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Discussion Starter #1
i would like to change the trans fluid in the 95 my self is it as simple as droping the pan letting the fluid drain out and the filling it back up through the dip tube or am i going at this all wrong any ideas tips would be awsome ive always taken my trucks to trans shops for this type of work and would like to learn how to do it
 

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Do it yourself.:exactly: You described the procedure correctly. Have a pan gasket and filter on hand with 7 qts of fluid. You will not need all the fluid but will hate yourself if you are short. The only tricky part is the filter seal. It will have to be chiseled out ( sharp wood chisel carefully tapped with a small hammer ). If the filter snout fits into seal snugly, you can reuse seal.
mike
 

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Discussion Starter #3
right on thanks for the advice im gonna give it a shot now i know how much fluid to buy that was gonna be my next ? thanks again
 

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IMO use a new seal. I replace my fluid, filter, and gasket every fall. I'd never re-use the gasket, its only a few bucks, and you can usually buy all 3 items as a kit.
 

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I went to GM and got the plastic one with the embossed o-ring seal in it. Works great and no leaks. Plus it's re-useable and doesnt have to be chiseled off like the cork ones.
 

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I was speaking of the filter seal not the pan gasket. I take it you guys never looked at it.
I realized that about 10min later, nonetheless it was to late to edit my post. lol. :ro):lol:
 

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I knew which one you were talking about, I was just saying the GM pan gasket is a much nicer alternative to the cheap cork ones that come in those kits. But that seal on the filter can be a B---H to get out, mine had been jammed way up inside from previous filter changes and was a mother to get out.
 

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I knew which one you were talking about, I was just saying the GM pan gasket is a much nicer alternative to the cheap cork ones that come in those kits. But that seal on the filter can be a B---H to get out, mine had been jammed way up inside from previous filter changes and was a mother to get out.
I agree about the filter seal and that is why I said if filter fits snug, reuse original seal. The GM oem pan gasket ( reinforced rubber ) is rated at 15 pan drops before it needs replacement. Reuse this gasket as it is the best.
mike
 

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Pop in a drain plug, too, while you're at it. Costs about $10 and worth its weight in gold the next time you want to change the tranny oil.

SnowDrift
 

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I'd take a look at the tourque converter and see if it has a drain plug. If it does you can get a lot more fluid out than just the pan. The more the better. I think there is about 18 quarts in the tranny.

Frank
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thanks for the input everyone im goin to the dealership on saturday to get every thing necessary
 

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Just let the tranny sit there without a pan, filter, or the cooler lines hooked up for about 24 hours! Censored That drip - drip will suddenly let out about a quart more :eek:

That's what mine did and I'm sure having moved my drain collector to under the oil pan helped.-:t
 

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Discussion Starter #16
To get all the old fluid out you really should flush the system.
im thinking that a flush is a better idea seeing as i have no history on the the truck its gonna be cheaper in the long run at least i know what i need to do a basic fluid change
 

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Not a fan of the flush method here...

Things to consider: Your filter doesn't get changed, your pan doesn't get cleaned, your pan magnet doesn't get cleaned, your using high pressure to move fluid (an opportunity to move pan debris through the trans). I lost 4th gear in a Cutlass within 30 minutes of using the flush method, first and last time I'll use it.

I'm doing my trans service on my 3500 DRW this weekend. I work the bolts out from the forward end and work back so that the oil pan will drop slowly toward the front. I try to get as much oil out as possible out of the pan while having one bolt about half way out at the rear. Then take the last bolt out and the pan can be handled with little spillage. Take the filter off and put it in the catch pan. Put a large catch pan underneath and let it drain overnight. Clean the pan and magnet with a degreasing solvent and then let it airdry overnight. This keeps lint and cloth fibers out of the pan.

Take the filter seal out with a plastic or wooden chisel or leave it in with the new filter if it's tight. You can use Vaseline as a lubricant, it will dissolve safely into the oil (if you need a lube to install, you could also use the trans oil). Clean the pan gasket and don't bend it, it is a far better gasket than the cork in the kit. The stock gasket is intended to be reused over and over again as long as it isn't damaged.

Next morning, install the new filter and seal if you are using it, install the pan and all the bolts. I don't torque them yet, just snug (if you overfill, you will have to take them out). Fill up with 5 quarts and do a dipstick check. But first, need to have the parking brake applied, start engine (FOOT ON BRAKE), run through each gear at 15 sec interval and back to Park. Check dipstick level, add as needed and run through procedure again. When you are in the crosshatch area you are good. Torque pan bolts and check for leaks. I believe the spec is 120 inch pounds of torque which is pretty loose but you have to remember that you are dealing with aluminum threads. If you still leak at the torque value do a quarter turn on all the bolts and that will usually fix it.

A aftermarket pan will have a drain outlet (handy!), some will have a bung welded in for a temp sensor (important for towing), and the castings will have fins built right in for cooling. They will hold several more quarts of oil and will add rigidity to the transmission case. They aren't cheap but a good investment in my book.

Regular service I do is at 40K miles, if you are towing a lot or heavy weight it will probably need to be a lot sooner than that.

Regards,
Mike

Edit: Changed torque, was 20 in error...
 

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You can still flush after pulling the pan and replacing the filter. Button everything back up, pull the fluid line at the radiator, start the motor and begin to drain into an oil pan. Once you have a quart or two drained add another quart or two to the tranny and repeat until the dirty fluid begins to look new. Replace the cooling line top off and your done.

Pulling the pan only gets about 1/2 the total fluid.
 

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oldsmike

Very good post.
Thanks, Mike!

I know just enough about transmissions to get myself in serious trouble!:lol:

And then I have to rely on the experts to get me out of trouble!
:help:

Regards,
Mike
 
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