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I've finally convinced myself to replace the fuel lines tank to ip. Lines at the tank were a pain, but patience is all you need. Now I'm trying to remove the lines between the lift pump and ffm. I thought it would go smooth, but there getting hung up right where the transmission and engine meet. If course you can't see a single thing up there. I managed to get a nut off of what I thought was the bracket holding the lines. It didn't help me out at all. I've been wrenching on the lines longer than I'd like to admit, and I'm taking a break before I ruin something out of frustration. Any tips from those who have done this before? I'm starting to think it can't be done without dropping the engine.
 

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I have done it and was in the same situation you are in now. I do not remember what the trick was. Seems like it was hung up on the stud on the transmission housing.

Hopefully somebody will chime in with a better answer. I got away from it before I got the sawzall out and when I went back at it, things went better.

I also had trouble getting the clip back on the stud
 

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So it sounds like you had to remove a nut to loosen a bracket though. Could it be that the bracket separates from the bell housing now, as opposed to the hoses coming loose from the bracket???
 

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What vehicle are you working on?
 

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That bracket is held on by 2 nuts, they suck. You got one but you have to get the other. I think both hold bellhousing on and on mine the whole bolt came out instead of just the nut. I think I got a sawzall up there and hacked the crap out of it to finally get that bolt out when I was changing my engine. The bracket wasn't going back anyway as lines were toast
 

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Oh yeah. I remember better now. I had to find a thin wrench to hold the stud to get the nut off
 
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
OK, got them changed out, and I figured I'd share what I've learned.

First tip, make sure you are level headed before starting the work, should go without saying, but that was my main issue. If you are replacing the lines from the lift pump to the tank, just drop the tank. It can be done without dropping the tank, but it's not that hard to drop it, and your hands will thank you.

So on to what I was hoping to learn from this thread. The lines between the lift pump and the FFM have two pieces. Rubber hose that is connected by hose clamps at the FFM side, and the factory pieces from that to the lift pump. Take the rubber hose from the FFM completely off, it will help you see what you are doing. I was trying to feed the new 3/8 hose down with the factory pieces so I could attach the new steel pieces below the engine and feed it back through. DON'T TRY TO DO THAT, it won't fit.

The fuel lines on this side are held in place by two brackets. The clip in bracket seen on the side of the transmission, and a sort of loop bracket that attaches to an engine stud about 6 inches below the glow plug relay, which you can barely see from above the engine. Don't leave the transmission clip in bracket attached, find the nuts to take it off. One nut is directly above the oil filter on a stud next to the wiring harness. The other one is very difficult to find, but if you follow the lines with your hand you will likely find it. It's actually on the same stud as the other "loop" bracket that you can see from up top. You can get the nut off with some extensions and a "U" joint adapter. The two nuts are both 13.

That's really the trick, you will think you have room with the bracket attached, you don't. And you may not see the "loop" bracket, but it's there, and it's going to get in your way if you don't remove the 3/8 hose. I wrenched on the "loop" bracket a lot and may have stretched mine out a lot, so it might be more of a headache for you than it was for me. But to install the new lines, slip the steel lines through the loop bracket, then install the clip bracket back. Clip your lines in and attach your hose for the FFM up top.

I know people aren't changing out their fuel lines everyday, but I hope it helps somebody. The problem is there are so few steps and connections it seems like it should be easy... Just be patient, it's not bad, but it's not easy.

PS: Get a set of small hands to help, you aren't getting the nut off the upper stud without them
 

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OK, got them changed out, and I figured I'd share what I've learned.

First tip, make sure you are level headed before starting the work, should go without saying, but that was my main issue. If you are replacing the lines from the lift pump to the tank, just drop the tank. It can be done without dropping the tank, but it's not that hard to drop it, and your hands will thank you.

So on to what I was hoping to learn from this thread. The lines between the lift pump and the FFM have two pieces. Rubber hose that is connected by hose clamps at the FFM side, and the factory pieces from that to the lift pump. Take the rubber hose from the FFM completely off, it will help you see what you are doing. I was trying to feed the new 3/8 hose down with the factory pieces so I could attach the new steel pieces below the engine and feed it back through. DON'T TRY TO DO THAT, it won't fit.

The fuel lines on this side are held in place by two brackets. The clip in bracket seen on the side of the transmission, and a sort of loop bracket that attaches to an engine stud about 6 inches below the glow plug relay, which you can barely see from above the engine. Don't leave the transmission clip in bracket attached, find the nuts to take it off. One nut is directly above the oil filter on a stud next to the wiring harness. The other one is very difficult to find, but if you follow the lines with your hand you will likely find it. It's actually on the same stud as the other "loop" bracket that you can see from up top. You can get the nut off with some extensions and a "U" joint adapter. The two nuts are both 13.

That's really the trick, you will think you have room with the bracket attached, you don't. And you may not see the "loop" bracket, but it's there, and it's going to get in your way if you don't remove the 3/8 hose. I wrenched on the "loop" bracket a lot and may have stretched mine out a lot, so it might be more of a headache for you than it was for me. But to install the new lines, slip the steel lines through the loop bracket, then install the clip bracket back. Clip your lines in and attach your hose for the FFM up top.

I know people aren't changing out their fuel lines everyday, but I hope it helps somebody. The problem is there are so few steps and connections it seems like it should be easy... Just be patient, it's not bad, but it's not easy.

PS: Get a set of small hands to help, you aren't getting the nut off the upper stud without them
Added to the FAQs :thumb:
 

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A picture

I just finished this myself. The bottom of that bracket was accessible with a 13mm racheting wrench.
 
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This is some good stuff to know.
thank You Winkler for posting it up.
 

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Sorry, I should have previewed my previous post. The link didn't work. Try this one:


The good news is that this fixed the jerking at cruising speeds problem I had (it got so bad it was damn near un-drivable). The first thing I notices was after I finished purging the air out of the system my lift pump ran very quietly. Air in the lines makes them run noisily I guess.
 
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The first thing I notices was after I finished purging the air out of the system my lift pump ran very quietly. Air in the lines makes them run noisily I guess.
The lift pump definitely sounds very different when it's not getting enough fuel or fuel with bubbles.
 

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... and a sort of loop bracket that attaches to an engine stud about 6 inches below the glow plug relay, which you can barely see from above the engine.

I was able to leave 'loop bracket' installed and just slipped new hose over the ends you see here in the pic.

I'm a small dude @ 5'9"/130# and this was NOT easy. If I ever have to go at this area of engine again, I'll be getting a topside creeper.
 

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Top side creeper is awesome for working in that area. Kinda a hassle to store but made it so much easier to work back there I think its worth it.
 
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