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Discussion Starter #1
Hey gentlemen,

I've been looking for a Fluidampr that will fit this engine. My understanding is that it is from a deconstructed military Humvee.

I plan on replacing a 93 manually injected 6.5L with this one. From what I understand, this one should bolt right in and it is an optimizer engine block.

I'm not sure of the year on this motor, but I have posted a picture of the engine number if any of you might help me with the model number of the Fluidampr that I need. I do not know if there is a difference for damping in a manually injected as opposed to EFI 6.5L engines.

Found a couple on ebay. the model numbers they put out are 800141 and a 800191, or what about a Fluidampr 890101 Pulley kit.

Keep in mind that I will being bolting on all the accessories from my 1993 Manually injected 6.5L -- INCLUDING the manual injection.

Thanks guys for any info. I appreciate your input.
 

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The 800191 is for mechanical pump...800141 is for electronic pumps, the 890101 is for 6.6 L Duramax engines. You can verify this by looking at the Fluidampr website.
 

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Either one will work...



You will need to remove the front cover on the motor, on a DB2 pump motor their is NOT a reluctor wheel behind the balancer their is a blank spacer..



On a DS4 electronic motor their IS a reluctor behind the balancer, this is where the computer gets a crank signal from..



Do this, remove the balancer that is on it now, remove the front cover, take a pic and post it here so we can be sure..



The 800191 HAS the spacer used with a db2 manual pump, IF the balancer you pull off has a LONG snout and no reluctor then this is the one you want..


You DO NOT want the pulley kit, it plainly states it's for a duramax, you will use the same pulley you have on the 6.5...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The 800191 is for mechanical pump...800141 is for electronic pumps, the 890101 is for 6.6 L Duramax engines. You can verify this by looking at the Fluidampr website.
Perfect, I will call them tomorrow. My question is whether it hinges on just EFI or manual, as the replacement engine was EFI, but will be used with a manual pump. Thank you for the info tho, I'll search that website a little more thoroughly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Either one will work...



You will need to remove the front cover on the motor, on a DB2 pump motor their is NOT a reluctor wheel behind the balancer their is a blank spacer..



On a DS4 electronic motor their IS a reluctor behind the balancer, this is where the computer gets a crank signal from..



Do this, remove the balancer that is on it now, remove the front cover, take a pic and post it here so we can be sure..



The 800191 HAS the spacer used with a db2 manual pump, IF the balancer you pull off has a LONG snout and no reluctor then this is the one you want..


You DO NOT want the pulley kit, it plainly states it's for a duramax, you will use the same pulley you have on the 6.5...
I have both engines on stands now and just found the replacement engine, does not appear to have a chain drive, but a gear drive for the cam.

I was wondering what the electrical cable was to just behind the balancer on the replacement engine, that must be the reluctor wheel you're talking about. I wonder if I should leave it and use the DS4 dampr or pull the wheel out and use the the one for the DS2.

I will be putting new crank seals in the replacement engine. So I'll probably have to pull the reluctor out to get to that anyway.

I will post pictures of both when I get all the accessories off the original.
Thanks alot sctrailrider.
 

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How many wires does the CPS on the replacement engine have, 2 or 3?
 

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I have both engines on stands now and just found the replacement engine, does not appear to have a chain drive, but a gear drive for the cam.
Leroy diesel timing gear set? Older dsg?
 

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https://fluidampr.com/chevy-duramax/ Note there is a spacer used on the non electronic applications. The electronic version will have a reluctor spacer on the crank. So either will work on your application. Just use a spacer if the reluctor is not in place on the crank. If you see a reluctor on the crank you can just discard the spacer. Leaving the reluctor in place will not hurt anything. Measure it if all else fails. Oh! I doubt your engine has a gear drive, are you sure about that? The IP has a gear drive off the cam.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
https://fluidampr.com/chevy-duramax/ Note there is a spacer used on the non electronic applications. The electronic version will have a reluctor spacer on the crank. So either will work on your application. Just use a spacer if the reluctor is not in place on the crank. If you see a reluctor on the crank you can just discard the spacer. Leaving the reluctor in place will not hurt anything. Measure it if all else fails. Oh! I doubt your engine has a gear drive, are you sure about that? The IP has a gear drive off the cam.
Okay I'm sure there is a timing chain behind that plate now. My apologies, just don't have the anatomy of these engines down yet. Thank you for helping me clear that up. You are absolutely right gentlement, both Fluidampr 800141 and 800191 are exactly the same harmonic balancer.. After talking to their tech at Fluidampr the only difference is (as you said), that for the DB2 (mech fuel injection) part 800191 includes the spacer the 800141 is for EFI and does not include the spacer ala the reluctor wheel behind the balancer. I will just leave out the spacer as the Ted's engine is a 2004 and it has the reluctor. Thankyou,Thankyou, and Thankyou, that is solved:)
 

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I was under the impression that all 6.2 and 6.5 use the same fluidampr. mine came with the spacer and the instructions said if you have the reluctor disregard the spacer and if you don't have the reluctor use the spacer. highdesertranger
That's the way I remember it when I put the Fluidampr on my '93, mech. injection.
 

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The main difference between the two sets are in the roller chain sets.

You have two different types of chain sets. One WITH a reluctor ring, and one WITHOUT.

The reluctor ring is what the crank position sensor (cps) uses to count crank rotations.

The spacer in the 6.2 fluidampr set is used to compensate for the missing reluctor ring in the 6.2 roller chain set.

My advice; when working on a 6.x without the reluctor ring, when you service the timing set, use the 6.5 roller chain set (WITH reluctor ring). Install the CPS in the timing cover. Theres a press fit plug installed where the CPS goes.

This is the best way imo to gain a tachometer if you dont have one. Had I known that years ago when building my 6.2 I'd have done it like this to get a tach, and not the alternator. :facepalm:

So now whenever I build a 6.x I just use the reluctor ring sets and CPS for easy tachometer compatibility.

:thumb: hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The main difference between the two sets are in the roller chain sets.

You have two different types of chain sets. One WITH a reluctor ring, and one WITHOUT.

The reluctor ring is what the crank position sensor (cps) uses to count crank rotations.

The spacer in the 6.2 fluidampr set is used to compensate for the missing reluctor ring in the 6.2 roller chain set.

My advice; when working on a 6.x without the reluctor ring, when you service the timing set, use the 6.5 roller chain set (WITH reluctor ring). Install the CPS in the timing cover. Theres a press fit plug installed where the CPS goes.

This is the best way imo to gain a tachometer if you dont have one. Had I known that years ago when building my 6.2 I'd have done it like this to get a tach, and not the alternator. :facepalm:

So now whenever I build a 6.x I just use the reluctor ring sets and CPS for easy tachometer compatibility.

:thumb: hope this helps
JNL, thanks for your post, EXCELLENT IDEA :cool2: that is something that I've been thinking about. As I stated I am replacing the 93 with a Ted's pull which is a 2004 out of a Humvee. Fortunately, maybe (I've got to replace the front seal) the motor has that reluctor there, ie. there are some wires with a connector there, whereas my original motor does not have. I plan on bolting the original DB2 injector pump onto this motor and all the original accessories.

I want to do everything right the first time, because getting this monster in and out of the rear of the motorhome (pusher) has been an insane effort. I litterally have the back end jack way up so I could take it out from beneath. Well I'm getting off subject

You really got my attention about being able to put in a different Tachometer. I never realized how the tach was getting information. I never trusted the tach on this motor home as someone had mentioned they thought that the readings came from the alternator??? Am I thinking correctly that on a 93 tack comes from the oil pump?

I would love to put that reluctor ring to work for an additional tach. How would I go about that? Will that CPS wire up directly to a tach or does it require a power source as well. This is something I'd really like to do, and again thanks for suggesting that:)
 

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See post# 6.
Tach signal on a 93 comes from the alternator.
The ESS signal (oil pump drive) is just for the auto tranny.
 

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See post# 6.
Tach signal on a 93 comes from the alternator.
The ESS signal (oil pump drive) is just for the auto tranny.
That is exactly right for a '93:thumb:. And if your alternator goes bad, measure the pulley on the old one and compare it to the rebuilt/reman. one. Needs to be the same for the tach.
 

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ArchiacAeronaut; they're right. The OEM signal comes from the alternator. But...

?? I thought you can get an easy tach from the cps?

So can you NOT??!

I did it the alternator way on the 85 to get a tach signal. It wasn't fun. Vdo diesel techs are expensive. It just makes sense to get it from the CPS as well...

I'm not talking about the OEM stock setup.... you should be able to add an aftermarket tach using the cps...

Anyway I haven't tried it yet personally but I dont see why it wouldn't work. :confuzeld at some point in time I'll end up giving it a shot on a mechanical...

Has anyone else tried it??
 

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T

My advice; when working on a 6.x without the reluctor ring, when you service the timing set, use the 6.5 roller chain set (WITH reluctor ring). ps
Might want to change this advice as the two gears are keyed differently and affects timing. >https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/21-6-5l-diesel-engine/886194-crank-sprocket.html

This may be the only place on the net where you can see the key timed differently.

Aren't you glad I brought that up?
 

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Well then I stand corrected. :facepalm:

I may still try it on my 85 at some point. Just to see.

Thanks for that dp.

How about using a CPS as a quick tach signal? Curious. Ever tried it?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Okay, okay, I already changed out alternator on this rig. I read something about the alternator being the tach source after the change:facepalm: I don't even remember which pulley size I am using now. I have never trusted the tach since. I have heard changes in what I think is engine speed or transmission shifting with no change in tach! I wanted a higher output alternator for the motorhome batteries and I think the larger pulley was on it last.

OMG I HAVE LOST TRACK OF MY TACH and soon my mind:eek:

I want to use the cps out put on the new engine to privide a tach if able. What does an aftermarket tack need to operate? Sorry, kind of crazy today trying to help son out with timing belt kit and radiator fan problems on his vehicle and time constraints.

Hope you guys are having a better weekend:)
 
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