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Discussion Starter #1
My current company pickup is a '93 Ford F250, x-cab, longbed, 4x4.It's got all the bells and whistles, including Hypermax turbo.


I am shopping new to me (used) company pickups. The man that will decide loves Dodges. Me I am not so sure. Obviously your gonna say I will love the enge, but what about the Quad cabs, do they hold up, or are they a weather stripping, rattleing, ear freezing, nightmare?


Is the turning radius on the Quad long bed as bad as the Ford?


I have a tough time going away from Ford, I had an '89 F250 got stuck once, got a '97 Chev. K2500 got stuck 6 times first year, Went back to the '93 and never been stuck. Chev, doesn't work for me, I figured the Dodge solid axle should be as good as the Ford in the snow.


Anybody else made the jump?? Thoughts? There is a '99 quad cab, loaded, 24 valve 52K miles, long bed, I think I can get for $19K. That is an okay price, but what do I get for that price?
 

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I made the jump from a Chevy to a Dodge - My ONLY complaint is the size of the rear seat in the quad cab. I've got 95,000 miles on it and the only problem I've encountered that wasnt due to my own BOMBing was a leaky rear pinion seal. I've had a nagging problem with the brake switch wires coming loose on the pedal switch also. I can tell you that the stock clutch wont last long at 400rwhp. Other than that, its been a great truck - I'd buy another in a heartbeat.


I've been and still consider myself a Chevy fan... But thats turning around... Had it been an automatic equipped truck, this post would likely not been as positive...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I want the auto.


I know there are lots of problems, but are the rebuilds holding up well?


Thanks for the reply!
 

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Traveler said:
My current company pickup is a '93 Ford F250, x-cab, longbed, 4x4.It's got all the bells and whistles, including Hypermax turbo.


I am shopping new to me (used) company pickups. The man that will decide loves Dodges. Me I am not so sure. Obviously your gonna say I will love the enge, but what about the Quad cabs, do they hold up, or are they a weather stripping, rattleing, ear freezing, nightmare?


Is the turning radius on the Quad long bed as bad as the Ford?


I have a tough time going away from Ford, I had an '89 F250 got stuck once, got a '97 Chev. K2500 got stuck 6 times first year, Went back to the '93 and never been stuck. Chev, doesn't work for me, I figured the Dodge solid axle should be as good as the Ford in the snow.


Anybody else made the jump?? Thoughts? There is a '99 quad cab, loaded, 24 valve 52K miles, long bed, I think I can get for $19K. That is an okay price, but what do I get for that price?
Why were you getting stuck? Bottoming out? This past winter I had a 86 Fullsize Blazer... solid axle. I was continually getting stuck in the piles. The snow was nasty last year. The solid axle pumkin kept getting high centered in the snow piles i was slamming.Edited by: hoot
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A couple of problems I had with the chev.


It feels light, when you drive it, I can hop in those Fords, lock in 4x4 and run down the interstate at 70 on snow, and Ice. The chev. did not feel as stable, scared me. I think because the engine was snappy, and the truck was lighter it would break traction easier.


As far as getting stuck, I had countless problems getting the front hubs to engage, sometimes I would run down the road a mile or so before they both caught.


The front end with the IFS felt like a ramp, I would hit a drift, feel the front end come up and I knew I was done. Get out and shovel. It's like there is too much surface area and the front tires would hang. Look at it, it looks like the bottom of my kids sled under there.


The harder I hit the pile, the more stuck I got. I should have just shoveled the whole thing to start with. My wife had a Bronco II at the time, it did better than the K2500.


I am not knocking GM, but in my situation, with the 43 miles I drive 1 way everyday, the GM just didn't work for me.


Does the pickup still have a stagger front to back like your Blazer does, that is one problem. The front end sits wider, so the rear end does not run in the same tracks. The short wheelbase of the Blazer always killed me, too squirmy.


I want a big heavy truck with a long wheel base.


This will be the first winter with the Grand Cherokee, that will be interesting.
 

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I had a guy buy my used 93 chevy diesel. He was a plasterer and had plow truck for the winter. Back the (95) he said he liked the GM's better for plowing. He had too much trouble with the Fords.

The axle engagement is an easy fix. I replaced my unit with a newer solenoid style.

I agree with you though on having a bigger heavier truck for that kind of work. The Ford Superduty is a nice stout setup with the straight axle although there are those that would argue the newer HD GM's aren't too shabby in that department. Big improvement over the C/K's.

That Blazer I had was a joke when it came to ramming snow. If the plow wasn't straight on, it's easy to hit and go sideways. Snow wins.... truck loses.
 

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No squeaks or rattles (other than under the hood) here! I did have to tighten the driver's rear shock because it was banging around. The interior clips have fabric similar to the fabric side of velcro that really seems to eliminate platic to plastic squeaks.


The quad cab turns short enough to make parking in small lots easy. I've never driven a Ford, so can't help there.


The Cummins engine is heavy, so you definitely need clearance to keep up out of the deep snow. Currently I'm running 315s so we'll see how they do this winter. Previous Dodge CTDs have done very well for a full size pickup. Just remember it IS a full size rig, not a jeep CJ when off road. When on road in the winter
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys, I drove it today. I think I will give it a shot if the numbers work out.
 

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Traveler said:
I want the auto.


I know there are lots of problems, but are the rebuilds holding up well?


Thanks for the reply!

Good question - Everyone that I know that has a tranny built by Bill Kondalay of DTT loves it and is getting good life out of them. I've had the oppurtunity to drive a couple of trucks that were approaching 500rwhp with DTT trannies and all I can say is it was breathtaking... Their not cheap though..
 

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Traveler said:
I know there are lots of problems, but are the rebuilds holding up well?
My DTT rebuild is holding 460horse with no problems after 10 months and 20k. The stock auto is pretty good as long as you dont add any power, pull regular maintenence, and dont tow more than its rated for.

A good friend of mine bought a 94 F250 5spd with the turbo 7.3IDI. He bought it with 177k on it and has put another 15k HARD miles on it logging this summer. It sure is holding up well, just has acouple rattles. Makes me wish I had a 5spd because it sure is fun to drive even with only 195 horspower. Edited by: Overvalved
 

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Overvalved said:
Traveler said:
I know there are lots of problems, but are the rebuilds holding up well?
The stock auto is pretty good as long as you dont add any power, pull regular maintenence, and dont tow more than its rated for.


Where is the fun in that?
 

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Max Power said:
Where is the fun in that?
The fun is going WOT for the first time with an EZ and stock tranny hopping she'll hold
. Luckily mine did for 10k. Edited by: Overvalved
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So I still have some questions.


What's up with the tranny cooler, it looks like they plumb coolant to the tranny instead of the fluid to a remote cooler. They wouldn't do something that silly would they? Can you add a external cooler?


Seems to wander a little, Is that fixable?


The get up and go was less than impressive, my 7.3 IDI will spank that thing. I think my 6.2 Suburban would give it a good run. I understand it is stock, but is that normal?? With all the hype I was expecting so much more. Not sure what the rear end ratio was, but I guess it was mid 3's maybe?


The front end, is there no unlockable hubs? What are the wires going to the front axle?


Seemed there was a lot of brake drag on the front end, both sides felt the same, so I guess this is normal?


The truck seemed solid over some pretty rough roads, no rattles. The turning radius is incredible compared to the Ford. You sit up in the cab nice, I like the big flat seat. Visibilty was great, don't like the mirrors. Nice big fuel tank. Felt stable and well balanced.


There were some flaws in the paint, not the best quality at the assembly plant.


Carfax came back clean, and they are giving me excellent trade in. I don't think I can pass it up, most likely tomorrow I will be driving a Dodge.


Thanks Guys.
 

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I dont know what you mean about the tranny cooler? Mine has a cooler mounted infront of the radiator and a heat exchanger on the passenger side of the block.

The wander is probably from a wearing track bar. I have 56k on my truck and it is still pretty tight. The balljoint that connects it to the frame wears out and the whole unit needs to be replaced.


99's with autos were 215 horse 460 TQ and probably has 3:54 gears. What size tires are on it? Not the best for an accelleration contest and I think the max trailer weight is only a little over 9000lbs.

There are no selectable hubs, It has a Center Axle Disconnect CAD. The passengers side axle is a 2 piece unit with a sleve that slides to connect them when the Tcase is shifted into 4x4. Those wires and hoses control the acutator and sleeve. It sounds weak but I've never had any problems with the system and it is easily swapped to a manual setup if necessary.

99's had rear drums which really arent that good, they carry a very small percentage of the load compared to the front discs.

If you do buy it be sure and have the fuel pressure checked because the fuel transfer pumps tend to go out often on 24valves and the early ones even more so. Also it would be good to look into getting the Dowel Pin tabbed so it stays in its place and doesnt end up in the timing gears.

HTH
Zach
Edited by: Overvalved
 

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Traveler said:
The get up and go was less than impressive, my 7.3 IDI will spank that thing. I think my 6.2 Suburban would give it a good run. I understand it is stock, but is that normal?? With all the hype I was expecting so much more. Not sure what the rear end ratio was, but I guess it was mid 3's maybe?

We can fix that pretty quick with a new fuel plate, 370 injectors, and an PDR HX-40
 

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Big Russ said:
We can fix that pretty quick with a new fuel plate, 370 injectors, and an PDR HX-40
Or a Drag Comp, some mach 3's and a PDR HX-40
 

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Overvalved said:
Big Russ said:
We can fix that pretty quick with a new fuel plate, 370 injectors, and an PDR HX-40
Or a Drag Comp, some mach 3's and a PDR HX-40




Oooops... I thought he said '96...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Dowel pin tabbed? how big of a job is that?


I have warranty till like next march on the engine, I knew about the fuel pressure, but is there something to complain about to get it done under warranty. I knew about the fuel pressure.


Tire size is stock, it has the OEM tires, street tread.
 

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Traveler said:
Dowel pin tabbed? how big of a job is that?
It isnt that big of a job, but if you've never done it or seen it done before it can be intimdating. I dont know where you are located but there are many KDPJigs and people and shops who have experience doing this.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well I pick it up tomorrow morning. If I hate it, I am going to blame you guys.


Is there any cheap mods I can start with? Gauges will come soon, but Can I add a Tranny cooler? if the current cooler lines are that big, with a normal cooler hurt instead of help? Tranny temp gauge, pyro, and boost?


Is there any home made Idle controllers out there? I do a lot if idleing and jumpstarting with the truck, I made one for my 7.3, and it really helps.


I hear very little turbo whistle, are they that quiet?
 
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