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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Hey Guys!

My first post here. I'm upgrading my '90 v-1500 Burb with front end and steering upgrades, to a PSC gearbox, ORD box brace, cross-over steering w/hydraulic ram, beefed front axles/u-joints, Kingpins, new ring and pinions, 35" M.T. tires, selectable hubs, etc.

I pulled my OE steering box awhile back and made a real rooky mistake. I didn't bag & tag small parts and can't remember if there are any spacers that go between the box and the frame. I'm now ready to mount the new box and I've been looking for a picture somewhere that might show me the mounting hardware, but no luck so far.

Can anyone help?
 

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Welcome to DieselPlace
I moved your post over to the 6.2L section for more appropriate views and responses to your issue

:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks OK Diesel! I appreciate you pointing me in the right direction!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks so much highdesertrange! I couldn't have asked for a better picture than the one you drew for me! I was thinking that those spacers went between the gearbox and frame because of the not so flat mounting surface on the back of the box. You wouldn't happen to know off hand what size they are (length) would you? Anyway, thanks so much for your most welcome help!
 

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Hold up, back up. Your V1500 doesn't have king pins. Are you swapping a 60 in? If so that makes sense. You dont need hydro steering with 35's, save your money and time. Why are you changing ring and pinion? Don't like your gears? 4.10/4.56 is just fine for a 6.2 with OD.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks! Ment to say knuckels. Why hydro steering? Because I want it and 38" may be in the future. I've always been a belt and suspenders guy anyway, especially when the term "off-road" enters the picture. I believe a gear change from stock street gears to something like 4:10 would help the 6.2 off-road (mud/sand/snow), with a locker at the rear. It's going to kill fuel mileage but then UCV (Urban Combat Vehicle) rules apply here.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sorry, forgot to mention that the new knuckels are because of the addition of 'cross-over steering. Normally only the stock passenger side knuckle would have to be replaced, but the drivers side has been damaged. I'll sleep better knowing that a new one sits in its place. Thanks roadhog0!
 

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I wheel and F'd up lots over the years so this is just my opinion.


You can dump some money into a 10B for axles, stubs, LSD, knuckle for cross over .... for what you can get a 60 for with some upgrades of it's own, the 2 downsides of a 60 are added weight & a slight loss of ground clearance.


Now a real plus's to a 60 is, waaay bigger bearings, and if you do a lil machining you can pull the outer hub & stub as 1 piece if you happen to do something fun enough to F up an axle or U joint in a 60, on trail repairs are pretty easy.







Hydro assist can be done at home with a DIY steering box end cap and drilling and taping the top cover, after that it's just hydraulic line and a 2x8in ram.



I would defiantly get a steering box plate and frame re enforcement bracket, ORD is a great source.




IMG_6448.jpg


IMG_6449.jpg




My lil off road toy. 89 V1500, 350, 465, 241, 60&14, front quick lock, welded rear, full hydro steering, 21.5X16.1's.


IMG_2761.jpg




:bigglasse
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nice lookin rig! The whole thing looks really cool! I've been considering going to a 60 and still can, but I'm thinking that for the 6.2 that I'm running a built 10 bolt would be just fine. I see 38's in the future, although not on this Burb unless I swap out the 6.2 for something healthier. Thanks for your input and the pic!
 

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hey Prop blast I just noticed you are in southern Nevada. I am just across the river in Mohave Valley, AZ most of the winter. let me know if you need any factory parts I have tons of them. highdesertranger
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hey highdesertranger! Nice to hear that your close-by! I made have to send up a flare when I get to crankin on that diesel! Not much experience w/oil burners. Good to know that I've got a fellow knuckle-buster near!
 

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Personally, I'd swap to the 60 and not throw money at a 10b. You'd be impressed what you can break with just a 6.2 and some gear multiplication with 38's. If you're going the regear route and 38's I would say run 4.56. The 4.10's are happy at about 33-35" tires in my opinion. I also have OD, so there's that.

I gotta finish building my 60 and get it in the darn truck.......
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited by Moderator)
You guys have really got me thinking again about a 60. As a matter of fact, I was just getting ready to order the new 4340 axels for my 10B but I've put the brakes on that plan to reconsider the whole thing! What's causing me to reconsider is:

1. Cost vs. end result.
2. The desire for something larger than 35's in the future.
3. Possible future engine upgrade.

I think Y'all may have just kept me from making a huge, hard to reverse, mistake. The jury is still out but at least everything is at a stop until I'm fully convinced one way or the other. I might have just been getting lazy thinking that I've already got the 10B so why not just build it. Now the belt and suspenders guy is talking to me with much longer range future mods in mind.

If I go with the 60 I'll be staying with the cross-over steering plan. I've already got a PSC gearbox that's set up for it and cyl assist anyway.

Glad I joined this forum! If for no other reason than you guys have already caused me to rethink my plan! Thanks (I think)!

P.S.
My V-1500 has an 8 lug wheel pattern (although 10B front and rear) and I think it's what they called a "Heavy Half Ton" back in the day. Would that have any effect on the mods I'm making?
 

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Not a whole lot of difference between a 6 and 8 lug 10b other than the stud count, everything else is the same. With your tire size going up the bearing life will go down so I would strongly push you to a 60.

If you do go to a 60, make sure you get the passenger side spring plate as it is unique to a 60 but you can buy them after market.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for your advice Bigboytoys! It's really appreciated! As said you and others here have definately got me rethinking my whole plan, at just the last minute. But that's OK! I'd rather scrap plans rather than trying to get a refund on parts after the fact. What I'm hearing so far makes perfect sence, and I'm having a hard time now convincing myself to work on the 10B!
 

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Considering you can get a 60, bolt in, for 800-1000 compared to dropping 600-800 in a 10 bolt, it's a no brainer to me. I have been ignoring a bad ball joint in my 10b for like 35k miles because I'm putting a 60 in. Maybe it will actually happen this winter lol!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yup I'm with you on the gearing. I had planned on the 4.10 set anyway with the 35's, which is probably still the way I'll go if going with a 60. It wouldn't be a big deal then to change a gear set to match a set of 38" sometime in the future. I'm really starting to like the idea of a 60 the more I learn about it. Of course, that would call for a 14B rear or something similar. I know what you mean about getting things done. I was shooting for installation of my steering box today. Managed to work on alot of other things for other people and never got to it! Oh well, manyana right?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yup. Know what you mean about the winter months in Wa State! I was stationed there for awhile at FT. Lewis. I lived in Or. during my H.S. years (Western Or. between Waldport and Corvalis. Now living in S. Nevada and wish I was back up there every summer when its 115+ in the shade here. What makes it worse for me is that I live in a MHP with no garage, just a carport, and have to hide my work to get around the Park rules! Their real generous when it comes to handing out 3-day notices for the smallest offence and tend to watch certain people (like gearheads) more than others. I want to move but it's complicated and looks like I'm stuck here for awhile. Swapping out to a 60 will be a major problem because of that so I may have to bight the bullet and farm the work out when it comes time.
 
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