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Discussion Starter #1
Went the FAQ section and searched.

Found brake jobs on a 1500 truck and a new 2500.

Both totally different monsters from this truck.

Anybody have pictures or insight on how to get the spindle off our trucks.
 

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Why would you want to take the spindle off to perform a brake job? Are you referring to the caliper maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i ment rotor and hub assembly. My mistake.


Long day.

Sorry
 

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remove axle nut first, then caliper, then the 4 bolts on the back of the spindle, if mermory serves me correctly they are 18mm but i could be wrong (it has been a few months) disconnect abs wire (if equipped) and tap the hub assembly off. once off lay if flat and knock the wheel studs out then remove the rotor. One hint. don't forget about the dust shield when putting the hub back on.
 

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remove axle nut first, then caliper, then the 4 bolts on the back of the spindle, if mermory serves me correctly they are 18mm but i could be wrong (it has been a few months) disconnect abs wire (if equipped) and tap the hub assembly off. once off lay if flat and knock the wheel studs out then remove the rotor. One hint. don't forget about the dust shield when putting the hub back on.
15MM on the four hub retaining bolts, not 18. Just did one yesterday.

And use caution when driving out the studs as to not break the wheel speed sensors. And I recommend pressing in the studs.
 

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Be careful

This was one of those jobs that even though I knew what to do, I eneded up having to pay someone else.

I sprayed PB Blaster on those four hub retaining bolts for three weeks. Gently taping and hoping to start to loosen up the years of road grime. I just couldn't get more than one bolt off on each side. I tried all the tricks but they wouldn't budge with my back yard mechanic hand tools.

One word of caution: be careful as you jack the truck up. These things are heavy. Even though I have the correct jack stands, that didn't stop them from sinking in to the ashphalt.

Remember to check the wheel bearing while you have everything apart. Chance are if the rotor needs replacing so does the bearing. Of course the bearing is part of the whole assembly due to the 4x4.

The pictures in the DIY section are really close and a good guide.

Good luck.

Binky
Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #7
yea i have all new rotors and wheel bearing assembly's. Im going to heat the hell out of them.

I also have a good 3 foot breaker bar im hoping to be able to use.

Lots of leverage.
 

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One thing I learned when replacing wheel bearings is don't skimp. I did one side with an AC Delco, other side wasn't available so I got an Autozone one for $50 less. It lasted only two years, probably less than 15,000 miles. When it went it broke right in two. Other side is still holding up fine, so I replaced the broken Autozone one with AC Delco.

My truck carries a retarded heavy plow in the winter, so my front wheelbearings are overworked. Way too much money and labor to skimp on parts. As I recall, it does suck to get those 4 bolts out from behind. I stripped the head off one, had to heat it and drive a socket onto it hard.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
hopefully heating will help alot.


hope this goes good this weekend.

or else i am screwed
 

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be sure to use a 6 pt socket on your breaker bar. Block to the frame for when you are jumping on the 3 foot bar. use neverseize putting it together cause the next guy will appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
welp brakes went quite well. 4 bolts on each side came out no problem. big breaker bar 6 point socket and some muscle did the trick. no heat needed. New pads rotors and hub assemblys.

But i must say this is quite the stupid design because every time you want to do brakes. You need to take the hubs off and drive the studs through to have the rotors cut.

But it is done.
 

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welp brakes went quite well. 4 bolts on each side came out no problem. big breaker bar 6 point socket and some muscle did the trick. no heat needed. New pads rotors and hub assemblys.

But i must say this is quite the stupid design because every time you want to do brakes. You need to take the hubs off and drive the studs through to have the rotors cut.

But it is done.
the half ton trucks have rotors that come off when the caliper is removed.no need to removed hub.been a while since I worked on a 3/4 ton.Don't they have the same design s the 1/2 ton?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
not at all. the rotor is behind the hub assembly.

so the studs have to come out to release the rotor from the back. Then the hub needs to come off the spindle to get the rotor off.
 

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not at all. the rotor is behind the hub assembly.

so the studs have to come out to release the rotor from the back. Then the hub needs to come off the spindle to get the rotor off.
My '00 2500 with the new body style was the first release of an 8 bolt wheel pattern with a floating rotor. In 2000, I couldn't even get a 2500HD, let alone both 1/2 doors on the ext cab. So, she's a 3 door EC.

So, any 8bolt lug pattern on the '99 and newer sheet-metaled trucks have the rotor easily removed.
 

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One thing I learned when replacing wheel bearings is don't skimp. I did one side with an AC Delco, other side wasn't available so I got an Autozone one for $50 less. It lasted only two years, probably less than 15,000 miles. When it went it broke right in two. Other side is still holding up fine, so I replaced the broken Autozone one with AC Delco.
I have the ABS light on on my 05 4x4 2500. Dealer says driver front is bad ($25 diagnosis) but told me the sensor can't be replaced alone you must do the whole hub assembly... I told him I knew better and asked if the bearing was bad or just the sensor. He said he wasn't sure what the tech meant...some confidence...anyway I had to get to work so I left. Later, I found a new OEM hub on Craigslist for $100. Since this was cheaper than buying just the sensor and my truck probably needs a bearing soon anyway (40k miles with 35" wheels) I bought it.

Now reading this post about that says "other side wasn't available"... does that mean the hubs are side specific or they just didn't have 2 at the dealer?
 

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Now reading this post about that says "other side wasn't available"... does that mean the hubs are side specific or they just didn't have 2 at the dealer?

When there is a sensor in the hub generally they are side specific and in your case they are.
 

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yard mechanic hand tools.

One word of caution: be careful as you jack the truck up. These things are heavy. Even though I have the correct jack stands, that didn't stop them from sinking in to the ashphalt.

Good luck
Best way to stop this i've found....old rotors...placed/welded to the axle stands....they provide a much large base for the stand, thus providing more stability and more surface area = less holes in the father in laws driveway... :p
 

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Yea... We ended up gettin crafty eh Pete? The old man isn't happy with jack stand marks in the driveway, then during a moment of stoned ramblings "HEY! Why don't we put the taurus rotors under the jacks?"
"Hey! There's an Idea!"

:D

Who says old rotors are garbage.
 

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I just did the ones on my 93 k2500hd. po must have taken apart before. only 1 bolt holding bearing on dr side 2 on pass side SCARRY I was driveing that way for 5000+ miles. The 4 bolts holding the bearing on were locktighted from the factory. My suggestion would be to break the rotor with a hammer then heat corner of the bearing red hot before you even try to remove the bolts. Buy new bolts from the stealer[$6 each] anti-sieze bolts before you install
 
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