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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Click HERE to order a Finger Stick via PayPal . This is the only method of payment accepted (credit card payments may be used via the Paypal website without creating a PayPal account). The E-mail address you enter on the PayPal site must be valid. Confirmation E-mails will be sent to you in reference to your order. If the E-mail is not valid, the payment for your order will be returned to your Paypal account method of payment and the order will not be filled.

Installation Directions for FINGER STICK

What is a Finger Stick? It is a simple circuit that modifies the MAF signal on LLY engines (not LB7 engines) to expected levels when the EGR is blocked or a free flowing exhaust system causes the ECM to set codes. This will prevent a Service Engine Soon light from illuminating and will prevent the ECM from displaying DTC codes related to an EGR modification or larger exhaust.

There are other threads on this forum that cover this in much greater detail.

What follows are the connection instructions for the Fingers stick:

Everyone must be reminded that the D.P. member who provided this stick is providing it "as a generic circuit" and that you install it at your own risk. The manufacturer can not and will not be responsible for any damages, real or perceived, to you, your truck, or your marital life in whole or in part. Same goes for these installation directions. Read all these directions before installing. Ask questions first, install second.

You will only be cutting one wire! All others connections are simple taps of the wires.

Each wire's function is based on it's location on a connector. Make sure you follow the wires back from the MAF and EGR connectors. You never know when GM will change colors.

The first picture is of the Stick as shipped with each wire labeled as it will be used in the installation.

The second picture is of the EGR connector. The lowest passenger side wire on the connector is the EGR position sensor wire. On the example truck it is blue with a white stripe. The BLUE wire on the Stick should be tapped into this wire. Do NOT cut the original EGR wire!

The third picture is of the MAF sensor near the air filter.

The wire closest to the driver's side is the MAF signal wire. On the example truck it is yellow. This is the ONLY wire that should be cut. Splice the YELLOW wire on the Stick to the MAF sensor side of the cut wire and the YELLOW/GREEN to the harness side.

The next wire in is a ground and is gray on the example truck. The GRAY wire from the Stick gets tapped into this wire, Do not cut this wire!

The middle wire is the power wire and on the example truck it is pink. The RED wire on the Stick gets tapped into this wire. Do not cut this wire!

Installation Notes:

The EGR MUST be plugged in for the stick to operate properly.

It is much easier if you disconnect the air intake filter tube from the filter before you start. This will give you more room to work.

Wait until after you install your Stick, then clear all EGR DTC codes that may have been set, if desired, or 50 ignition cycles will eventually clear them.

Once the yellow wire in the engine harness is cut, the YELLOW wire of the stick will go towards the MAF wire on the air cleaner, letting the output of the stick (YELLOW/GREEN) go into the harness that goes across the engine.

For wire connections use wire taps, sometimes called splices. There are available at the local auto parts store. The wires on the harness and stick are thin, 22 gauge wires so make sure you get taps that handle the small wire. Soldering is even better.

For a clean install: Pull the plastic wire looms back far enough to make all the wire connections and splices easier, and don't put any wires back inside the looms until all the connections are finished. Then, when you're completely done, tuck everything back inside and finish with a little electrical tape to make the ends sanitary. For even a cleaner install, after plugging the EGR back in, you can put a piece of 1" wire loom from the MAF sensor down a foot to where the wires “T” in.

Other Notes of Interest: For dealer / warranty work the stick may be left on the truck, but like all aftermarket things, out of sight out of mind. You may want to remove the Blocker Plate (remember, out of sight, out of mind). The ECM should stay happy with the Stick installed and the Blocker Plate removed. You may have to leave the stick on to keep the big exhausts from setting codes. To the manufacturers’ knowledge, it is invisible to the Tech II diagnostic computer. The EGR works the same with or without the stick. What is modified is the signal coming from the MAF sensor. So, disconnecting the Blue EGR wire stops the MAF signal modification.

If you are coding because of the exhaust, disabling the Stick will bring the codes back.

How to disable the Stick if needed: If you disconnect the EGR wire on the stick (the blue wire), the Stick just passes the MAF signal to the ECM without modification. If you are blocking codes, the codes will come back with the EGR wire disconnected.

Is there a way to tell if it’s working (without using a DTC scanner)?

Remember, if the EGR Blocker Plate is installed along with the Stick and you are not getting any DTC codes, it is working. Disconnecting the blue (EGR) wire as stated above will disable the Stick and cause DTC codes to be displayed again. If you installed the EGR Blocker Plate which caused the SES light to go on (CA & N/E Emission trucks mostly) – the SES light will be off if all is working fine. If you installed the Blocker Plate and never got a SES light (mostly Federal emission trucks) then you could also try this:

If you have a volt meter, you can look at the voltage coming out of the EGR position sensor relative to ground. That signal is in the blue wire you tapped coming from the EGR. If the voltage reading is greater than ~1.25 volts at idle, the EGR is being used and there are no EGR codes. If you watch the voltage while you rev the engine, it will fluctuate. Any EGR codes and the ECM will discontinue EGR positioning. A closed EGR valve reads about 1.25 volts. Full open is near 5 volts. Normal idle is about 3 volts.


** Pages 10 – 13 of the FINGER STICK thread contain most of this information as well as larger photos, if needed.

You are encouraged to ask questions on the Forum and post your results and ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Below are Pictures of an actual installation:

Pic #1 = Cutting the wires
Pic #2 = After the cut
Pic #3 = All the wires tapped (note where the Yellow and Yellow/Green wire are connected
Pic #4 = All buttoned up after the install
 

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I hate to criticize your install but you need to know that those type of crimp (scotch locks) will not last long under your hood. I strongly advice solder and heat shrink.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Max Power said:
I hate to criticize your install but you need to know that those type of crimp (scotch locks) will not last long under your hood. I strongly advice solder and heat shrink.
No offense - good point. Glad you brought it up for others to see. Info was just taken and condensed from the original thread as it had gotten so long and hard to follow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Fingers said:
Good job Rob.
Thanks for the help and edit. I keep a bunch of the DIY stuff from the forum in a ring binder for reference and that's why I started putting this together. Figured I might as well post it. If I don't write things down - I forget it!!
 

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skoryaro2 said:
No offense - good point. Glad you brought it up for others to see. Info was just taken and condensed from the original thread as it had gotten so long and hard to follow.
For the completely anal (I'm included in that group), is there male and female connectors available (even if only through GM), that could be used to make this a plug and play deal (except for the one cut wire)? Something bothers me about cutting, splicing, and/or tapping a new harness.......but then again that's just me.

From what I have read this product performs well, so I am not knocking it, just curious for other forms of installation (as I am not good with soldering either).
 

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Leadfoot said:
For the completely anal (I'm included in that group), is there male and female connectors available (even if only through GM), that could be used to make this a plug and play deal (except for the one cut wire)? Something bothers me about cutting, splicing, and/or tapping a new harness.......but then again that's just me.

From what I have read this product performs well, so I am not knocking it, just curious for other forms of installation (as I am not good with soldering either).
Three of the four are available. There are no plans to produce sticks with connectors at this time. The install isn't hard, but it is also not for the faint of heart.
 

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just remember a wire is a wire it can be replaced. i was a little worried about it at first but just take your time and do it right. print the directions if needed to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Even though I put these directions together (with help, of course), I too was leary when I did the install 2 days ago. Just something Psychological about cutting wires on your new truck. I checked & re-checked and checked again. After all was said and done it was no biggie.

On a side note: I used 3/4" loom and encased the connectors, stick and original OEm loom inside of it. Tapped it up and it looks nice and pretty.

Waiting on my Predator to arrive to check if I'm throwing any DTC's
 

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Max Power said:
I hate to criticize your install but you need to know that those type of crimp (scotch locks) will not last long under your hood. I strongly advice solder and heat shrink.
I decided to use solder, "liquid tape" and heat shrink to fix some wiring breaks under my hood. The liquid tape has decent temperature characteristics, and will keep moisture away from the wire if any were to get under the heat shrink. Plus it smells good.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
skoryaro2 said:
On a side note: I used 3/4" loom and encased the connectors, stick and original OEM loom inside of it. Tapped it up and it looks nice and pretty.

Waiting on my Predator to arrive to check if I'm throwing any DTC's
Pics of my install
 

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There will be a Finger Stick price increase effective April 1'st 2005. Sticks will go from $20/stick to $25/stick, shipping via USPost included.
 

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Thanks Fingers, Paypal is on the way. Just in time too. 5 bucks saved :) . Let's see that makes only $2855 on mods and assorted goodies. You are one of the
very few bargains I've run across.
 

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Paypal sent, looking for EGR plate.........searching. Thanks,

Tommy
 

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You've got PayPal.
Thanks.

Gar
 

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Sure wish I could get just a simple plug pass through version. It keeps it all MUCH neater and easier to remove if I want to take to dealer. Also, would be great to get the blocker plate and finger kit (with plugs) all from one place. :eek::

Thanks for offering what you are, though!!! Off to find a blocker plate order place.
-JM
 
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