Tim I can not thank you enough. I have been waiting for a write up like this for a LONG time. My lights have been burnt out for 3 years already. Can't wait to finally get them back working. Thanks,
Nick
Nick
Fix those burnt out dash lights!!!
6
Well, I've been searching this forum for an answer to the pesky problem of those burnt out radio and HVAC incandesent lights. Sadly, very few people have actually attempted to fix the burnt bulbs as they are actually soldered on to the circuit boards. So, my electronic savy buddy and I have finally finished replacing the lights with LEDs and I can not write up about it.
You can decide for yourself if you would like to replace the bulbs with LEDs or with stock incandecent bulbs. I chose the LEDs because they have a 100,000 hr life span, and the stock lights have a 3,000 hr span. The problem with LEDs is that they are a very directional light, so you will notice bright spots and dim spots once complete. They do sell 360 degree LEDs, but I didn't feel like ordering them. I did not research the availability of different colored incandecent stock lights, but I do know that the LEDs are easily found in about any color you can dream of. Try ordering from www.superbrightleds.com.
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)
A quick guide:
Step 1: Remove the HVAC controls. If you haven't been behind the dash, it's quite easy. Put the Steering column all the way down, put the automatic drive lever into 1st gear, and pull the front facia of the dash away. Then there are 2 screws to take out and the HVAC unit pops out. (It's also this easy to remove the radio... which could be a security problem)
Step 2: Dismantel the controls. Take everything apart. Take the knobs off, unscrew the 4 back screws and the 2 inside screws. Take a knife and carefully pry the large circuit board away from the backing.
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)
What your working surface whould look like.
Step 3: Remove ALL the INCANDECENT lights. Desolder the 4 back lights and the 4 button lights on the smaller board. My buddy basically headed up the stock solder while I pulled the lights out. Then clean the holes out.
Step 4: Install the LEDs. Make sure you follow the resistor chart for the size LED that you have. I needed 680ohm resistors for a 12V DC current. Solder the LEDs on to the board with a resistor connected to each LED as shown. Make sure that you have the polarity of the LEDs correct!!!
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)
Make sure to use the correct resistors
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)
Install the resistors on a common side.
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)
Loop the resistor to the LED and solder. One hole should have the LED positive. The LED negative goes to one end of the resistor, and the other end of the resistor goes to the other hole. POLARITY MATTERS FOR LEDS.
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)
Finished product.
Step 5: Reassemble and test. During reassembly TRIPLE CHECK that you do not have any crosses between + and -. THis can be done with an ohm meter. Infinity is good, zero is bad. Bring your newly assembled controls out and test.
For the radio:
THe process is much the same way, but I wish to make some suggestions:
1. Use 1/4 watt resistors for the LEDs (You will need the smaller ones because the clearance for them will suck when trying to reassemble). Also, use the smaller LEDs (I think they're like 3mm or something) as the clearance can be an issue as well.
2. The front face DOES actually come off quite easily. You need to take the bottom plate of the radio off and disconnect the connectors on the inside. Then you have a board that is easily worked on.
3. Get a socket that actually fits the screws on the back side of the face plate. A needle nose pliar sucks after a while.
4. Make SURE to double, triple and quadruple check that you did not cross any wires. I did on the radio while putting it all back together, and then I got a radio that did not work when the lights were on. I did find a remedy, so if you have this problem, then ask.
Sadly, I did not get pictures of the radio apart, so I will have to walk you through it non-visually if you need help.
Final notes: Please please ask me questions as to confusion. I wrote this while I was really tired, so I probable missed quite a bit.
Hope this helps!!!
I will get a final picture up tommorrow night.
You can decide for yourself if you would like to replace the bulbs with LEDs or with stock incandecent bulbs. I chose the LEDs because they have a 100,000 hr life span, and the stock lights have a 3,000 hr span. The problem with LEDs is that they are a very directional light, so you will notice bright spots and dim spots once complete. They do sell 360 degree LEDs, but I didn't feel like ordering them. I did not research the availability of different colored incandecent stock lights, but I do know that the LEDs are easily found in about any color you can dream of. Try ordering from www.superbrightleds.com.
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)
A quick guide:
Step 1: Remove the HVAC controls. If you haven't been behind the dash, it's quite easy. Put the Steering column all the way down, put the automatic drive lever into 1st gear, and pull the front facia of the dash away. Then there are 2 screws to take out and the HVAC unit pops out. (It's also this easy to remove the radio... which could be a security problem)
Step 2: Dismantel the controls. Take everything apart. Take the knobs off, unscrew the 4 back screws and the 2 inside screws. Take a knife and carefully pry the large circuit board away from the backing.
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)
What your working surface whould look like.
Step 3: Remove ALL the INCANDECENT lights. Desolder the 4 back lights and the 4 button lights on the smaller board. My buddy basically headed up the stock solder while I pulled the lights out. Then clean the holes out.
Step 4: Install the LEDs. Make sure you follow the resistor chart for the size LED that you have. I needed 680ohm resistors for a 12V DC current. Solder the LEDs on to the board with a resistor connected to each LED as shown. Make sure that you have the polarity of the LEDs correct!!!
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)
Make sure to use the correct resistors
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)
Install the resistors on a common side.
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)
Loop the resistor to the LED and solder. One hole should have the LED positive. The LED negative goes to one end of the resistor, and the other end of the resistor goes to the other hole. POLARITY MATTERS FOR LEDS.
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)
Finished product.
Step 5: Reassemble and test. During reassembly TRIPLE CHECK that you do not have any crosses between + and -. THis can be done with an ohm meter. Infinity is good, zero is bad. Bring your newly assembled controls out and test.
For the radio:
THe process is much the same way, but I wish to make some suggestions:
1. Use 1/4 watt resistors for the LEDs (You will need the smaller ones because the clearance for them will suck when trying to reassemble). Also, use the smaller LEDs (I think they're like 3mm or something) as the clearance can be an issue as well.
2. The front face DOES actually come off quite easily. You need to take the bottom plate of the radio off and disconnect the connectors on the inside. Then you have a board that is easily worked on.
3. Get a socket that actually fits the screws on the back side of the face plate. A needle nose pliar sucks after a while.
4. Make SURE to double, triple and quadruple check that you did not cross any wires. I did on the radio while putting it all back together, and then I got a radio that did not work when the lights were on. I did find a remedy, so if you have this problem, then ask.
Sadly, I did not get pictures of the radio apart, so I will have to walk you through it non-visually if you need help.
Final notes: Please please ask me questions as to confusion. I wrote this while I was really tired, so I probable missed quite a bit.
Hope this helps!!!
I will get a final picture up tommorrow night.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
I apologize for the blurriness... The night picture was taken with a REALLY crappy camera. It should give you the idea though.
Please note, I used WHITE LEDs. There is a blue backing to the controls that made the lighting come out blue. (I was actually going for the white dash like in a newer Honda Accord). But I enjoy the blue. When I get a better picture, I will change it out with this one:
![]()
Please note, I used WHITE LEDs. There is a blue backing to the controls that made the lighting come out blue. (I was actually going for the white dash like in a newer Honda Accord). But I enjoy the blue. When I get a better picture, I will change it out with this one:
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
