All you guys argueing about this....sheesh!!! BUT that's why its a forum, right?
Isn't it true that the 1/2 tons come from the factory with the "green keys"? If so, and if the designs of the 1/2 and 3/4 ton truck frames / suspensions are the same, then wouldn't the 1/2 ton trucks be having problems by now? Wouldn't we be hearing about broken parts, rough rides, etc?
My take is the green keys give you a higher starting point, with less strain on the bars, therefore if you add the same "X" number of turns to the screws, you will have a similar higher finish point, with less stain on the bars, leaving the ride quality the same, just higher.
Wouldn't raising "X+" turns on the screws using the stock keys put more initial "at rest" strain on the bars, and wouldn't that lessen the amount of "twist" that they have, resulting in a harsher ride?
I dunno...I'm not an engineer, I just drive truck.
Seems to me that it doesn't matter what YOU do, just that YOU are happy with the results.
As for Mike Tomac....I'd LOVE to have his problems!!!!
Damn...600+ horse (or was it over 700 now?) and streetable....HOOOYAAAA!!!!! GO MIKE!
One thing i will say.... even though i've gone to the Dark Side.... GM builds a good susp system. I have heard of other brands breaking torsion bars and even have a good friend that broke two on his stock F150. I have never heard of a broken torsion bar on a GM truck. Not that it's never happened.
I've ownd like four GM 4x4's with IFS, light duty and heavy duty. I installed a Superlift on one way back. I can tell you from experience that it's not a complicated system and its super easy to maintain... easier than solid front axles.
It does have some issues but so do the other designs. i think the biggest problem with IFS is it doesn't have the GAVW as the solid units. That's why my Dodge Quad Cab with a heavy diesel comes with a snow plow prep but you can't get it with GM IFS. That doesn't effect 99% of us though.
I don't think the green keys will hurt anything more than shorten the lif of a few components. They may cause excessive CV joint wear or some steering inconsistancies but so do other suspension mods. Anything that does werar out is really not that hard to replace or is all that expensive
I just don't agree that jacking up stock suspension with clocked keys is the right way to do it.Edited by: hoot
Really hate to butt in here, but there seems to be a lot of mis-understanding going on here.
For those of you that think "indexing" doesn't mean anything, I (along with most racers) would disagree, indexing provides a reference point, whether it is crankshafts, camshafts, or progressive rate springs. starting points are critical in all of these cases.
In regards to these types of springs, they have an effective 'area of operation'/or rebound, they do not lend themselves well to 'height adjustment in regards to ride quality. Simply stated, as an example, if they were able to flex 360 degrees, then to achieve an optimum point of deflection (in regards to rebound) 180 to 220 degrees would be a premium index point. Just cranking up the springs will leave you at the end of the springs ability to deflect properly.
Cranking up the spring to gain hieght (as opposed to re-indexing) would pose all the same dynamic problems regarding upper-end rebound issues, that a racer would have not "re-indexing" a camshaft to adjust for engine changes. Everything needs a proper reference.
Control arm & axle angles are another issue...but in regards to spring height, proper indexing of the springs is critical to 'rebound', & after all, thats all springs really do (rebound). Shocks absorbers don't really absorber shock, they control spring rebound. & bushings control shock.
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