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Discussion Starter #1
I am going to do my first oil change on my Dmax I was thinking about going synthetic should I and if so what kind?


Thanks


Shannon Schrey
 

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It sounds like you are really low on miles? First oil change?


There are many opinions on what type of synthetic and i don't wanna get into that.


But i beleive most people here will tell you not to go to synthetic until 10 to 15K so the engine is allowed to break in. People going to synthetic too early may experience longer than normal oil consumtion from the breakin process. I am on the edge of 20k and my truck seems to be getting more power and running smoother than ever.... very soon i will make the switch. Good luck


ISNMUEdited by: ISurvivedNMU
 

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You might want to run some Dino oil through there for a couple of more changes to wash out all the casting material that may be in there. I switched around 10K to Mobil Delvac 1 reportedly to be "better" all around Syn. Oil (I am sure there will be a rise of alternative oil suggestions for that comment), but I believe it so there ya go!


You can change now to SYN if you want to, but you need a couple of quick changes (maybe every 3K) to wash it out good and using SYN for that is a waste of cash.


More important is changing the rear Diff fluid quickly. Some say as soon as 500 miles, but I went about 7K on miner before I was shown the errors of my way, and changed it.


You also want to change the Allison tranny spin on filter within the first 5K as well.


Do a search around here and you should have lots of explanations on why we all over maintain our trucks LOL



Enjoy the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sounds like I can start now according to Mobile.
 

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I'll second what "Chevyrus" indicates above. I did several oil changes within the first 3k miles. Better to be doing that with cheap dino instead of $5/qt Delvac1.
 

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I am going to run Delvac 1300 15W40 until 15-20K, then switch to Amsoil or Delvac synthetic.


Other great dino diesel motor oils are Pennzoil Long Life 15W40 and Chevron Delo 400 15W40 as well as everyones favorite, Shell Rotella T.
 

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At 1606 miles I put mobil delvac 1 in mine with no problems. In cold climates they recomend synthetic reguardless of miles to help with start up oil pressure.
 

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I think there is something to be said for a couple of short "wash-out" fills. But, it is a myth that the engine won't break in with synthetic. I've had Delvac1 in mine since 2,200 miles with plenty of power, negligible oil consumption, and excellent fuel mileage.

TC
 

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I did my first change at 1,000 Mi. with delo 400 15-40 that I had laying around the garage. Next one at 3,000 Mi. with Mobil Delvac and then again at 6,000-7,000 with Mobil synthetic.
 

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I am at 2k and will be going with Delvac 1 immediately. I never understood the dont use synthetics right away debate. Its not like theirs zero friction with a synthetic. Mercedes and others come with mobil 1 OEM.
 

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dslbrnr


Are you using regular Mobil 1 instead of Delvac 1? Are you aware it is not an approved oil for the Dmax?
 

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I read in Diesel Progress the big rigs run up 90,000 miles between oil changes..... wow
 

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I switched to Delvac 1 this weekend. No more "tick"
I am thinking this has got to be a good thing if it is lubricateion related. I am at 2k miles. Changed the rear axle. It only had 2 qts in it from the factory
It took 4.10 qts of Mobil 1. The front axle drained out like baby poo doo. 2 qts of Mobil 1. Changed the Allision Spin on Filter and greased most of the Front end. Their are two small fittings on top of a arm I can not get to. Is any one else able to grease theese Zerks or is their some spiffy trick ? I need to change the 4x4 and refill with TranSynd but I need to find a fluid pump to refill. Does any one know where I can order one ?
 

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Chevysrus said:
More important is changing the rear Diff fluid quickly. Some say as soon as 500 miles, but I went about 7K on miner before I was shown the errors of my way, and changed it. Why such a rush to change Diff fluid? Is this difficult to do? I'm sorry for the stupid question but what type of fluid is in the front and rear differential? What is the procedure for changing these?
 

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I see eric has posted 5k for the first diff fluid change. I just wanted to go synthetic as soon as possible. The rear has a drain plug on the bottom. Very easy change. I am glad I did not wait longer as I was ony half full from the factory. The front you have to drop your skid plate to get to. No biggie. Look at the top drivers side of the Diff case. At the top their is a plastic insert that is about 6" in diameter with a vacum hose in the center. If that piece is white you can use Synthetic fluid. If its Black you stay with the Traditional gear lube or change the cap. eric has them for like $12.00. The drain and fill is easy to find on the front diff as well. same procedure but only takes 2 qts. If you turn your wheels all the way to the stop it makes it easy to get the lube bottle in to refill the front diff. Eric also has the GM synthetic ( grape Juice ) 6 qts with the white cap for $130 includeing freight. I choose to use Mobil 1 synthetic from George at AV Lube. I have had great luck with Mobil 1 products.
 

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thanks BlueMaxxxx. Want to do everything I can to pamper the new baby
 

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BlueMaxxxx said:
Their are two small fittings on top of a arm I can not get to. Is any one else able to grease theese Zerks or is their some spiffy trick ?

BlueMaxxxx


If you turn the steering wheel it moves those control arms to points where you can get to those grease fittings. Took me a few minutes of cursing the engineers on this as well before I figured it out. I think it was about half a turn of the steering from neutral to expose the fittings to wear they can be reached.
 

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BlueMaxxxx said:
…Their are two small fittings on top of a arm I can not get to. Is any one else able to grease theese Zerks or is their some spiffy trick …
I use a swivel fitting on the end of my grease gun hose that can be oriented from 0 to 360 degrees. It looks similar to this one…




 

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Wow, Now thiers a Tool I could really use. where did you get that at and does it just snap over the end of a regular fitting ? I feel The Tim Taylor comeing out every time I see a new tool
 
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