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Discussion Starter #1
First let me apologize for posting here. I attempted to post in the do it yourself forum but received a message stating that there was an issue and I could not post there.
Anyway I am in the process of installing an Autometer boost gauge and an Autometer Lunar Series Pyro gauge in my '03 Duramax. I would rather not splice into the dimmer wire (looks like it's a pain to get to). After searching the threads for a couple of hours I think the easiest way is to follow Wayne's suggestion below:

(There's 2 places you can access the dimmer circuit if you don't want to tap any wires. It's available at Relay Block I/P (MBEC) connector C5, 2nd connector from the right on the top row of connectors. Dimmer power is on pin F, the lower-right pin. The MBEC is the junction box under the dashboard to the left of the steering column that a trailer brake controller also plugs into.)

Due to some of the horror stories on the threads about people short circuiting their dash lights while trying to find the correct live pin I wanted to be sure that didn't happen. Please see the picture in the link below and let me know if the blue arrow is pointing to the correct pin. This is the box that Wayne is talking about:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/geneo_griz/detail?.dir=7fa0&.dnm=d522re2.jpg&.src=ph

P.S. I hope this link works so you guys can see the pic. I tried inserting the image but only a box with an x appeared.
 

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Why not just tap into the brown wire coming out of the dimmer switch?? Is it really that hard to get to?
Thats what I did, its not that hard to get to. Its about a 5 minute job.
 

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Genester,
That's the correct plug and pin location.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for replying guys. The reason I didn't want to tie into the dimmer wire is for one reason I read in here that it is the brown wire, then I saw somewhere else in here that it is the brown and white striped wire. Well when I looked under the dash while attempting to lay in the floor board I noticed multiple brown wires and they all seem like a pain to get to. I guess if something like the dash panel was removed it would make it easier but I'm not sure how to do that. Don't want to force anything for fear of breaking it. Thanks Deitz for confirming this pin. Have you installed one on this pin before?
 

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Genester,
The trim plate around the dash, radio and gauges comes off hard, but just be careful and it comes off ok.
Yes, I have used a tester on that pin to make sure it dims, and powered my EGT and boost gauge lights off of that pin. Works fine. Good luck with however you approach the dimming.
 

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On my 03' it was a brown with white stripe, as stated above it's easy to get to just pull the dash bezel off and the dimmer switch also pulls out.
 

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I don't remember the color, I removed the bezel and pulled the cluster out and used a light tester to find the correct wire. I'm sorry I didn't state all of that in my first post. Good luck on the install.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Gauges Installed!!!!

If anyone happens to check this thread anymore then I just wanted to let everyone know that I installed my gauges and they appear to be working normally. I tied into the dimmer pin that Wayne was talking about in the black box on the left side of the brake pedal. The only quirk is that I purchased a Lunar series Pyro from AutoMeter and just a regular Boost gauge from Autometer. The boost gauge dims normally with the dash lights. But the Lunar series pyrometer does not seem to dim. I have to keep my dash lights on brighter than I prefer in order for the Lunar series pyro to illuminate. If I slowly turn down the dimmer the pyro will begin blinking and finally the light will go out. Yet it comes back when I turn up the dimmer to just about full brightness. Hmmmm.... maybe the Lunar just is not supposed to dim.
Anyway I could have never installed these gauges without the help of all the posts that you guys submit. Thanks!!
 

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If anyone happens to check this thread anymore then I just wanted to let everyone know that I installed my gauges and they appear to be working normally. I tied into the dimmer pin that Wayne was talking about in the black box on the left side of the brake pedal. The only quirk is that I purchased a Lunar series Pyro from AutoMeter and just a regular Boost gauge from Autometer. The boost gauge dims normally with the dash lights. But the Lunar series pyrometer does not seem to dim. I have to keep my dash lights on brighter than I prefer in order for the Lunar series pyro to illuminate. If I slowly turn down the dimmer the pyro will begin blinking and finally the light will go out. Yet it comes back when I turn up the dimmer to just about full brightness. Hmmmm.... maybe the Lunar just is not supposed to dim.
Anyway I could have never installed these gauges without the help of all the posts that you guys submit. Thanks!!
Pretty much the same thing here. I took power from teh same pin as you, and teh gauges don't follow the instrument cluster. They dim *some* but are alot closer to just on/off. Also, the pyro dims better than the boost. I am going to try a few different locations and see what works best. The pin on the relay box seems like it would work fine...I used a volt meter and watched the voltage drop to zero with the dimmer switch, but the dimming on teh Autometers sucks. Oh well, at least the guages are in...
 

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Mine seem to dim normally. When/If it ever warms up I'll check which wire I used. I opted to use a light tester instead of voltometer.
 

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Mine is brown and white and works perfectly. 2 cents worth...
 

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:exactly:
 

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Mine is brown and white and works perfectly. 2 cents worth...
I thought it was a striped wire but I couldn't remember the colors. :) You saved me from taking half of my dash out to see. :thankyou2
 

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Discussion Starter #15
RedRiceEater and Mad, I think you guys have a different model of pyro gauge than the Lunar series that I have (by autometer). RedRiceEater your signature shows that you have the Ultralite series. I know the dimmer works for those. But my pyro gauge is the new Lunar series. These are the ones that are not handling the dimmer switch. I found a few other threads with others having the exact same issue. My ultralite boost gauge dimms without issue. Thanks for replying!
 

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I have the Ultralight II series and I believe they back light like the Lunars do. Mine will fad in and out with the dimmer switch. The gauges are a little brighter than the dash to begin with so they are not really ever at the same brightness.
 

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If its a lack of power going to the lunar you could use the dimmer feed going into a relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I think I'll just live with it. I like to run my dash lights somewhat low. So if all it is going to do is turn off the light on my pyro then that's fine. The boost gauge follows the dash light so I will still see that. If I'm concerned at night about the egt's then I will just turn up the dash lights. I spent a few hours installing this thing and said many bad words in the process. This isn't something I do for a living so it's probably a bit more tedious for me than for most of you guys. However I'm extremely mechanically inclined and got it all working. Since I have made all of the mods on my truck myself I have had to setup two other of my friends trucks with these mods. I'm getting good at it. And since I had to return my BullyDog Outlook monitor 3 times I got really good at pulling a-pillars and running wires from the dash through the firewall. Oh yeah, because I had to pull the a-pillar so often the plastic leg that clips into the metal snap finally broke. BullDog acts like it's no big deal to just send back the Outlook yet it does require a bit of work to remove and reinstall. A dealer wanted $165 to do this so you can imagine the cost to have them keep removing and reinstalling it. Thats why I always figure out things myself. It gives me ammo when the wife questions the finances, I can tell her how much I saved! :)
 

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I am getting close to breaking that same plastic piece. Everytime I take it off now I make sure I squeeze the clip back together with some pliers, it seems to be holding up better now that it isn't slipping when I take it off.
 

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Genster, if there is any plastic left on the inside of the pillar you can use piano wire or copper wire for hanging pictures to secure the a pilliar, mine is not broken but is striped I drilled two small holes on either side and laced wire through the metal thing a few times to keep it secure, only thing is I am not sure how i will get it off the pillar now if I need too:confuzeld :banghead:
 
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