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Discussion Starter #1
Where is the best place to buy these i have to get one before pulling starts here, for all you guys that have one is it a big difference when going down the track. What is the down time when installing, and any tips or trick to installing and what do i need to watch out for when installing? OH and the guys that race and truck pull does it help racing or is limited slip better?
 

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I'm glad I got mine in. You know it is work'n cuz the truck is a lil harder it turn. 1 hour to get the front end out. Watch the left axle stub it can be a PITA to get out. Some have pop right out, and I have had to cut them off also. But it should only take you 3 hrs at most to do the job. It can be done by your self but it isn't much fun that way. I got mine used. Randy's Ring and Pinion is one place to get them. there was a short supply of them is summer. Might want to make some calls soon.
 

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i wanna say vandegear.com give me awhile and i'll find my slip
 

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Crank It Up Diesel sells them as well. Look in the supporting vendor section.
 

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is there any need to reshim the front end or just bolt the ring gear on and it alreay has the carrier bearing pressed on?

later
travis
 

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bullfrogjohnson;1563628; said:
is there any need to reshim the front end or just bolt the ring gear on and it alreay has the carrier bearing pressed on?

later
travis
The carrier is being completely replaced. The chances of the stocker vs the Eaton being the exact same is slim to none. So to answer your question, yes adjustments are needed.
 

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dmaxlover;1563957; said:
The carrier is being completely replaced. The chances of the stocker vs the Eaton being the exact same is slim to none. So to answer your question, yes adjustments are needed.
On our IFS housing, where do the shims go (I'm assuming to the outside of the bearings as they are pre-pressed on). Does the E-Locker come with spare shims?
 

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I found this on Randy's:

ARBRD51
9.25" IFS GM & DODGE, 33spl AIR LOCKER

Anyone know about it? Anyone tried it?
 

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There are no shims. The adjustment is made with a big threaded "nut" which you turn via a spanner / face drive (redneck: hammer and screwdriver).

3 hours is a bit optimistic if you plan on testing the gear clearance with marking fluid. There is a GM spec of something like 0.006" movement of the yoke when properly adjusted. For the average guy taking your time, it's a start in the morning and finish up mid afternoon kind of thing. The second one you do should probably take 3 hours!

I never did boosted launches with my truck, so it came right apart. The guys that have beat on their trucks a bit generally experience more of the spline twisting and having to beat the shaft out.

The carrier does not come with a new bearing installed (pressed on) from Eaton. I know some supporting vendors will do that for you. The bearing is ~$50-$70, can't remember for sure.

And yes, it's worth every penny. Assuming, of course, that you turn it on when you're supposed to.
 

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The shorter your wheel base the more it helps. It really helps in no front hanging weight class. Not real sure if it helped me much. My truck way long and still stock turbo.
 

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bobo;1564163; said:
I found this on Randy's:

ARBRD51
9.25" IFS GM & DODGE, 33spl AIR LOCKER

Anyone know about it? Anyone tried it?
By looking at the part number and description I would guess that is an ARB locker. They use compressed air to lock the differential rather than electricity. You would have to have some sort of compressor to run it and you have to install an air solenoid and run air lines also. They work on the same concept as the Eaton; they just use a different method to achieve the same results. A little more expensive, a little more hassle and a little more that can go wrong. Personally, I would go with the Eaton.

Here's their website http://www.arbusa.com/
 

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nwpadmax;1564198; said:
There are no shims. The adjustment is made with a big threaded "nut" which you turn via a spanner / face drive (redneck: hammer and screwdriver).
So it's just like the old 14 bolt FF axles? If so that makes it much easier. I've done all sorts of GM axles (D44, D60, 10bolt, 12 bolt, 14 SF, 14 FF, etc and the 14 bolt FF with spanner carrier adjusters and removable pinion support make it much easier), so I'm looking forward to tackling my first IFS housing. I've been thinking about putting one in this year and from the posts on shortage of supply, I better get on the ball fast.

Thanks.
 

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Leadfoot;1564786; said:
So it's just like the old 14 bolt FF axles? If so that makes it much easier. I've done all sorts of GM axles (D44, D60, 10bolt, 12 bolt, 14 SF, 14 FF, etc and the 14 bolt FF with spanner carrier adjusters and removable pinion support make it much easier), so I'm looking forward to tackling my first IFS housing. I've been thinking about putting one in this year and from the posts on shortage of supply, I better get on the ball fast.

Thanks.
Trust me isn't not as easy as a 14 bolt. Remember there is no inspection cover, so the two halves of the case have to be assembled and adjusted from the outside of the housing. Then once again take apart and check for proper gear mesh. Repeat as many times as nessesary.
 

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i have a drivers side axle removal tool if you need it. Once you have it out and cant get the drivers out split the case and youll have direct contact with the axle with it. just let me know ill ship it and you can ship it back.
 

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dmaxlover;1565727; said:
Trust me isn't not as easy as a 14 bolt. Remember there is no inspection cover, so the two halves of the case have to be assembled and adjusted from the outside of the housing. Then once again take apart and check for proper gear mesh. Repeat as many times as nessesary.
Well that sucks :D J/K

I'm trying to visualize what you are saying. Hopefully my questions and your answers will help others too.

Are these correct:
I'm assuming first you disconnect the CV shafts from the axle flanges, then unbolt driveshaft, remove vent tube, mounting bolts, etc then pull the differential out (anything else need to be moved...ie. centerlink, to make room)?

The case (i.e. differential) splits in half (driver and passenger's sides).

Once the case is split, does one side move down the axle shaft?

Does one "side" have both carrier bearing adjusters mounted to it?

What holds the axle shafts in place to the differential (I'm assuming C-clips as it's not full floating)?

On a normal differential you have the ability to remove the cover, set up a dial indicator and check backlash with everything mounted. If there is no inspection cover, how is it done?
 

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When we put mine in we checked the clearance with marking compound and it was fine, so no adjustments needed. A buddy of mine has put his in and back out and back into 3 trucks now and never once checked clearances. If there is any adjustment needed it can't be much. I think they're made to pretty close tolerances.
 

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Leadfoot;1566923; said:
Well that sucks :D J/K

I'm trying to visualize what you are saying. Hopefully my questions and your answers will help others too.

Are these correct:
I'm assuming first you disconnect the CV shafts from the axle flanges, then unbolt driveshaft, remove vent tube, mounting bolts, etc then pull the differential out (anything else need to be moved...ie. centerlink, to make room)?

The case (i.e. differential) splits in half (driver and passenger's sides).

Once the case is split, does one side move down the axle shaft?

Does one "side" have both carrier bearing adjusters mounted to it?

What holds the axle shafts in place to the differential (I'm assuming C-clips as it's not full floating)?

On a normal differential you have the ability to remove the cover, set up a dial indicator and check backlash with everything mounted. If there is no inspection cover, how is it done?


You are correct. The axle shafts are held in with little retaining rings. Sometimes they are a mother [email protected]#$%^ to pull out. This is the tool that Ari is saying might be needed. On mine, we had to pop the center link off the pitman and idler arms and move it out of the way. There is also special sealant needed to assembly the case halves back together. I forget what it's called, but it's red and doesn't dry or set in the presents of oxygen.
 

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John is correct, the term he's looking for is "anaerobic" sealer. You can get it at GM and I'm sure there's a Loctite equivalent.

If you want to mark the gears with marking compound, the only way I know is to separate the halves. If you just go by the indicator movement technique, then you can just do that with it all assembled. They just put the indicator on the external yoke and measure it there, not at the gears themselves.

I imagine that a number of them may go back together with minimal or no adjusting.

One other tip, have your wiring harness going to the locker ready to go with some slack in it. If you don't, it's very tight working up in there and difficult to get at the connector.
 

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nwpadmax;1568614; said:
One other tip, have your wiring harness going to the locker ready to go with some slack in it. If you don't, it's very tight working up in there and difficult to get at the connector.
Very very good tip! I forgot all about that one.
 

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FWIW, you can see the ring gear through the vent port if you want to check the pattern.
 
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