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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2003 Silverado 2500HD Duramax. 222K miles. Bought it at 160k miles. Engine smoking now. Finally found a shop to replace injectors. $4500 - 4800 cost, Labor hours are 12. Labor cost $115. Only injector replacement, SAC00, no rails, lines or valve cvr bolts. They are extra. 12 mo warranty. Sounds pretty good buit still have a funny feeling about it. Still thinking about doing it my self. Only pbm is I don't know what I don't know. Something may turn up that I wont know what to do about it or even know its a pbm.
 

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I have a 2003 Silverado 2500HD Duramax. 222K miles. Bought it at 160k miles. Engine smoking now. Finally found a shop to replace injectors. $4500 - 4800 cost, Labor hours are 12. Labor cost $115. Only injector replacement, SAC00, no rails, lines or valve cvr bolts. They are extra. 12 mo warranty. Sounds pretty good buit still have a funny feeling about it. Still thinking about doing it my self. Only pbm is I don't know what I don't know. Something may turn up that I wont know what to do about it or even know its a pbm.
If you want to tackle it yourself there is a great thread at the top of the LB7 forum section: Info: - LB7 Injector Replacement How To's

You can also find plenty of helpful videos on "How to" on Youtube
(y)
 

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2007 Klassic CCSB 2500HD. Six-gun w/speedloader, iDash, and EFILive.
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Still thinking about doing it my self. Only pbm is I don't know what I don't know. Something may turn up that I wont know what to do about it or even know its a pbm.
I did mine over the course of a long weekend. I've got four kids so nothing gets done quickly. The only gotchas were that I needed some crow's feet with flare net fittings for a few things, but you can get those at Hazard Fraught, and I managed to ruin two of the fuel pipes that go from the common rail to the injectors because they were corroded on there and twisted in half when I pulled them off. This was a long time ago so I had to drive all over North Carolina to find both of them though today I'm sure you could just get them off the interweb quickly enough.

The other thing that was a little wonky is that the valves and covers are sort of a split sandwich design. It takes the special sealant you can get from GM and it takes a while to clean them up before you seal them back together. Not the hardest job ever for a home gamer. And I like 1200 a lot better than 4,800.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OKdually, Roswell; tks for your input. I have been looking at videos on the web for replacing injectors. I have done repairs on my own vehicles and even rebuilt an engine twice. I"m sure i can do the work. Its just the unknown problem I might run into that bothers me some. I like to do this kind of work.And will probably do it. Been looking at sites for injectors and other parts. I will replace the fuel lines and maybe even the rails as well as the valve cover bolts. Thinking about a lift pump also. I have a fuel leak at hiway speed. Blows fuel from the left side of the engine. That is probably the thing that worries me. I worry that I will find something causing the leak that is a bigger problem. Doesn't leak below 2000 RPM. No visible sign on top of the engine and black light just shows dye all over the left side under. So I'm going to look for the leak also. I'm retired so I can spare the time, except I also have other projects i want to do.Also turned 73 today so I can't work as hard as I used to.
 

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OKdually, Roswell; tks for your input. I have been looking at videos on the web for replacing injectors. I have done repairs on my own vehicles and even rebuilt an engine twice. I"m sure i can do the work. Its just the unknown problem I might run into that bothers me some. I like to do this kind of work.And will probably do it. Been looking at sites for injectors and other parts. I will replace the fuel lines and maybe even the rails as well as the valve cover bolts. Thinking about a lift pump also. I have a fuel leak at hiway speed. Blows fuel from the left side of the engine. That is probably the thing that worries me. I worry that I will find something causing the leak that is a bigger problem. Doesn't leak below 2000 RPM. No visible sign on top of the engine and black light just shows dye all over the left side under. So I'm going to look for the leak also. I'm retired so I can spare the time, except I also have other projects i want to do.Also turned 73 today so I can't work as hard as I used to.
Happy Birthday!
For injectors, I would highly recommend the SAC style injectors for the LB7
Contact Brent over at Lincoln Diesel Specialties. I believe they offer up a kit that will include everything necessary to change out those injectors
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm pretty sure I am going to install the injectors myself along with new injector fuel lines, lift pump and valve cvr bolts. What else should I do while i am in there. Maybe new rails if they look rusted or some other bad. What about the CP3. Some web sites recommend to do that with new injector install. Doesn't appear to be a pbm right now unless it is the source of my fuel leak. Someone said the Fuel pressure relief valve? Any advice?
 

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I'm pretty sure I am going to install the injectors myself along with new injector fuel lines, lift pump and valve cvr bolts. What else should I do while i am in there. Maybe new rails if they look rusted or some other bad. What about the CP3. Some web sites recommend to do that with new injector install. Doesn't appear to be a pbm right now unless it is the source of my fuel leak. Someone said the Fuel pressure relief valve? Any advice?
If you contact Brent over at Lincoln Diesel I'm sure he can line you up with exactly what you need/want to do (y)
 

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2007 Klassic CCSB 2500HD. Six-gun w/speedloader, iDash, and EFILive.
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CP3s get real spendy real fast. Second vote for Lincoln diesel. Just put a piece of their kit on over the weekend and it was excellent.

On edit: kit, not kid. That was a brutal typo.
 

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I have a 2003 Silverado 2500HD Duramax. 222K miles. Bought it at 160k miles. Engine smoking now. Finally found a shop to replace injectors. $4500 - 4800 cost, Labor hours are 12. Labor cost $115. Only injector replacement, SAC00, no rails, lines or valve cvr bolts. They are extra. 12 mo warranty. Sounds pretty good buit still have a funny feeling about it. Still thinking about doing it my self. Only pbm is I don't know what I don't know. Something may turn up that I wont know what to do about it or even know its a pbm.
I've done mine twice. Not as bad as it sounds, but it was intimidating the first time. Took me one day out, one day in, but not much drama otherwise. Just tedious. Be careful you don't dislodge an injector cup, and make sure you get the injector washers back in square. The biggest hassle is the valve cover bolts, especially near the firewall. Just buy the full kit, fuel lines included. The second time, I also replaced the glow plugs. First time at 138k (overdue), second time at 207k. Now up to 235k. Still doing fine, but there will be a third time I'm sure. Compression this last time was still within new specs. The engines are bullet proof. The injectors are not.
 

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Well said.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Beginning to wonder if replacing the injectors at this time is a wise move considering the rise in diesel price. Its continuing to rise and may not stabilize for a while. With the loss of several refineries in the last few years, diesel may not return to $2 or $3 a gallon.So after spending several thousand $ on replacing injectors and a few other things, it may be too costly to operate. Thoughts?
 

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2007 Klassic CCSB 2500HD. Six-gun w/speedloader, iDash, and EFILive.
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It's probably going to be a while before there's an administration that is pro energy Independence and willing to make the sacrifices to make that a possibility. I doubt that you will see fuel prices go down anytime soon. Maybe 5 years from now? If you wanted to you could sell it for a pretty penny because everybody wants these trucks these days. Keep in mind though, you'll be very hard pressed to replace it should you want to. Mine is staying parked for the near-term.
 
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Over the long term, it would be worth the investment. The Duramax is a good strong platform and the market is currently high for them.
I would grab the parts now and get it done before the parts shortages get any worse
 
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Great time to pimp your ride. I had my front end stripped down to parade rest and got a trans-go junior for half price too. Just try to save your fluids if you can because they're all expensive as hell right now. I managed to fish small tubing down the dipstick tube for the transmission as well as through the coolant recovery tank return line to the bottom of the rad tank to capture mine into clean containers. Saved me 60 bucks in coolant and 100 bucks in ATF.
 
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I have a 2003 Silverado 2500HD Duramax. 222K miles. Bought it at 160k miles. Engine smoking now. Finally found a shop to replace injectors. $4500 - 4800 cost, Labor hours are 12. Labor cost $115. Only injector replacement, SAC00, no rails, lines or valve cvr bolts. They are extra. 12 mo warranty. Sounds pretty good buit still have a funny feeling about it. Still thinking about doing it my self. Only pbm is I don't know what I don't know. Something may turn up that I wont know what to do about it or even know its a pbm.
I did just one side on mine drivers side wasn't bad had 1 new injector that was cracked smoked Like a mosquito foggier
 

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As a driveway mechanic who has done a few sets of injectors, I recommend new return line bolts, new valve cover bolts, and drain your coolant for WHEN the injector cup comes loose it does not fill a cylinder with coolant that you will have to suck out of there. Make sure you have all the O rings for the cups on hand, and red locktite for the tips. The cups are very durable, so as long as you do not deform or beat them up, they will clean up and be reusable.

Now as for the SAC injectors, go stock unless you have access to EFI Live to defuel for the larger squirters, sure the truck will feel like an animal, but your trans will not like it much.

Clean as much BEFORE you start on the engine and blow out all around the injector lines where they go through the valve covers, and just take your time and do not get neanderthal on anything.

The return line bolts are probably the most critical to ensure they are sealed and tight, so you do not make oil when this is all over, otherwise you will be going back in to reseal them.

Good luck and enjoy your LB7
 
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