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The fuel travels through the head on these applications and returns back to the fuel tank very hot. Hot diesel fumes are quite explosive so I imagine this why the cooler is used.

Cooler for any other application is not really needed.
 

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Bump for a valuable thread
 

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Discussion Starter #44
After all this time I'll post what I would have changed. #1 would be a better pre filter. I chose an Aeromotive 100 micron stainless mesh inline filter. I'd also use all anodized fittings to prevent rust! The fittings were not serviceable when I went back this year to remove them for service.

Everything is still flawless otherwise and I'm now a dealer for all these great parts that have proven themselves.
 

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I know there hasn't been any activity in this thread so maybe I'll bring it back since it's such a good setup. I'm getting ready to install the Kodiak/Topkick filter on the Burb and I have a question for you quadstar87. How do you figure out which wire goes where on the fuel heater and the water in fuel sensor? I know there is only one of two ways on each one, does it matter or not? Thanks for a great idea!:thumb:
 

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Can anyone tell me where the 94 and up trucks get the temp reading to activate the fuel heater in the filter? I doubt mine works since I have converted to mechanical DB2 IP. I may have to put a switch on the dash with a idiot light to remind me to turn it off.
 

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Can anyone tell me where the 94 and up trucks get the temp reading to activate the fuel heater in the filter? I doubt mine works since I have converted to mechanical DB2 IP. I may have to put a switch on the dash with a idiot light to remind me to turn it off.
Signal comes from the ECM, reading the CTS on the coolant crossover.
 

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Yea I new it had to go through the ECM, the only thing that sensor is doing on my truck is powering up the cold advance solenoid on the DB2 and I'm probably going to lose that when I install a Hypermax aneroid on the IP. I wonder if I could use the signal wire for the cold advance solenoid for the fuel heater? I don't think so because one wire on the Dmax fuel heater is grounded on the housing so it would just short the circuit I would think.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Can anyone tell me where the 94 and up trucks get the temp reading to activate the fuel heater in the filter? I doubt mine works since I have converted to mechanical DB2 IP. I may have to put a switch on the dash with a idiot light to remind me to turn it off.
Standard 12v ign power and ground. They get constant voltage and are internally regulated thermostatically to turn on and off.
 

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So on the Kodiak filter assembly the H2O in fuel just needs the two reference wires from the OEM sensor? And the heater can have 12 volts from the thermostat crossover temp sensor? Or do I give it 12 volt ignition controlled power and it will turn itself on and off? Any idea what the temp range is? Sorry for the 20 questions, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
So on the Kodiak filter assembly the H2O in fuel just needs the two reference wires from the OEM sensor? And the heater can have 12 volts from the thermostat crossover temp sensor? Or do I give it 12 volt ignition controlled power and it will turn itself on and off? Any idea what the temp range is? Sorry for the 20 questions, thanks.
I've moved away from that setup now for setups that are cheaper and more readily available yet provide the same filtration quality. For the wiring, however, you literally just splice both into the factory wiring and go rolling down the road. No conversions or anything needed.
 

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I've figured out the water in fuel sensor, it works by just using the two signal wires and eliminating the constant 12 volt wire for the original sensor. As far as the heater goes I don't have a signal going to my ECU telling it the temp so I think the only way I can control the heater would be a seperate switch.
 
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I've moved away from that setup now for setups that are cheaper and more readily available yet provide the same filtration quality. For the wiring, however, you literally just splice both into the factory wiring and go rolling down the road. No conversions or anything needed.
Could you post or message the "new" list of parts you use to make this setup. I'd like to look into doing this for my truck.

Thanks.
 

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So the pump pushing 9psi i heard above 7 could damage the injection.pump ?
On the DB2 mechanical pumps, you can damage the pumps with high pressure.
The DB2 and DS4 IP only need 5psi constant to be happy
 

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So the pump pushing 9psi i heard above 7 could damage the injection.pump ?
I’ve been pushing nearly 20psi into my DS4 for years with no problems. Too much pressure into the DB pumps messes up the timing. They can be modified to work with high pressure, though.
 

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i wish this thread was around when i bought my truck. lol. i overhauled the entire system, after reading online about how the original fuel was crap. i was even more so confused because the prior owners made a mess of a bunch of things. they had a fuel filter from a lawn mower. that would basically fill up the run out and the truck would die after about 15 mins of run time. being a clueless HVAC tech and having no automotive diesel exp. i just found this site. took me about a month of reading and figuring out what i needed to do. so i cut to the chase and order a new fuel tank lines, made a 20"x 6" fuel filter manager and mounted it to the frame rail. water separator to LP to another filter IP feed with 3/8 hose i got i forget what exact brand i used for the hose. i ran a new 5/15th line for the return. another thing that gets looked over alot is how shitty the rubber tubing is that goes from injector to injector. ive found tygone the yellow or clear tubing this use on lawn EQ is the best ive tried so far. ive been using it by the turbo for a few months now. it has not become brittle like the german tubing does. so if u need a cheap answer for that boom.
thanks for taking the time to post this. now i just need to by the pump and im basically good to go.
 

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well i just got a fass LP and the fittings on ebay. it cost me 206 with tax for the pump and 28 for the fitting. the fitting i bought on this site. RaceFlux AN Male Flare to Metric Male Adapter Fitting

so ill just have to weld the new bracket to my FMM on the frame rail and i should be good to go. i do need to put a fuel pressure gauge somewhere. do i need to find the spring it drop output?
 

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so ive been looking for the spring to drop the psi output to 13, they say the pump should do 16-18 but im think that the lift up a few feet and the restriction of the topkick fuel filter should help lower a bit off the bat. or so i hope. lol guess my next thing is to figure out how to attach a fuel pressure gauge.
 

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I like having a fuel pressure gauge, but you don’t need one. I put a T at the outlet of the FFM to monitor pressure.
Up to you if you want to drop the FASS pressure. I wouldn’t go to the effort, but it won’t hurt to drop it a little either.
 
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