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Discussion Starter #1
I need to get a fifth wheel hitch i have a 2007.5 2500 cc short box LLM on the way I have never had a fifth wheel hitch and need some info on what kind of hitch i should buy. I assume that i will need a slider with short box but is it nessasary to get a fully automatic one or can i make do with a manual slider? I really dont want to drop $2k for a hitch. But if it is going to save me from damaging my truck i will. Just wanted some feed back from some people that have experience with different kinds of hitches. Any advice would be appreciated.
 

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when they put mine in about a month ago, the rv dealer suggested a Reese dual pivot slider. It si rated for 16k and said that unless you are going to unpinning an pavement all the time it would be the best one. I've already had to use the slider on it an dit is simple to operate. He also mentioned that they put the rails in cross wise in the box because in the next year or so any that running lengthwise will have to be changed due to dot regs. I'm not sure if that goes for the US as well. The reese dual pivot was about 1200 bucks. Jope this he;ps.
 

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I just installed the Pullrite SuperGlide 16K auto slide hitch in my new short bed LMM. The installation was a snap, check my garage for pics of the hitch. I bought the hitch used from a local guy who advertised it on Craigslist.com and he even delivered the hitch to my house for $800. The under the bed rails came with the hitch but they were from a Dodge truck. I sent them back to Pullrite and they sent me brand new Chevy brackets at N/C. Pullrite couldnt be easier to deal with . They also have a custom made pin box adapter for the 5er which goes over the pin and mounts with set screws on my Lippert 1621 pin box. No more drilling or welding of the pin box is needed. The true advantage of the SuperGlide is that you can never froget to slide the hitch when backing. On the manual hitches, you have to get out of the truck and slide the hitch before completing your tight turn. I have a friend that has a 37 ft Montana with a short bed and no slider. His 5er has beveled corners on the RV so they never come in contact with the rear window of the truck. With his previously owned 5er, he actually blew out his rear window out when backing up.
 

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I had a Reese manual slider (appears to be the same as Waggie) installed a year ago and have no complaints. I've only really needed to slide it maybe once, but I've gotten in the habit of sliding it whenever I'm backing up. For me, I don't see the need to spend the extra money on an automatic sliding hitch.
 

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I run the BW hitch with the companion 5th wheel attachment. No slider,no problems. Pull a 30' Artic Fox, hitch is solid as a rock.:D
 

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I highly recommend the Superglide automatic hitch. I have over 15,000 miles towing my 5th wheel with this hitch and love it. The cost of the hitch is far cheaper than repairing the front of your coach and the back of your truck. Just my two cents worth....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I found a used pullrite super glide 16k with mounting hardware from a 2003 GMC 2500HD will that hardware work on my new body style 2007.5 LMM?
 

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I have a Reese 16k slider and bought it new for around 900 bucks. I have an extended pin box on my fifth wheel and have not had to use the slide feature.
 

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Waggie;1738785; said:
when they put mine in about a month ago, the rv dealer suggested a Reese dual pivot slider. It si rated for 16k and said that unless you are going to unpinning an pavement all the time it would be the best one. I've already had to use the slider on it an dit is simple to operate. He also mentioned that they put the rails in cross wise in the box because in the next year or so any that running lengthwise will have to be changed due to dot regs. I'm not sure if that goes for the US as well. The reese dual pivot was about 1200 bucks. Jope this he;ps.
Never have seen rails mounted longways. Anyway, just about every truck I have seen with smashed bed rails had a reese hitch, I just do not like the the way they lock.

dmaxfan;1738993; said:
My rv salesman recommended uhaul. I got mine put in there because if something ever happens, uhauls are everywhere. I dropped right at 1100 on mine installed with trailer brake. Mine is a valley http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/garage.php?do=big&p=2064
After seeing how there mechanics maintain there equipment, I'll pass on having them touch my truck.

Eng34FF;1739050; said:
I had a Reese manual slider (appears to be the same as Waggie) installed a year ago and have no complaints. I've only really needed to slide it maybe once, but I've gotten in the habit of sliding it whenever I'm backing up. For me, I don't see the need to spend the extra money on an automatic sliding hitch.
First time you forget, you will.

duramaxguy04;1739984; said:
I highly recommend the Superglide automatic hitch. I have over 15,000 miles towing my 5th wheel with this hitch and love it. The cost of the hitch is far cheaper than repairing the front of your coach and the back of your truck. Just my two cents worth....
BEST WAY TO GO!!!

I run a Husky (same as valley) 24k. Paid $900 otd installed.
 

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Reese Dual Pivot Slider 16k
 

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LMM Joe: I had extensive discussions with Cust Serv at Pullrite. They are extremely helpful and should be able to answer any of your questions. My LMM 07.5 accepted the 06 Chevy brackets without any problems. I think that they are the same as 03 body style but check with Pullrite to be sure. The only difference that I know about is with the new frame on the 1500 series trucks. The 2500 frames in the 07.5 are identical to the 06 frames. The only difference is that you have to remove and remount a brake controller module on the drivers side of the frame on the 2500 series LMM. I also applied Slip Plate dry lubricant to my SuperGlide, seems to be a better lubricant for the slider than grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
racechaser1;1741144; said:
LMM Joe: I had extensive discussions with Cust Serv at Pullrite. They are extremely helpful and should be able to answer any of your questions. My LMM 07.5 accepted the 06 Chevy brackets without any problems. I think that they are the same as 03 body style but check with Pullrite to be sure. The only difference that I know about is with the new frame on the 1500 series trucks. The 2500 frames in the 07.5 are identical to the 06 frames. The only difference is that you have to remove and remount a brake controller module on the drivers side of the frame on the 2500 series LMM. I also applied Slip Plate dry lubricant to my SuperGlide, seems to be a better lubricant for the slider than grease.

I ordered my truck with the factory installed brake module. Will i have to modify that also? I did end up buying the Super glide 16k on ebay for $850 with the rail system for a 03 GMC 2500. After doing some research I think that was a good price especially if the rails from the 03 will work. Hopefully i dont have to mess around with moving the brake controller module. And im hopeing i can do the install myself
 

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The superglide at $850 is an excellent deal! Be careful that the superglide rails are in good shape and that no galling is present on the rail tubes. If the hitch came with a pin box adaptor, make sure that it can be mounted to your 5er or you can order the pin box custom plate from Pullrite, just give them your pin box manufacturer and model number. I have attached pictures of galling on the rail tubes that were sent to me from Pullrite. The first two pics show the damage to the tubes, the third is a picture of the same rails but greased and the damage is covered by the cam head. They say that grease on the rails can hide a lot of sins so use WD 40 to clean off the grease and inspect the tops and sides of the tubes. Also be very careful to check under the cam arm for galling as this center (home) position is where you will do all of your towing from.
Good Luck!
 

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As far as the trailer brake controller module, you will have to remove it from the inside of the driver's side frame rail to install your Pullrite brackets. After installation, you can remount it. The installation can be a do it yourself project if you are handy. Get the best hole saws and drill bits that you can find and go at it. If you check out my garage pics, you can see the 4 mounting holes for the hitch that are cut into the bed. Was it nerve wracking to drill into a new truck? You bet!. I made a template from the Pullrite instructions that helped greatly with alignment and then drilled 1/8 inch holes in the bed first to get the precise alignment before I took out the big hole saw.
 

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Frozen Tundra;1740410; said:
I have a Reese 16k slider and bought it new for around 900 bucks. I have an extended pin box on my fifth wheel and have not had to use the slide feature.
This has been my experience exactly. With the pin extension I've NEVER had to use the sliding feature. IMHO the autosliders are probably real nice but not really necessary. There are much better things to spend your money on - like gauges. If you tow - you need guages.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
racechaser1;1741745; said:
The superglide at $850 is an excellent deal! Be careful that the superglide rails are in good shape and that no galling is present on the rail tubes. If the hitch came with a pin box adaptor, make sure that it can be mounted to your 5er or you can order the pin box custom plate from Pullrite, just give them your pin box manufacturer and model number. I have attached pictures of galling on the rail tubes that were sent to me from Pullrite. The first two pics show the damage to the tubes, the third is a picture of the same rails but greased and the damage is covered by the cam head. They say that grease on the rails can hide a lot of sins so use WD 40 to clean off the grease and inspect the tops and sides of the tubes. Also be very careful to check under the cam arm for galling as this center (home) position is where you will do all of your towing from.
Good Luck!

The rail tubes looked good from the pics i seen on ebay but i will have to do like you said and clean them off and take a good look. How do they get like that just from not keeping them greased up? Will i have to replace them if they are bad or can you get by with just adding a bunch of grease. I appreciate all your help
 

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Yes, the damage occurs when the rails are not properly lubricated. You can replace the tubes or sand out minor scratches but the real problem is from the cam. If the cam is damaged and gouged, it will only start the damage process on your new tubes all over again. You could replace the cam but now we are getting expensive. The best advice is to thoroughly clean and look at the tubes and then lubricate regularly. I cleaned my tubes and then applied "slip plate" which is a better lubricant and wont attract dirt to the rails. If you go this way, be sure to get 4 new lock washers to replace the old ones after you remove your tubes.
 

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16K dual pivot Reese w/slider. Slider never used - but there if I need it. Could not justify the cost of the automatic and the extra weight. I do have a good co-pilot who watches my turns like a hawk! Paid less than $400 (had the rails from an earlier Reese) and installed myself.
 

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2nd truck with the Reese Dual Pivot Slider 16k. Never had a problem. Just like big rigs you should do a pull test. The advantage over an automatic slider is I can slide when I want to, it moves the pivot point making it more like a TT than a 5er. The trailer reacts faster. With the auto-slide the reaction time changes as it slides, it might make it a tuff to learn the reaction time, I have never driven one with an auto-slide so I may be all wrong on that.
 
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