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First off, thanks to PaleyJim for the original idea! I adapted my setup to be the 'perfect' solution for me at the lowest cost possible and wanted to share it with the forum.

Goal: Install a complete new fuel system that will has enough flow to maintain consistent pressure during the variable demands of a maxxed out DS4 injection pump while maintaining all factory features (listed below) and eliminating the annoying issues with 20+ year old parts:
  • OPS activated lift pump relay
  • Fuel Heater to enhance water separation
  • Water drain on primary filter
  • Water In Fuel (WIF) light on dash
  • Cheap pre lift pump "strainer" for coarse filtration and pump protection. Most spin-on filters are too restrictive and un-necessary.
  • A simple flow-on-fail backup in case of pump failure
  • Replacement parts readily available
Result: 9 PSI of dead consistent fuel pressure with readily available parts and filters that you can get anywhere. Total cost < $300 and everything is new between the fuel tank sending unit and injection pump.

Parts List:
Fuel sending unit area: $11.70
  • Russel 640830 – 3/8 o-ring flare/-6AN male tank line adapter (qty 1 @ $9.95)
  • -6 female to 3/8 Pushlok Barb (qty 1 @ $1.75)
  • New O-Ring installed from a master kit
  • Fuel sock delete in-tank
Pre LP filter area: $7.99
  • NAPA 3270/Wix 33270 with 3/8 ends - ~141 Micron, very free flowing(qty 1 @ $7.99)
  • 3/8 hose clamps (qty 2, came with pump)
Pump area: $144.00
  • FASS DRP-02 High Performance Diesel Fuel Pump. ~65GPH @ 9PSI (qty 1 @ $132.50)
  • M12x1.5 ORB /-6AN Male fittings (qty 2 @ $4.00)
  • -6 female / 3/8 Pusklok Barb (qty 2 @ $1.75)
  • 1/8 steel plate and pre-drilled angle welded to make bracket. Bolts came with pump
  • Napa Gasket material roll cut to insulate aluminum pump to steel mounting plate
Primary Filter area: $76.74
  • AcDelco 12642624 Duramax Kodiak style filter head with Primer, WIF sensor, and heater. ½” banjo inlet/outlet. Includes ACDelco TP3018 filter which is 98% at 4 Micron with water separation, built in heater, built in primer, and WIF sensor. (qty 1 @ $61.12)
  • M14 ORB / -6 JIC Male 90* adapters (to replace banjos and adapt to 3/8) (qty 2 @ $5.56)
  • M10x1.5 ORB to 1/8 NPT Female 90* fitting for fuel pressure sender to adapt to the DMAX air bleed screw on the filter head. (qty 1 @ $4.50)
  • Electric fuel pressure gauge was already installed prior to this setup
Injection Pump area: $3.57
  • -4 SAE ORB Male to -6 Male JIC – Bored out with carbide bit (This is a DIY FTB fitting) (qty 1 @ $1.82)
  • -6 female / 3/8 Pusklok Barb (qty 1 @ $1.75)
Misc areas: $49.40
  • Misc soldering and wiring supplies would vary per setup
  • -6 Male/-6 Male union for free-flow emergency pump bypass (qty 1 @ $2)
  • 3/8 black Pushlok hose (qty 20 @ $1.77)
  • ½” Loom to protect hose from chafing & wear (qty 2 @ $5.00)
  • Flameproof heat shield for fuel line coming up the inner fender near exhaust manifold on driver side – scored at junk yard off a trailblazer heater hose (qty 1 @ $0)
Pictures! :
Parts Line-Up *note, didn't use the 120* fitting at IP.

Boring out the IP inlet fitting:

Pump ORB fittings installed to replace 90* banjos:

Pump bracket welded up to maintain horizontal orientation and downward weep hole:

Pump and pre filter installed. This was a major cost saving area over a spin on type filter:

Dmax Kodiak/Topkick style filter in stock form:

Filter Setup and Wired:

Setting up WIF sensor pigtail by removing 12v reference wire:

Fuel heater and WIF Wired into factory harness:

Pressure gauge adapter and sender installed. The filter head gets its ground through the fuel heater setup for an accurate pressure reading from the electric sensor.

Pump bypass fitting to carry in case of pump failure. Idea is to use the hand-primer on the filter after bypassing the pump during a roadside failure, and limp back home.

Steady Pressure! Finally!! :



Important Considerations:
  • Newer FASS DDRP pumps may be factory set ~18psi. You can change the pump bypass spring easily, but I did not have to with my N.O.S. DRP-02. My pump was MFG Feb of 2015.
  • Regular truck Duramax filter heads do NOT have threaded inlets and are harder to adapt.
  • I could have saved a few bucks on the Russell tank adapter fitting by getting it sourced at the hydraulic shop, but I ordered it previously.
  • This pre-LP filter will need changed every 6-8k miles but it's cheap and easy insurance.
  • Higher grades of pushlok hose are available from Parker. The stuff that comes with FASS pumps is blue and costs more. I'm not sure what the differences are but might be important for various ALT fuels.
  • The FASS troubleshooting document(s) specifically state to mount the pump horizontally so the weep hole is facing down. This allows any moisture to exit the pump head, and that is how they mount on the Cummins trucks they were designed for.
  • My prices are NOT list prices. I wouldn't have done this if I didn't find the stuff cheap
 

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Great post
 

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Great work, great results.

Can you post a picture the end of the circuit at the IP? Does your line come from above or below the intake?
 

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On the test stand a maxed DS4 IP would perform just a tad better with 14 psi. I ran the IP up to 20 psi but could not find any improvement.
9 psi should be more than adequate for most applications.
Nice looking install!
 

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VERY CLEAN INSTALL!


What is factory fuel PSI anyway?


I like how you kept everything under the frame and hood. Out of sight, I have seen a few installs where filter sticks out the bottom of the frame. YUCK!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Great post
Thank you! Hope it helps

Great work, great results.

Can you post a picture the end of the circuit at the IP? Does your line come from above or below the intake?
Thanks, Tom. It snakes through a gap under the brake fluid reservoir after coming out of the filter and makes a gradual bend down to the IP from the top. I have a 90* and 120* fitting for the IP but this seemed fine for now at least and got rid of any sharp bends.

Ideally, you could run it back down the inner fender and up the trans tunnel so it would never have a chance of breaking and leaking onto an exhaust manifold.

On the test stand a maxed DS4 IP would perform just a tad better with 14 psi. I ran the IP up to 20 psi but could not find any improvement.
9 psi should be more than adequate for most applications.
Nice looking install!
Thanks! I'll keep that in mind as I get more miles on it and collect some data. It's very easy to swap out the pump bypass spring for the newer (higher pressure) which PaleyJim is running successfully.

I planned this setup for a long time to make sure it would not be overkill, yet should last a long time and not hurt any wallets. Being able to change the bypass springs was one feature I liked because there's a big price increase to pumps that have a built in adjustable regulator and they are usually overkill in the GPH ratings.

VERY CLEAN INSTALL!


What is factory fuel PSI anyway?


I like how you kept everything under the frame and hood. Out of sight, I have seen a few installs where filter sticks out the bottom of the frame. YUCK!
Thanks! Factory pressure was 4-5 PSI with a '94-'99 lift pump. Up to 9 PSI at idle with the '93 or '00-'01, but they all degraded over time and would always drop to 0 pressure under higher fuel demands. I spent $50 on the last stock style pump I had and should have just saved it for this project because none of them have the GPH rating to maintain pressure with anything more than a stock setup (if that)

A 2WD sits pretty low so keeping it all neat was definitely a consideration along with not dropping wasted money on an expensive high micron spin-on setup that's not easy to find locally.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Bleed-Down

One thing I noticed this morning was that this pump bleeds off pressure overnight. I'll see if that causes any problems and do some cold starts this week as the temps drop again.

It shouldn't be getting any air when it does that but I can imagine a cold start would like the pump to prime or maintain pressure with good 3/8" check valve if they are cheap.
 

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Here's the view of the feed line going to the IP. It has a little slack in it and I have poly engine mounts so it doesn't move much.

 

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Just finished putting some more miles on this setup and damn :bounce:. I'm impressed with the improvement. I knew it was starved before with the stock style lift pump even though that was a slight upgrade over a stock 94 pump. Should have done this last year along with the other upgrades if I knew I could do it all so cheap and easy.

Lowest pressure I logged was 8.5 PSI under a long WOT 3rd gear pull with the TCC locked. Will look into what pressure springs FASS has available and might try one out when the weather comes back around.

Really nice job!

Added to DIYs :thumb:
Thanks, Fred! Anybody who does this won't regret it. I wish I never read a thread about a stock style lift pump because they all suck once you start tuning. This would have probably made my IP last longer when I was running around stock too.

Thanks to everyone else who supported my 'planning' posts along the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Figured i'd post up some data on how hard i'm running this thing too.

Here's max throttle at max fuel command on the DS4 at 3000 RPM from a data log I did about an hour ago. Fuel pressure only drops .5 PSI under these conditions :clap:. Time to raise the limiter and shift points :whistle: .... and buy a block o-ring grove cutter....

WOT.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Feel like making another one? :HiHi:
Going to be too busy burning diesel!!! Get on the lookout for good deals and start collecting parts like I did. The hardest part of the install is tearing out all the original junk and spilling diesel on yourself.
 

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No worries. I know I can do it...but like I've always said, hard work pays of eventually but laziness pays off immediately:hehe:
It all comes down to cost. You could order everything new tonight and pick up lines/fittings tomorrow but it's close to $500 that way.
 

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Great to see the positive results in the data supporting the mod. I have all the stuff need to get to doing the install. Nice, job well done.
 

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Where did you find the pump for $132.50?

Is it noisey?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Where did you find the pump for $132.50?

Is it noisey?
Good to hear from you! Hope all has been well.

It was one of those lucky BNIB deals you get on eBay every now and then. Fuel filter assembly was an Amazon warehouse deal, open box as well. I've seen some reports that this pump isn't good for Alt fuels but that doesn't bother me with the DS4.

It's a quiet pump. Can't hear or feel it at all over the engine and it's not like I insulated the mounting bracket or anything.
 

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Good to hear from you! Hope all has been well.

It was one of those lucky BNIB deals you get on eBay every now and then. Fuel filter assembly was an Amazon warehouse deal, open box as well. I've seen some reports that this pump isn't good for Alt fuels but that doesn't bother me with the DS4.

It's a quiet pump. Can't hear or feel it at all over the engine and it's not like I insulated the mounting bracket or anything.
Yeah, been busy with TDI VW's and working, picked up a movie set and a good used car lot, with them, customers and my VW's, just have no time anymore. I would love to get the van done this year but I don't think its going to happen, :(, maybe over winter.

I have the Aeromotive pump and what a POS, its so loud its sad and I paid close to $400 for it, :banghead:

I use the GM head/filter unit, they are great and the filter selection sure helps, :thumb:

Edit, they list the pump at 18psi, why is yours at 9 psi?
 

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I paid the full $249.99 plus tax and indentured servitude and mine is also quiet. Makes a steady electronic "eeeeeeeee" sound instead of like a little wind up drumming monkey sound a stock LP makes.
 
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