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Perhaps this is no great discovery, but today I had to drill a few holes in the frame for a new trailer hitch, and after blasting my triceps laying on my back pre-drilling one small hole that would have to be further enlarged in steps to 5/8", I realized I'd either have to find a better way or break out the torch. After a moment of head scratching, I grabbed the floor jack and with a gentle touch, it worked amazingly well.
 

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Not bad, i use snap-on bits so i get them warrantied, i just put the drill on hammer mode and that works good too. Rough on the bits though, good thing i do alot of business with snap-on or the dealer would tell me to get lost.
 

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Interesting technique.

How do you hold the drill and the trigger?
 

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And how exactly did you come up with your screen name?:D
 

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Turbotug;1592034; said:
And how exactly did you come up with your screen name?:D
Probably involved the phrase, "Hold my beer I'm gonna try something".

But then again, I'll bet most of the guys on this site have lost a few finger tips or at least had blackened finger nails at some point....myself included.

If I could have used the jack-all or floor jack propped up against the wall to drill the horizontal frame holes for my 5th rails frame brackets, I would have!!!!
 

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Turbotug;1593199; said:
Plasma cutter!
This method works well for starting pilot holes in stainless also. I mark the hole with 2" cross so I can line up the nozzle on where I want the pilot hole. It's fairly accurate + or - a 1/16 or less after some practice:D
 

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Ditto on the magnetic drills, but also expensive. I have used a second person and a pipe. Wrap a chain around the frame and pipe, push the pipe against the drill.
 

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I just have someone else do it. Easiest way I've found.:)
 

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IF you get your drill bits warrentied your very lucky.
 

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Drill Doctor, works like a charm!
 

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thumbsmasher;1591335; said:
Perhaps this is no great discovery, but today I had to drill a few holes in the frame for a new trailer hitch, and after blasting my triceps laying on my back pre-drilling one small hole that would have to be further enlarged in steps to 5/8", I realized I'd either have to find a better way or break out the torch. After a moment of head scratching, I grabbed the floor jack and with a gentle touch, it worked amazingly well.

Yep dude, that process works awesome. Did the same a few years back when drilling threw a 5/8" thick drop bumper. Nothing better than when drill upside down and having all the hot chips stick to your bare arms.
 

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thumbsmasher;1591335; said:
Perhaps this is no great discovery, but today I had to drill a few holes in the frame for a new trailer hitch, and after blasting my triceps laying on my back pre-drilling one small hole that would have to be further enlarged in steps to 5/8", I realized I'd either have to find a better way or break out the torch. After a moment of head scratching, I grabbed the floor jack and with a gentle touch, it worked amazingly well.
Drilling metal, especially hard metal, requires force, not RPM. Running your drill at full bore is just going to blow the drill bit and make everything much slower. Apply lots of force to the drill like you did, and go at a slow RPM.
 

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Are you not worried about the bit grabbing and spinning the drill itself? Even at slow speeds it will grab when the hole is almost done, grab, auger down, and start to spin the drill.
To eliminate this problem you could clamp a 1/4" piece of scrap metal on the back side so that the frame (or the metal needed) will get the hole drilled and then the scrap metal will then take the bit over. This will also leave a nice clean hole on both sides.
 

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On a 1/2' bit going through two 1/4" thick frame rails, I usually pause briefly twice, 3x through each wall, then go again. Try to think of it as an isometric workout. Power drill, slow speed, and elbow grease!
 
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