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Discussion Starter #1
Okay my 1st dyno run at Dallas was not all that I had hoped, It was dyno shops 1st Diesel event as was mine, I did not drive the shop tech did. I had the run made in 3rd, in retrospect I'm thinking maybe it should have been run in OD if my drive home was any indication I was able to maintain a 15psi boost charge until trans kicked out, on dyno in 3rd boost peak was only 10psi and dropped to 7. what is proper way to do a dyno run.


 

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Sounds like something is wrong. You should dyno in OD to load the truck
otherwise it won't make boost. I had my truck on the dyno a couple times
and it doesn't hit the same boost numbers as on the road.
My truck ran 170 and 210 with propane. I have added injectors since then
so now it may be a bit higher.
 

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My Wheel Horse dynos higher than that
 

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Hoot, You and your truck are barking
up the wrong tree.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Geez Hoot,


Thought we wuz frienz, that's low tole you I was havin a bad day next you'll say you got a bad a$$ weed eater too, talk about below the belt kicking a fella when already down, keep it up and I have to contact a moderator about you picking on me
. Any constructive comments to add how to do a proper dyno run.
 

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Sorry Turbine.... just came to me and I couldn't hold back


Hopefully somebody here knows hoe to dyno a 6.5. I had two but never dynoed them. Geez... for that matter.. never dynoed my Dmax.

Usually you are looking to get a 1:1 drive thru your tranny. With your truck that's probably third gear. Then they want to lock the converter. I don't know about the 4L80E... if it can be done with a Tech II or if even that is the procedure.

With the Dmax Allisons, they hook up a Tech II computer to your truck. You put the truck in Drive... the technician shifts your truck for you using the Tech II. I believe he also makes sure the torque converter is locked up. Pretty amazing. You also need an rpm read. Since diesels don't use spark, there is no easy timing signal so they usually clamp on an optical pickup to your front damper/pulley.

That's the best I can do.
 

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It doesn't matter what gear you dyno in as long as your converter
is locked. Using OD puts more load on the motor and it will make proper boost.
I was looking back at a run I did with no propane and the tq was around 380.
Your HP is a little low but the tq is way down. Could be the sensor used or some other problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Joey,


#2 only what kind of 0-60 time you run power brakeing until rear wheels start slipping brakes , and spinning pavement 12-14 sec is my avg I'm pretty light in the bed as a 1/2 T, if I stay on it hard I lose traction 12 sec if I back of to get traction, or 14 if I let the wheel spin til they grab.


Also on the dyno do you want to power brake at start or just punch it from dead stop, power brake I'm at about 5-6 lbs boost when wheels start slipping brakes.
 

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Looks like it just wasn't a good run. The bump looks like ashift or lock. You need a 3rd (direct) run with the converter locked up...
 

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doc, I don't know the 0-60 time, never checked. I will have to try it out.
On the dyno, run it till it gets into the gear you want to use, then lay
into it full throttle. What gear to dyno in is a big debate I guess.
I have been told use OD and use D. Next time I go I will use both and compare.
 

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JoeyD is right about the dyno not loading the truck as if it were on the street/track. You DO need to have the convertor locked to get a proper run. You'll get 'em next time.............


Don't know why I'm actually answering you on the "place", you call me more often than my wife does!!!



Tom
 
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