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Thanks, the word document I put together is just copy/pasted from everyone else on here. I've been meaning to modify it to what I actually did, just haven't taken the time to do so. But the actual thread is a good manual too...
 

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Hey all, I posted several months back on my project, which is now essentially done (are they ever done??). Hope my picture shows up correctly. It is a 2004, with a 2005 LLY and ZF6 transmission. We have about 7,000 miles on it so far and loving it. I would be happy to provide more details if anyone has any questions, it was done entirely by me with no lift with the exception of the tuning (that may change). I don't think I have formally joined the brotherhood yet?

I was reading through a few of the recent posts on the vent lines for the tanks. Are the vents the only thing restricting flow during fill-ups? I have been rolling ideas over and over in my head on how to add 2" supply lines to both tanks, but if adding 5/8" vent lines to both tanks fixes the issue, I am on board! Has anyone actually done this and confirmed you can pump fuel with the handle locked??

I wish someone would just make a larger tank like they do for the trucks and ditch the dual tank set up.

Also, my tuner was supposed to get the dual tanks working using the factory transfer pump, but they are not working. However, I'm not even sure the transfer pump still works, I never drove it long enough as a gasser to really know. I'm tossing around the idea of putting a small external pump in between the two tanks I can control myself, but I would need to know the fuel level of each tank independently (at least the rear tank). The tuner has the fuel level readings pretty close to correct I believe, but it is not transferring fuel from the rear tank. What have you all done?

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Hey all, I posted several months back on my project, which is now essentially done (are they ever done??). Hope my picture shows up correctly. It is a 2004, with a 2005 LLY and ZF6 transmission. We have about 7,000 miles on it so far and loving it. I would be happy to provide more details if anyone has any questions, it was done entirely by me with no lift with the exception of the tuning (that may change). I don't think I have formally joined the brotherhood yet?

I was reading through a few of the recent posts on the vent lines for the tanks. Are the vents the only thing restricting flow during fill-ups? I have been rolling ideas over and over in my head on how to add 2" supply lines to both tanks, but if adding 5/8" vent lines to both tanks fixes the issue, I am on board! Has anyone actually done this and confirmed you can pump fuel with the handle locked??

I wish someone would just make a larger tank like they do for the trucks and ditch the dual tank set up.

Also, my tuner was supposed to get the dual tanks working using the factory transfer pump, but they are not working. However, I'm not even sure the transfer pump still works, I never drove it long enough as a gasser to really know. I'm tossing around the idea of putting a small external pump in between the two tanks I can control myself, but I would need to know the fuel level of each tank independently (at least the rear tank). The tuner has the fuel level readings pretty close to correct I believe, but it is not transferring fuel from the rear tank. What have you all done?

View attachment 642179
You will need the combined solution to pump at full capacity. Increasing the filler hose to 2 inch is relatively easy, lots are available and many other solutions are available here if you search. IMO the vent lines are more important, both for filling and to balance the pressure/vacuum between the tanks. The gasser vents are just too small on the early Suburbans, like my 2000, which has different factory tanks from yours BTW.
 

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Thanks for getting back to me! I just was doing some searching on this discussion and across the forum and I couldn't find where anyone had run 2" hoses to the tanks? I may have missed something. I did install a diesel filler neck, but from the Y fitting in the filler neck to the tanks it is still stock. I did find through my searching though the difference between the earlier and later tank set ups, that was new to me! What did you do with your stock vent lines that ran to the charcoal canister?
 

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Actually just found a Youtube video of how to add 2" lines! Now to order some parts and drop the tanks... again.
 

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Actually just found a Youtube video of how to add 2" lines! Now to order some parts and drop the tanks... again.
Glad you found the video. Likely only the rear auxiliary tank needs to be dropped, unless you want to increase the size of the inlet fitting for the main tank, as well as the hose.
 

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So I finally was able to purchase the donor vehicle for my swap.
'06 LBZ which should fit nicely into my '03 Suburban. I've only been waiting 2 years to get this far...It's amazing how much other crap gets in the way.

I don't plan on actually starting the project until it cools down in a couple months, 115+ degrees just takes the fun out of working outside. In the meantime I will just be planning and buying the rest of the components I need.
 

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Good idea, here is the write up that I offered so many years ago.

I have used mine as a daily drive, tow rig, and grocery getter. Been on the dyno once, never been in a pull, always driven hard and put away wet.
hey just looking into doing this swap on my 04 burb wondering about the electrical. The mechanical exchange should be easy enough its just the electrical that seems the most daunting. Is what the write up said all that needed changed or was there more?
 

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There really isnt that much to change. It just knowing what to do. Depends what dmax version your putting in. Theres a few extra changes if your doing a lbz
 

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Is there a good writeup/parts list of what all is needed to get the rear AC hooked up? (2008 LMM)
I've read about an ambulance part or something?, but never found any part numbers/pictures/diy/etc.
 

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I couldn't get the rear AC to work with parts off the shelf. I ended up finding an AC shop that would make custom lines under the hood for me
 
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Finally bought a donor truck yesterday for my LMM swap in my 07 suburban. Just read all 51 pages of this, wow what a lot of information. Have a few questions.

1. reverse body lift will my suburban front end work or will the bumper not line up and will my suburban hood clear?
2. what wires have to be added on suburban fuse block
3. how do you hook rear air up under the hood
4. I was told swap ignition switch and shifter from donor (how do you hook shifter lever up?)
5. donor truck was base model, suburban is fully loaded, will I lose anything (planned on putting suburban vin in LMM ecm)

Thanks for the help. Im excited to get started. Im pulling the LMM out and getting it rebuilt (bad head gasket) and getting built trans before starting on the install. I tow a 40 ft bumper pull camper with my suburban so the LMM will make towing great again.
 

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Finally bought a donor truck yesterday for my LMM swap in my 07 suburban. Just read all 51 pages of this, wow what a lot of information. Have a few questions.

1. reverse body lift will my suburban front end work or will the bumper not line up and will my suburban hood clear?
2. what wires have to be added on suburban fuse block
3. how do you hook rear air up under the hood
4. I was told swap ignition switch and shifter from donor (how do you hook shifter lever up?)
5. donor truck was base model, suburban is fully loaded, will I lose anything (planned on putting suburban vin in LMM ecm)

Thanks for the help. Im excited to get started. Im pulling the LMM out and getting it rebuilt (bad head gasket) and getting built trans before starting on the install. I tow a 40 ft bumper pull camper with my suburban so the LMM will make towing great again.
anyone?
 

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There are likely others with more info.
For the rear ac there is some custom connections that have to be done to tie in the rear ac. Since the only factory parts are for engines with the ac compressor on the bottom of the engine unlike the diesel, where it’s on top. I don’t have specifics but I’ll try to get a pic of what/where I’m talking about.
If your going for the stock oem look, you can keep the he stock location, but need to change the top bumper cover.
Here’s a before new cap and after.

Before with body lift and bumper in stock location:
Car Automotive parking light Wheel Automotive side marker light Land vehicle


After with early 2000-02 HD bumper cap before paint:
Wheel Tire Automotive side marker light Automotive parking light Car


This was before the body lift and swap with factory bumper cap:
Automotive parking light Wheel Automotive side marker light Car Land vehicle



Ignition and gauge cluster will be needed. For shifter I think it ties into the BCM, but no idea about details for that.
 

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I have the next body style so my front end and bumper are completely different. Does that still apply to mine?
 

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This is why I haven't replied. I don't know all the details with your body style.
 
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