie it into the fuse that operated that selected function.

I am confused.

Thanks, Jacob
 

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If you have all positive wires to a switched 12 volt circuit and nothing works then check your ground.

For the lights you need to disconnect the lights from the gauge power and hook them into the wiring for the panel lights. Several ways to do this. I tapped into mine behind the switch.

Basically it's up to you, it needs to connect to the opposite side of the switch from the power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So you are saying that I can have all of my grounds spliced together going to one ground, and that I can also have my two white (light bulb wires from gauges) spliced together into one. I thought there was a fuse in the fuse box that worked with the light nob. Where do I have to tap into so that when I turn my nob for my lights the gauge lights come on too. That is where I am confused. Any Pics


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Should be listed in the fuse box cover or owners manual.
I'll go check mine.
 

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it's 14 - illumination
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Will that work, what I am doing putting all the grounds together, and all the wires that need power together and putting everything into one for saving of wires and headaches? So you say that if I put one of those little things that hooks onto the ear of the fuse that extends above it so that you can plug in a male terminal containg all of my wires that need juice it will work.

Thanks, Jacob
 

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As long as your gauges that need power have 12 volts.

lights connect to the illumination circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Where do you have your pyro wired to? I guess I will have to break out the volt tester. I think you are right, it is either 14 or 15 one of those in that area. By wiring into that fuse my gauge lights will come on when I turn my light nob on, but if my red pyro wire is also wired into that fuse will it too only come on when my nob is turned? If this is all right, I think all my problem is is a bad ground.

Thanks, Jacob
 

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You need to read above again.

The lights go to the illumination circuit.

The gauges that require 12 volts need to be connected to a switched 12 volt power source.
 

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So in other words there need to be two power wires. Lights, and 12 volts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
O.K. sorry for my stupidity, I am a novice at this. I understand now. The two white wires coming from the lights on the gauges can be spliced together into one terminal and put into the illumination fuse. The red wire from the pyro gauge that needs 12v has to be attatched to a fuse that comes on when the key is turned. Finally, the two grounds from the light bulbs can be spliced into one terminal and grounded well at the same place as the negative wire from the pyro gauge.


Thanks a bunch for your patience, Jacob
 

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You got it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Good

Thanks a lot, I really appreciate it.

Jacob
 

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Jacob,

I'm glad you're asking all the questions and getting the answers because I'm going to be going through the same thing when I get around to installing my gauges. I'm slightly a head of the game because I already have a boost gauge that I will just be able to remove the tube from it and put it on my new AutoMeter Ultra-Lite, but I didn't bother wiring the light for it, so that will be new. I'll also need to wire power to the trans temp and pyro, which I believe I have figured out.

So thanks for asking, I'm learning too. :)

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
No problem. I think I have it figured out now, I fixed it this morning, but now the only problem is that the truck doesn't start due to the -5 degree F temperature. Guess its time to plug her in. I will keep you posted if my wiring worked or not. Did you paint your pod? If so what color and color code did you have?

Jacob
 

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I have not painted the pod and don't plan to. I kind of like the contrasting black against my beige interior. I believe the colour codes are in the glove box. I just wouldn't be able to tell you which one it is.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
My wiring works fine. Changed the ground this morning, plugged the truck in for a little while and she started up and pyro worked fine. Temps seem high though, at 15 seconds of WOT temps soared to 1100 degrees. The boost gauge on the other hand has to be at WOT for it to even read. Not much boost is being made in my truck obviously. I haven't even touched 5psi yet. Nothing a little turbo master can't fix though. Will take pics a warmer day.

Jacob
 

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I would be very careful trying to generate too much boost with your stock exhaust. It's pretty obvious by your pyro that you are generating a lot of heat and it doesn't have anywhere to go. If you start producing more boost, you will produce more heat. I would seriously think about getting a 4" exhaust system before you do too much else.

A 4" exhaust system and high flow air filter (K&N extra) will help your turbo spool up quicker and produce more boost. Then you can start tinkering with a manual boost controller.

Just my .2 cents.

Dave
 
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