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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,
Does anyone have information about kidney loop system for filtering WVO? I have tried searching the web, but have had terrible luck. Any help would be great.

Thanks, David
 

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never heard of it.
 

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Google is your friend 204,000 replies

http://search1.incredimail.com/?q=kidney+loop+system&channel=5412303693&lang=english

verry pricy that system 1,500$-3,000$ and the replacement of filter element is verry expensive too .

time is your friend when you do filtration let the wvo settle for 8-10 weeks the n all the bad stuff go down and you use the top oil and save on filter or use a centrifugal machine that do the exact same job for much cheaper $

http://www.simplecentrifuge.com/:D

or buid your own for 25$like i do
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Google is your friend 204,000 replies

http://search1.incredimail.com/?q=kidney+loop+system&channel=5412303693&lang=english

verry pricy that system 1,500$-3,000$ and the replacement of filter element is verry expensive too .

time is your friend when you do filtration let the wvo settle for 8-10 weeks the n all the bad stuff go down and you use the top oil and save on filter or use a centrifugal machine that do the exact same job for much cheaper $

http://www.simplecentrifuge.com/:D

or buid your own for 25$like i do
Tigman,
I was trying to find a site that explained the process of using the kidney loop system. I had no idea that they cost $1500-$3000. How does your centrifuge work for you?
 

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Well, how do you build a centrifuge for $25?
 

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I started out using a centrifuge then realized that due to the heat they really don't remove all the fats and PHO's. I found out about Upflow settling so now I first put my oil in an upflow settling tank where it usually sits for a couple weeks. From there I take it out and into my centrifuge. The oil coming out of the upflow tank looks amazingly clean though, it may not need anything other than that but I just run it through my centrifuge to make sure all the water is out.
Rusty
 

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I use a centrifuge from diesel products.I settle my oil in a 350 gallon cone bottom tank for 2 weeks to let the sludge and free water drop out.then use a 55 gallon drum with a 220volt 4000 watts hot water heater element in the side of it 6 inches from the bottom on the drum.I used a 55 gallon drum with bung holes,turn it upside down and cut off the bottom which is now the top,use the large bung hole for your outlet for your high volume pump for your centrifuge,(i use a honda power steering pump)use the small bung hole for another pump to pump out your clean oil.I heat my oil to 225 degrees till no more steam rises,this gets all the suspended water out of the oil.Then i let the oil cool down to 140 degrees then run the centrifuge.I run 3 passes thru the centrifuge.I run the centrifuge at 80-90 psi.The centrifuge can handle 65 gallons an hour.I usally run 35 gallons thru it at a time,it takes too long to heat up 50 gallons of oil,plus i dont like to get burned by hot oil splashing out of the drum.heres the info on where to get the centrifuge.The centrifuge hardly removes any water so dont count on it for that,HEAT YOUR OIL!This model is alot cheaper than the dieselcraft or the simple centrifuge.

Industrial Diesel Products Inc.
Toronto, ON. Canada.
Tel: 905-362-0423 Toll Free 1-800-668-4835
Fax: 905-362-5015 Toll Free 1-800-668-7450
http://www.dieselproducts.com

Pricing:
The model FF25LE is $185.00 usd
Funds: US Dlrs
Delivery: TBA
Shipping: $10.00 usd

Sometime today ill take some pics of my system.
 

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Hi , ok i have time to explaine the centrifugal principe and how i do mine .

beware if not do rigth the force apply to the wall can make the machine explode and injuries can occure .

sorry but french speeking:eek::

http://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=_w-iu0IUoQ4

disk drum


main mecanism



oil collector




sumpump motor



i use that type of motor because i want to be able to change my rpm accordingly to my result but yuo can connect directly the drum to the motor .

ballancing the drum



next post
 

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continuation.

so i found a disk drum from a Suzuki 4 weels i i start with that part .

i remouve de braking band from the interrior $$ and i by new set or bearings $$ i anstall a retaining ring at the exterrior side or my drum.



i found a stainless steel chimney ang i weld ti to a steel plate



a add a gutter in the top of the chemney to collect the clean oil




assemble the spindle the bearing with the v-bely pulley



actually i type everything with one finger because of a :mad::mad::mad::mad: v-belt pulley that grab 1 finger from my rigth hand last week at work .

ok i continu .

i have to add a splash guard on the top of the chimney



and from there the test start



experimentation and checking the result is critical to find the right way to procede the right way every time . the most critical factor is the thickness (temperature)of the oil but now i'm working on a way to heaty my drum constantly but no detail on that part for now :p:.

and one more mod, i add a fiberglass closed top cover because of the splash .

OK my imagination can't be paid for and the hours of research to find the pressur i need to filter correctly the oil is priceless but my expenses is realy 25 $ i forget to mention 1 new v-belt and new v-belt puley they are in the 25$ to

now the theory

you need at least 2,000 G of pressure to the sidwall of your drum to filter your oil to 0.5 micron and up to 5,000 G for 0.25 micron filtration i know it's too mush but it can be achive easyly .

Now to get 2,000 g you need a 8" in diameter and you need to make it spin 1650 rpm and your in buisness the other factor you have to consider is your oil flow with the p^revious spec you can't process over 15gallons/hrs .if you need mor flow you need to make it turn faster up to 3400 rpm is ok with my setup but that rpm can't be reach with a low quality drum/assemblage the drum need at least 1/4 steel thickness and ballance is critical.

ok i'm a professional welder but everithing else i do it carefully and no probleme occure during the building of my machine.

What is 2,000G the the pressure apply to the wall of the drum but what is exactely 2,000G it's exactely the sum or 2000X the weight of what you put inside the centrifugal machine so if you put 1 pound inside the drum 1 X 2,000 = 2,000 pound is apply to your oil . Yes the water goes away and all the small particules .

where i found the magical number :thrue an engineere that can play with number and he have that kind of knoledge


Now questions:D

Ed
 

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That's a nice machine :) Sorry about your finger!

How does it work? Is the WVO running up on the sides of the drum and you catch the overflow, while the particles remain in the drum?
 

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That's a nice machine :) Sorry about your finger!

How does it work? Is the WVO running up on the sides of the drum and you catch the overflow, while the particles remain in the drum?

Olee , exactly :clap:you understand perfectly the principle only the good oil overflow .the water separate and stay in the drum even emulition brakedown ,it take little more time but it separate:cool:

and if you look closely at the bottom i drill 2 holes (1/2") for the automatic purge it's verry easy to rince the left over(****) that way , sorry for my poor choise of word but thats exactly what it looc like when i scrape it from the sidewall .


everitime i stop the drum the oil that come from the bottom hole goes in a sepatate container because it contain bad oil and sediments . i lost about 2 quarts each time i filter 50Gallons at a time . i let my oil settle for a week so the bigger particul drop at the bottum and i dont have to stop in between to clean the drum . thats because my oil contain lost of everithing in it . about 2-3 gallons for every 50 gallons drum .
 

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Hm, I'm surprised that it works that way --- instead of the particles running over the top with the oil stream ...
 

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the particules are heavier than the oil thats why they ares push to the side and only the light stufff come out of the top. and water is the same it get push to the side at h²o level :D

Ed
 

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Do you get any water out with the CF after you use cold upflow?
Sorry for the delay. I removed 20 gallons from my upflow settling tank and into my centrifuge last week. I ran it in the centrifuge about 5 hours (a long time for 20 gallons) I checked the centrifuge and there was very little crud in it, not enough that it would have caused any problems at all in the car. I will still continue to run it through the centrifuge just because I have it, but I would say the upflow works well enough to be used as a stand alone cleaner assuming you give it time to settle.
Rusty
 
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