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2K views 32 replies 8 participants last post by  Bigboytoys 
#1 ·
Yall will probebly laugh but i just put a new solenoid in for the manual glow plug and now when i turn the key the solenoid clicks glow light stays on and if i try to push the button it shocks my finger
Im not dumb but not a pro any inaite would be awsome
Thanx
 
#2 ·
Welcome,

Here is a link that explains the glow plug override mod.
You can go back through the wires using this to help you sort things out.
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=340695
You can find more resource information listed in the FAQ at the top of the 6.2L page
:thumb:
 
#3 ·
Thanx

Hey thanx bud im still tryin to figure out were to go and were to post on the site. Thanx again for the link and the help. Im ganna check this out right now. Like i said i didnt install the manual button and i didnt change any wiring just unhooked the 4 posts on the solenoid and put the new one on.
 
#4 ·
I dont see this glow plug relay. I got the new solenoid from advance auto but the part # is 84017. Could the solenoid be stuck in the start position. I looked at the reveiws on the one i got and there was nothing good about it. I back tracked the wires and everything looks ok. I dont understand by just swithing the solenoid. It worked fine with the old 1
I got a pink with a black line wire going to the post labled S and a blue wire going to the post labled I. What is the blue wire for. Like i said i hooked it up the same way the old one was.
 
#5 ·
Yuuarrpy ....


Welcome to Diesel Place !! The Big Show !!


I would disconnect the small control wires that go back to the push button and key on and see what happens.


If it still runs the GP's it's a bad solenoid, if it doesn't then there is either bad wiring into the cab or a failed push button... cause I don't get how da F your getting shocked ...


:bigglasse
 
#6 ·
Shocked

Its got me stuped and not to mention p***ed off. I understand how it can shock me. Cause the button never had a button cover its the metal prongs behind the plastic cover. I sound stupid tryin to explain so ill add a pic.
Its never shocked me before.
But i dont have any money to buy a new 1. So im tryin to do this with what i got laying around. Will any push button work or is there a certian volt size or kind. This is my first diesel and im learning alot. Any help or advise is greatly appriciated. (My spellin sux i know) sorry for that.
And thanx im ganna unhook those 2 wires and see what happens. Well after i charge the batteries. I was tryin to start it lastnight and ran the batteries down. Im also trying to bleed the air out of the fuel line. I put new hose were the fuel comes out and goes under the intake. Thats what left me walkin about 4 months ago. Thanx bud.
 
#8 ·
Well there's your problem. Exposed contacts. You're basically putting your fingers on a live circuit and grounding yourself out.

Depending on the style solenoid you have you have a sinking or sourcing (wants a ground or power) circuit. If the solenoid has two small terminals, chances are you need to run 12v to it to energize it. If it has one terminal, chances are you need to ground it to energize.
 
#9 ·
Lost

Im still lost on this. The solenoid has to small posts just like the old 1. If its zapping me wouldnt that mean its already got power? And i thought the solenoid was grounded by the bracket that u mount it with. I just dont understand why the old solenoid didnt do this cause i didnt change anything. The wiring and the button is the same way it was when i bought the truck. Im ganna get a new button in the morning and try that. Myself i think the solenoid is junk. Ive read nothing but bad reviews about it. Thanx for the post bud. Like i said this is my first diesel and a first wrenching on 1. But im learning...fast. With the help from the pros at the diesel place. Cant thank yall enough.
 
#10 ·
So the control side of the solenoid takes very little current to run so just about any switch would work, hell, even a house light switch would be better than that... temporally though. I don't like non self returning toggle switch's cause you could bump it on and burn out the GP's.



From what I see, the 2 outer tabs, which are terminals for the switch are both grounded out to the dash, which is why the GP's come and stay on.


For new push button options a house door bell button would be a cheap one, as for 12V stuff, pretty much anyone will be fine.



:bigglasse
 
#12 ·
So the control side of the solenoid takes very little current to run so just about any switch would work, hell, even a house light switch would be better than that...
Funny you mention that.... My tractor has a light switch for the starter switch. I got fed up one day after replacing the probably fifth momentary switch. Went into the house, got a light switch, and a couple years later, that tractor still starts off a light switch. No regrets!



As for the topic at hand, the extremely easy way to test if the solenoid is working is to jumper from the incoming side of the solenoid (left side when looking at) to the S terminal. This should make the solenoid click. If not, solenoid is F'd.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=150997&stc=1&d=1466557249
 
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#11 ·
Like i said i didnt install the button its been like that for the 4 years i owned it. The red wire comes off the janky lookin button there and goes throught the hole in the dash and then out through the fire wall and then runs along the fire wall twards the passenger under the air intake were its pluged into a wire clip with 2 blue wires comming out the other end and then into the wire harness and goes i dont know were.
Then on the other side of the janky button theres a little black wire that comes off it and is grounded to the screw that holds the button in place. The blue wire is the ground for the aux. port the previouse owner installed. But the 2 wires that are hooked up to the solenoid r pink with a black stripe and a solid blue wire. Pink is hooked to the post labeled S and the blue is hooked to the post labeled I. Not my way of running wires. Guess im ganna have to go over to my neighbors house and barrow his doorbell button 🙂. Just kidding i wouldnt do that...but i would my brother. Thanx bud for the info.
 
#13 ·
Ahhh yes but no ... cause it depends on internal wiring of the solenoid.

Most 4 wire solenoids are not self grounding like the one pictured. The s and t terminals are interchangeable for activation and grounding. All 3 wire solenoids I have come across are self grounding so all you need to do is put power to s and it activates.

How to tell which 4 wire you have, hook up the main power in & outs then jump from power to s terminal, if it turns on it’s self grounding, if not, Put a ground on t and then jump power to s.

Now this is the simplest way to wire a non self grounding 4 terminal solenoid, not the best, but simplest.

Make a jumper wire with a 5amp fuse from the battery side of the high current terminal to s, take the t connection and run it into the cab to one side push button, the other side is simply grounded.

There are 2 down sides to this setup, first it’s feed power all the time so if the solenoid piles up it may just keep running the gp’s, second, your depending on cab & dash grounds for it to work which as all us GM guys know can get “funny” over time.

I do like this setup for 2 reasons, you can simply jump the gp’s on under hood by grounding t, and if your push button piles up in -40, simply take the wires off and short the S terminal to any steel part of the truck and the gp’s will turn on.

A better way it to jump t to ground, then find key switched power in the cab to 1 side of the push button, 2nd goes out to terminal s.

This can be done by key switched under hood power to S and the t back to the cab to ground.

This setup won’t accidentally turn on in the middle of the night when the solenoid piles up but depends on GM keys switched power which also can be “funny”

More ways to skin a deer for ya to think bout...
 
#14 ·
And I forgot ...


If it is a 4 wire, self grounding solenoid like the one in the pic, power coming from the push button to S is the only option to turn it on.


:bigglasse
 
#15 ·
Then there's also the odd 3 terminal grounding style solenoid like an older Ford. I've got one in my truck. You ground the trigger wire to activate the solenoid.
 
#16 ·
That's actually the most common.


:bigglasse
 
#17 · (Edited by Moderator)
What you're calling a solenoid is actually a relay. and its probably the wrong one. i just went through this on mine. The one you have is probably grounded wherever you have it mounted on the firewall...instead of being isolated..when in reality the push button is what should be controlling the grounding, so 12 volts will energize the relay and send 12 volts to the glowplugs. test the ground terminal of the relay to the bolt mounting points/cab of the truck/ground for continuity, i bet you will find thats the problem. this is the oreillys part number for the relay i had to use that actually works Part #: SS591. The one i tried to use and didnt work because it was grounding itself on the firewall is this one Part #: RY525. The ground on the relay needs to be isolated from the relay itself. so you should have a wire from the relay ground to the push button, and from the push button to a ground, so when you push the button it grounds the ground side of the relay.
 
#18 ·
Well there are more than 1 way of skinning a deer ... and the same with electrical.


Yes, that way is possible with a non self grounding solenoid/relay ... what ever ya wana call it.



IMO anything over 50A control becomes a solenoid.


:bigglasse
 
#19 ·
First..thanx to all thats helped me get this far..
Got the manual glow plug figured out. All i can say is f*** advance auto. The solenoid they sold me was fubarred from the box and wouldnt take it back or exchange it. So again no money for a new 1... so i went back to the old solenoid and i took it all apart cleaned it real good. Completely destroyed the little seal inside tryin to get it apart. Little bit of gasket sealer n put all back together. Hooked it up (and for shats n sillys i didnt change that eye sore of a push button that was shocking my finger before) and guess what it worked like brand new and it didnt zap my finger. Hellz yeah.
So i went ahead n put a new push button in. Looks alot better.
But... The story of my life with this truck so far..1 step forward and 4 steps back...
The truck still wont start.
It aint even attemting too. Just turns over and over and over....till batteries need charged.
Sooo..i thought it might have air in the lines cause i did finally put the new spin on fuel filter i bought 3 month ago. Ok first time doin the fuel filter ok live n learn i got air in it. Lesson learned. So started poppin the injectors bleedin the air out. Maybe i didnt do it right. I started on the right side front injector (standin at the front of the truck) and just went down the right side. All 4 injector drippin fuel good. Went to the left side front injector opened it and cranked for 13 sec let it cool for 5 min. Did that 3 times n it didnt even get wet. Closed it n went to the next injector and so on. Theres no fuel to the 4 injectors. Not a drop or even a wet spot. Any idea on the direction i need to go from here would be great.
Thanx again fellers
 

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#20 ·
Go to the kitchen ... hear me out cause I know I sound crazy... and get the Pam cooking spray....

Hit each side of the intake for 3-4 seconds ... and glow and crank... it’ll fire... repeat till it idles!!

Pam works like ether but DON’T EVER USE ETHER!!

Yes, you have a fuel system full of air and it’ll take a bit to burp it out
 
#31 ·
Pam is awesome and actually the cooking spray is really great stuff to.
 
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#21 ·
i like wd 40 mo betta. with the built in tube...

i dont cook with pam....or at all for that matter..

but less then 1/2 second squirts down its gullets...it can cause damage too if you hose too much fluid in there.....
 
#22 ·
but less then 1/2 second squirts down its gullets...it can cause damage too if you hose too much fluid in there.....

Or as Peg would say "down her throat hole"


Warning graphic language in this youtube vid



 
#23 ·
Rained out

Ok so i went n got some pam
Before i went to walmart after pam i pluged the block warmer in so it wouldnt b stone cold tryin to start it
Sprayed each side of the intake for 2to3 sechit the glow button for 10 sec or so and turned the key......and all i could hear was the truck crankin...n im yellin n bitchin she popped 1 time
So continued to spray and glow and crank her over. pretty sure i did it right ..spray each side of the intake for 2 to 3 sec hit the glow button and cranked for 15 sec then let the satarer cool down for 5 mins.the 4th time when i turned the key she popped, but that was it.sprayed and cranked till it got dark on me that and the batteries needed charged.
Was bumbed but happy at the same time.
Im learning something everyday about my diesel and im the 1 turning the wrench.(with yalls help of course.) I would of done sold it if not for the diesel place.
You guys make it sound as easy as tiein a tie.(something i cant do)
So im not sure what to do next.
But it rained all day today n i dont think water is my magic cure
so i decided today i was ganna wrench on my 6 year old daughters diesel.
She calls it her hemi turbo diesel
Super big thanx to all ya for the info and help.:thumb
 

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#24 ·
Ok so i went n got some pam
Before i went to walmart after pam i pluged the block warmer in so it wouldnt b stone cold tryin to start it
Sprayed each side of the intake for 2to3 sechit the glow button for 10 sec or so and turned the key......and all i could hear was the truck crankin...n im yellin n bitchin she popped 1 time
So continued to spray and glow and crank her over. pretty sure i did it right ..spray each side of the intake for 2 to 3 sec hit the glow button and cranked for 15 sec then let the satarer cool down for 5 mins.the 4th time when i turned the key she popped, but that was it.sprayed and cranked till it got dark on me that and the batteries needed charged.
Was bumbed but happy at the same time.
Im learning something everyday about my diesel and im the 1 turning the wrench.(with yalls help of course.) I would of done sold it if not for the diesel place.
You guys make it sound as easy as tiein a tie.(something i cant do)
So im not sure what to do next.
But it rained all day today n i dont think water is my magic cure
so i decided today i was ganna wrench on my 6 year old daughters diesel.
She calls it her hemi turbo diesel
Super big thanx to all ya for the info and help.:thumb
You are getting closer!.:thumb:
As Bigboytoys mentioned back in post #20 you're going to have a bunch of air to work out so keep trying that method.
Make sure your batteries are fully charged and ready to go and use the engine block heater.
You can also install a piece of clear fuel line on the return side of the IP to help watch for air in the fuel system.
Look in this link for info on how to install the clear line:
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/6...-5l-td-pmd-resistor-settings.html#post7305306
 
#26 ·
Thanx for the reply bud. I got a couple more questions for ya.
I wanna switch my fuel lines over to the hose. I know its 3/8
and 5/16. 3/8 is the supply line and 5/16 is the return? Is that rite? And the clear hose is that 3/8?
1.What kind of hose
(Brand...psi rating...
2.How many feet do u think i will need?
3.and any harware im ganna need.
The return side isnt under pressure rite? So wont that side be cheaper being smaller and no presssure? I know the higher psi rating the price per foot goes crazy high.(If ya cant tell money is tight...really tight.)
But i can see in 4 different places on the steel lines where there leakin. And thats without pressure behind it. And i was only under there for 5 min.
Im thinkin i should fix that or else ill be bleeding the fuel system every day. Rite.
I have read so much stuff on here. So im lookin on my truck as im reading this stuff and lets just say i have started a list and damn.
And the truck was a mess when i bought it(wires hangin, hoses leakin)
I was pokin arond the forums and found that bada$$ bbq regulator presurizer for ur fuel sytem..i can do that to get the air out rite? Im all about that. Stuff i got layin around my shop.
Now my question is do u have to use a bbq regulator or can i use a external inline regulator for a air tank??cause i got like 4 of those
Got 1 bbq reg. But its only got a line in and line out no place for a guage.
N i cant thank u and everyone thats helped get me this far.
Hands down
This site is the shizzle
But yall know that already uns r the ones that put it all together and keep the old diesels rollin.
 
#27 · (Edited)
In that link provided, the clear line is 1/4" and you can find it at any auto parts store in their lawnmower parts section.
It will be clear fuel line called (Tygon).
:thumb:
 
#28 ·
Legend 7 months ago was when it ran last. Left me walking on one of the hottest days we had this past summer.
Actually the day before she left me walkin, i worked on her all day dealing with the air in the fuel lines.I replaced the fuel filter and the line going into the filter and comming out of the filter. Replaced the hose on top of the IP. And the the hose that sticks up rite behind the air filter. I think it was the vaccume????
When i finished i cracked cylinder 1 to bleed air and made it to number 3 and she fired right up.
Didnt know if i was suppose to or not but i bleed the rest of the injecters with the truck running.
No problems at all it acually went pretty fast. So i left her sit n idle for bout 45 min n shut her down. Next day started rite up let her warm up a little bout 5 min. Jumped in n drove off....
I got bout 3 miles away from the house and she started sputterin and tryin to die and turned her around and started hualin *** back to get as close as i could and she said nope 2 1/2 miles from the house she layed down.
 
#29 ·
thats why i spray a bit on the valve with wd or squirty bottle with diesel. really 2 cylinders on each side at a time generally suffices.


sounds like you possibly may have in tank issues that plugged up the feed or an ip failure. plugged return can shut it down as well.

you verified that the gear is driving the injection pump i assume?


you have psi to the ip inlet?


one bank wet and one bank dry is odd. pump is rotary distributor... but it takes quite a bit to charge the lines if they were dry from dripping out.... might be the one bank has drippy injectors or stuck or some crazy ****.

did you check and make sure the block heater was heating up the coolant?

i have ha to use my heat gun in the intake and propane before to cold/dry start.
 
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