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Discussion Starter #1
What is the difference between an electronic and a manual injection pump???can you put a manual in replace of a elecctronic??? I have a 95 wih elec i am just wanting to know a little more about my fuel system.
 

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'92-'93 6.5TD - same engine - is equipped with the DB2-4911 mechanical Inj Pump

Can be done if your state doesn't comply with federally-mandated DOT vehicle emissions inspections

Get Bobbie Martin's booklet off e-bay, if you're interested.
 

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If you want to get the most power from a 6.5TD stick with the electric injection. If you want your truck to be immune to an EMP go manual.
 

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Mechanical is much easier to tweak on and get more power, saves a lot of money too over buying chips. There's just a screw to adjust fuel rate. No PMD to worry about either. 93 was the last year of the mechanical injection pump.
 

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Conversion?

FastCR;1601326; said:
Mechanical is much easier to tweak on and get more power, saves a lot of money too over buying chips. There's just a screw to adjust fuel rate. No PMD to worry about either. 93 was the last year of the mechanical injection pump.
Is electric to manual conversion hard to do?
 

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You may want to weigh out the benefits vs time invested to make conversion.

Benefit is you get is get away from PMD and some electronic faux paus.... change in power, major benefits, don't think you'll be making earth shaking gains, unless someone else can weigh in on some tremendous things that have gone unsaid.
 

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If you got a five speed and dont use cruise there aint nothing to the swap, I wish my 94 was a five speed I would have done swapped it, I hate how the electronics run(well how mine runs anyway).
 

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midniteplowboyy;1602138; said:
If you got a five speed and dont use cruise there aint nothing to the swap, I wish my 94 was a five speed I would have done swapped it, I hate how the electronics run(well how mine runs anyway).
Five speed yes :) but I do like to cruise every now and then :( Maybe after market cruise?

But to answer knkreb, I wish to play with biodiesel and WVO so I am a little concerned about the whole electric IP. That is why I think a mechanical might be better for me. I hear the optics are touchy and if they go, the IP might as well be trashed.

Any case thanks for the replies. I did a search and can't find a swap procedure for the mechanical->electrical. Anyone do this or know how it's done?
 

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send a pm to bobbiemartin.....he will set you up..
 

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Bio fuel or veggie/WVO works on the electronic IP, parts touching the fuel are mechanical, metering of the fuel is electronic controlled, remote mount a PMD/FSD with a new driver on heat sink out of engine bay IMO is the easier solution than a mechanical conversion. Opacity for the optic sensor can become an issue if veggie blend is too dark, but your veggie fuel from what I read if doing proper filtration should not be dark when prepared for use as fuel.

Now come cold weater time from what we see in the forums veggie users seem to have more "issues" than others, I don't know if a coincidence or not, just an observation, that if one runs veggie fuels then everything else has to be at 100%, cables-batts-glows-timing-IP-injectors, Diesel the fuel the engine was designed to run on is more "forgiving" to system weaknesses,.

Veggie is a viable proposition, but it requires IMO maximum dilligence to maintain the 6.5 system than just running with Diesel alone, to keep it from having impact on starting & operability, even with a mechanical IP.

I'm not bashing veggie operators, but time & again we see guys reporting in with problems, running veggie which exacerbates a weakness in their system, so if running veggie follow all purge/blending/filtration/preheating recommendations other successful veggie guys have found the hard way to be a requirement/not optional, keep starting & glow systems healthy; and you will be fine with either a mechanical or electronic IP
 

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MDT;1599890; said:
If you want to get the most power from a 6.5TD stick with the electric injection. If you want your truck to be immune to an EMP go manual.
Well, I would have to disagree here. In addition to the reliability benefits of the mechanical pump, you can certainly make as much, and probably more HP with a mechanical pump. At least Peninsular thinks so. 340 BHP enough for you? For a DB2 pump, 250-300 HP is no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks guys alot of useful information, I am actually changing the glows and injectors this week to shape it up a little....160,000 original parts still........with conversion the injectors should give me some spice back.......
 

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I just swapped a Penninsular DB2 into my '95 w/ 4L80E. Used Bobbie's manual, everything works great! Mine doesn't have cruise, but the manual covers that as well if you wanted to convert one that did have it.
 

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Just keep a good spare PMD around, and mount that thing under the nose of the vehicle someplace and veggie works great on this rig. Just pulled a 250 miler.

Really, this old motor is much better than any of the latest greatest stuff. Just be sure to buy a high quality kit for the conversion, or if you are doing it yourself, be willing to spend a little more for quality components so that you know you are at temp.
 

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The optic may not be as forgiving about water in the fuel, but no fuel system is going to be forgiving about water. It needs to be running as clean of fuel as possible in any fuel system.
 
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