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Thats a really good question.? i would make sure you get one out of a 07 classic duramax, not gas.

the wiring on the pins for the 4wd with Auto and the 4wd on a duramax is different. you have to swap one of the connectors and re pin . Testdrive did a 2wd to 4wd swap on his he may have some insight.

if memory serves he did a LBZ swap
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Kriesel- That wouldn't have been a bad idea either.

I just wanted to clean up as much as I could underneath so I figured I would ditch it. I'll come up with a system. For now I need to order some parts. 4wd switch/ gas pedal

Oh and here are some pics on where I mounted the fuel cooler. basically right behind the transfer case. I modified the braket and used it to secure it right where the cross member for the torsion bars is.





Also I have no idea what this plug goes to on the transmission. Could not find a sport for it.



Anyways kind of at a stand still right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Also yes diggy I have noticed one connector was different, I am on the prowl right now trying to find the connector. Although not having much luck :(

kinda sucks :(
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I think I remember reading someone said for the 4wd selector I can simply pull the pink wire out of the back of the harness so it cannot accidentally go into the auto 4x4 function. If anyone can confirm this I would appreciate it.

Also I figured out why my 4x4 light is on and shows it is in neutral. It has to be because the ECM came from a non 4x4 truck. I was digging around and I think extreem diesel makes a 4x4 conversion kit for the 2wd's which you send them a wiring harness from a 4x4 and your ecm and they cut and organize the harness for you and program the emc so you can properly use the 4x4 like you would from the factory($550 btw, way too much money)

So either way I am going to see if maybe I can get a hold of a tech about maybe doing an ecm flash at this point, because if I don't get that t-case out of neutral there is no way I can drive this thing. Still need to order an accelerator pedal as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
update:

Got the pedal only to realize I am going to need the wiring harness for it and the stupid bracket so there is another $100 and a week wait for the dealership.

Got a for sure on the 4x4 issue and looks like I have to take the burb to a dealership and have them flash the ECM to a vehicle with the right options. So an 06-07 dmax truck with electronic 4x4. Luckily we have several of them here and I can use one of them to haul it down there so they can do the whole process.

Forgot to post a while back the exhaust is done. Just did a 4" mrbp strait pipe. Has a 3" down pipe as well.





Also got sick of looking at the front end being white for the past couple years. (yes this project has been going on for 2 years now :( )

So I decided to plasti-dip the front end black so it doesn't stand out so bad. That way when its ready for paint I can just peal off the dip. Came out ok.





Wife thinks she is going to be driving it haha!

 

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so if I understand this correctly. When your all done. The Engine/Trans (ECM/TCM) will continue to exist with the original VIN of the truck it came from, and the BCM/Air Bag/Onstar/and other body modules will continue to exist with the same VIN of the suburban?

I thought the modules all needed to have the same VIN programmed into them?
Or Maybe its just the ECM relearn that is required?
 

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so if I understand this correctly. When your all done. The Engine/Trans (ECM/TCM) will continue to exist with the original VIN of the truck it came from, and the BCM/Air Bag/Onstar/and other body modules will continue to exist with the same VIN of the suburban?

I thought the modules all needed to have the same VIN programmed into them?
Or Maybe its just the ECM relearn that is required?
I play with programming modules all the time, and only some modules care about a VIN mismatch.

The VIN in the BCM is what the other modules consider to be "the vehicle" for anti-theft purposes. So your radio tuner & XM module need to have the same VIN as the BCM or they lock down. There are tricks to make both work after changing the VIN in the BCM. The radio can be reset with a Tech2, the XM module requires disassembly and fancier tools.

The ECM and TCM each have a VIN, but don't use it for anything besides reporting it back to a scan tool when asked. The anti-theft in the ECU is not a VIN comparison like the body modules do, it is a challenge-response at key-on. You can leave the VIN in the ECU alone, or set it to match the BCM. I usually set the ECU VIN to match the BCM just because I can.

The instrument panel cluster has a VIN stored in it, but I don't know any way to retrieve it besides disassembly and dumping the EEPROM. It doesn't appear to use that VIN for anything at all. There is no anti-theft on the IPC.

The rest of the modules don't appear to store the VIN or have any kind of anti-theft.

Edit: This is all for the GMT800 platform. Newer ones are probably different, but I don't play with them much.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Thank you for explaining all of that! Very usefully info and that makes mixmatching ecm's and bcm's very convenient.

I wish I could flash the instrument cluster to match what the vehicle really had mileage wise. It should be closer to about 50k miles(according to carfax) but they must have replaced it because it now says 20k. So between the motor mileage and vehicle mileage and now the cluster mileage I am all over the place. Which sucms. But I doubt I can change the mileage because I don't think it's stored I the exam anyway if I remember correctly.

Should be getting my harness any day now.
 

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Thank you for the excellent explanation DAVe...
So computer wise its basically running two different vehicles together simultaneously.
 

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You can send the cluster out and have the mileage adjusted. Most places want some sort of proof of the mileage on the vehicle, but since you want to add miles, I'm sure you can find a place that will do it. It isn't cheap, though, because the cluster has to be taken apart and it takes a while.

The way GM designed the computers in these vehicles is pretty generic (which is a good thing when we start swapping engines). The body computer runs the body (dome lights, headlights, module integration, etc.). The engine computer runs the engine. They speak a common language, so any GMT800 engine computer can talk to any GMT800 body computer.

You can even swap around other modules too. I put a newer instrument cluster and passenger door module in my 2003 truck, and flashed a 2004 program onto the body computer, and now I have TPMS. My Suburban has the AutoTrac AWD transfer case behind the diesel and it works great. Finding the right combination of programming on the different modules to make them all play nice can be extremely tricky, but it is amazing what all can be swapped.

Don't let the electronics overwhelm you! You don't need any special tools to re-learn the anti-theft on the ECU. There is a 30-minute procedure that requires no tools at all, and then a LBZ will happily run in a 2003 Suburban.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Sweet! I didn't know you could use the autotrack t case behind the allison. My donor was 2wd and had to buy a tcase because I thought you needed the dmax one. I could have kept my old one and saved my money on the harness I needed for it too. Oh well.

Got the coolant leak fixed which was a pain in the ass. It was the coolant bypass to the turbo was not tight and then the lower banjo bolt on the turbo for the coolant was leaking. That was crappy. Then the plastic fittings on the firewall we leaking. Had to replace those. But cooling system is finished.

Fixed my filler neck and it fill much better. Still have to go super slow and I added vents but it's still taking a while to fill.

Tried starting it but just cranks 😞

Realized I needed to do the relearn so I did the turn key on 10min off 15seconds 3x but the security light never turned off.

Did anyway and tried to start it but batteries were dead.

Was there something special I needed to do, maybe low battery kept it from relearning? Does the door have to be closed the whole time?
 

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Initially I swapped fuse blocks so that the suburban fuse block was in the truck and did the field relearn but it didn't work.

I then put the truck fuse block in, and did the field relearn, and it worked first time.

Then switch back to the suburban fuse block and make sure the wiring is correct for the ECM power.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Thanks for the reply. I will try one more time with the relearn on fresh batteries if it doesn't work again I'll try swapping fuse blocks and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
swapped the fuse block and the security light was off from the start, but I was ahead and did the relearn process anyways. Still no luck with a start. just cranks. Really stinks because I only get a little time every day after work to do anything to it then I have to go home. They let me keep it at our shop at work.

I think i am not getting any fuel. I pushed on the port used to hook up a fuel pressur guage to and nothing came out. I am using a fass lift pump and its going but I did not prime it yet. I let it run for a while before starting and I couldn't tell if I could hear it running fuel into the filters( the make a distinctive whine when they are dry)

But I usually haven't had to do the prime sequence on them. Just turn the key and it starts filling. Tomorrow I'll crack the filter and turn the key to see if it sounds any different. Maybe it will start.

If not I have some more troubleshooting.


Any who I got the throttle pedal wiring ran correctly and mounted correctly. There is a difference between how the different pedal mounts. Originally my adjustable ones have to mounting holes and the new ones have a third off to the side right where a massive hole is. The pedal isnt very stable without that third bolt so I riv-nutted it using the hole provided and it worked perfect!











 

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I've seen others have issues with initial starts, and having too much air in the filter. Prime the crap outta that thing
 

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Discussion Starter #56
So I have prime. When pump is on the fuel port shoots out fuel big time.

I need better explanation of hooking up ecm relay with constant power not just ignition. Where is the relay located? Does the wiring go through the c100 plug? Because i think i got all tgat traded out right. I dunno.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Alright decided to post an update. We got the beast running after all the trouble shooting I finally broke down and called a friend to help me flash the ECM to a different VIN and Boom fired right up!

Bad news, the transfer case is stuck in Nuetral, the shift control module and the wiring harness for it wont for the the TCCM I have in the burb. So my friend did some digging and originally thought I would have to buy a different shift module and wiring harness but then realized we could just buy a different TCCM and flash it to the right vin and it will work. So found a compatible one on ebay and it worked I dropped it of at a dealership and was able to have them flash it since I would have had to haul it to my friend who lives 4 hours away. The tech put it into reverse and was fine then tried to drive forward but it wouldn't go and threw all kinds of codes. Most of which are for the internal wiring of the transmission.

I'm kind of at a loss right now on what it could be. Maybe there was another wire on the tcm I was supposed to change other than powering it on.

So I have to wait for a few days for the tech to do another look over on it. He will drop the pan and see if he can diagnose the problem and I can go from there.


Sounds so good though :)

Just wish I could drive it.
 

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small vid of it running.

 

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Discussion Starter #59
well bad news. They pulled the pan saw a solinoid was not plugged in and also bits of clutch in the pan. No bueno. This is a brand new set of clutches, raybesto GZP kevlar clutches. Not sure how they could have came apart it if its never moved on it's own power but they put it back in and still wont move on it's own power.

So royally screwed seeing as Im broke right now. We will see what happens.
 

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You can put a modified AutoTrac transfer case behind the Allison, but it requires some machine work. I paid a local shop to do that part for me; I stick to wires and programming. You can also put the larger XHD chain in it, which I also did. So far holding up well.

Sucks about the transmission. :( It sounds like the trans needs to come out and be gone through.
 
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