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You’re welcome. Yeah, it will be the best thing you’ll ever do for your truck. My 8.1 got like 13 mpg and the duramax gets around 20. It was a lot of fun to work on too.
Thank you
 

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Hi everyone,

I am working on a few things on my 2004 suburban and need some help.

1. Is there a way I can put a manual switch on the transfer pump from the secondary tank to the primary? I pulled the pigtail off the pump on the rear tank and I have a light green, dark blue, and two black wires. Eventually I will get the tune for it to work correctly.

2. I have tried to wire the wait to start light based on wiring diagrams I have found online. I ran a wire from the C1 connector on the ECM (dark blue wire) to the A2 pin on the cluster pigtail with no luck. I didn't wire all the way to the C1 connector, I started at the plug under the fuse box. I am still getting a P0381 code and no light on the cluster.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I learned a great deal from reading through this thread, and I am looking forward to joining the brotherhood shortly!


EDIT: Sorry forgot to mention, engine is a 2005 LLY.
 

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Hi there, I had the same problem with my Avalanche until I got the tune just right for my dual tanks. One way you can do it is remove the secondary fuel pump relay and run an external relay system. The mount your switch in the dash tap a fused ignition on hot wire from your internal fuse box, like your radio, and then run it to the external relay for the activation side. Then on the switch side, just run this to your switch side of the relay in the fuse box. Basically you’re removing the relay that’s switched by the computer and now making it switched by you.

As for the wait to start light, I just ran mine from the dash all the way to the ECU connector, works just fine.
Hi everyone,

I am working on a few things on my 2004 suburban and need some help.

1. Is there a way I can put a manual switch on the transfer pump from the secondary tank to the primary? I pulled the pigtail off the pump on the rear tank and I have a light green, dark blue, and two black wires. Eventually I will get the tune for it to work correctly.

2. I have tried to wire the wait to start light based on wiring diagrams I have found online. I ran a wire from the C1 connector on the ECM (dark blue wire) to the A2 pin on the cluster pigtail with no luck. I didn't wire all the way to the C1 connector, I started at the plug under the fuse box. I am still getting a P0381 code and no light on the cluster.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I learned a great deal from reading through this thread, and I am looking forward to joining the brotherhood shortly!


EDIT: Sorry forgot to mention, engine is a 2005 LLY.
 

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2. I have tried to wire the wait to start light based on wiring diagrams I have found online. I ran a wire from the C1 connector on the ECM (dark blue wire) to the A2 pin on the cluster pigtail with no luck. I didn't wire all the way to the C1 connector, I started at the plug under the fuse box. I am still getting a P0381 code and no light on the cluster.
Make sure that both sides of the C100 plug have the blue wire lined up. The engine side of the C100 should have the blue wire already, since it was on the duramax already. I ran a wire from the C100 plug to the back of the cluster.

The blue wire on the C100 plug, this is a view of the suburban side of the C100 plug, like I said the engine side of the plug is wired already, and goes from the ECM to the C100, so you just need to go from the C100 to the back of the cluster:


Blue wire in A2 on the back of the cluster:
 

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Thanks guys!

I will check the wiring for my wts light. I believe that is exactly what I did, but I will double check. If I pin into the back of the C100 plug (ECM side), should I get voltage with a test light when the glow plugs come on? I just want to make sure the ECM is actually sending the wts signal.

What sort of relay have you all used for the external relay system?

Thanks again!
 

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I just used the one that I pulled out of the fuse box, but again it was only temporary until I got the tune. It won’t hurt to use it long time. Just doesn’t look factory.

Thanks guys!

I will check the wiring for my wts light. I believe that is exactly what I did, but I will double check. If I pin into the back of the C100 plug (ECM side), should I get voltage with a test light when the glow plugs come on? I just want to make sure the ECM is actually sending the wts signal.

What sort of relay have you all used for the external relay system?

Thanks again!
 

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should I get voltage with a test light when the glow plugs come on?!
I would think so, yes.

Could be the LED on the cluster is bad... I had a cluster that the LED for the cruise control was bad, so it's not unheard of.
 

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Colorado Durabrb swapper?

I'll admit to having skipped to the end of this to post a question. I was wondering does anyone here know a shop or mechanic on the front range of Colorado who would want to do a Duramax into a 2011 Suburban? I just bought one, as is no warranty of course, and the 6l80e is shot. I know this is way $pendier than replacing the 6l80e, but I want a diesel suburban. I love the look of the '07-'14 burbs.

Background, I currently have a '73 Suburban with a 6.5 swapped in and used to have a '96 Suburban with a 6.5. These trucks are way more fun to drive with tons of torque :thumb:

Thanks anyone who may know.
-Ian
 

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Hi Guys, I want to thank you all for the time and effort you've put in to help all of us doing our own conversions.
I'm about to relocate soon, so starting my project is going to be delayed, but I have a 2001 Suburban 2500 8.1L 4x4 w/ 277K miles, and the donor is a 2002 LB7 Allison 4x4 with 226K miles. I was fortunate to get a running, driving, complete donor truck which does need injectors prior to the swap.
Currently in Texarkana but will be moving to the Gonzales, TX area in the near future.
 

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I am primarily doing my swap for longevity and fuel economy. I use my suburban to get my kids from Texas to CA and back twice a year (and hopefully with increased MPG
= affordability, more than that in the future). Currently the 8.1 gets 9-11 MPG.
I literally read this thread from start to finish, all 96 pages here today. I had some questions:

1) My suburban has the 10.5" RG rear axle. I have the donor truck which has a 11.5" RG axle and both trucks have the 3.73 Ratio. After reading this post, I am inclined to stay with the 10.5" RG axle, but I was wondering what the Rear GAWR gain would be going with the 11.5" axle.

2) I have seen several different proposed solutions for hooking up the front and rear A/C, but I didn't recall anyone specifically doing this to the LB7 compressor and the 01/02 Suburban/Yukon.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Most people here would agree that you should use the 11.5 rear axle as for the difference in weight I cant say but for me I looked at the two side by side and that made the decision easy for me. If you do decide to use the 11.5 axle you're gonna have to cut the shock mounts off and use the 10.5 mounts cause they're angled differently on the trucks and you'll have to use the leaf springs off the suburban.
 

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I am primarily doing my swap for longevity and fuel economy. I use my suburban to get my kids from Texas to CA and back twice a year (and hopefully with increased MPG
= affordability, more than that in the future). Currently the 8.1 gets 9-11 MPG.
I literally read this thread from start to finish, all 96 pages here today. I had some questions:

1) My suburban has the 10.5" RG rear axle. I have the donor truck which has a 11.5" RG axle and both trucks have the 3.73 Ratio. After reading this post, I am inclined to stay with the 10.5" RG axle, but I was wondering what the Rear GAWR gain would be going with the 11.5" axle.

2) I have seen several different proposed solutions for hooking up the front and rear A/C, but I didn't recall anyone specifically doing this to the LB7 compressor and the 01/02 Suburban/Yukon.

Thanks in advance!
I stayed with the 10.5 in mine and it has performed flawlessly for over 300,000 miles. The last 150,000 has been with a DMax with a built trans and max EFI live tune. The rear end still feels like new. The 10.5 behind the 8.1 takes the same u joint as the DMax so you won't have to find a special joint to use.
 

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Hi everyone,

I am working on a few things on my 2004 suburban and need some help.

1. Is there a way I can put a manual switch on the transfer pump from the secondary tank to the primary? I pulled the pigtail off the pump on the rear tank and I have a light green, dark blue, and two black wires. Eventually I will get the tune for it to work correctly.

2. I have tried to wire the wait to start light based on wiring diagrams I have found online. I ran a wire from the C1 connector on the ECM (dark blue wire) to the A2 pin on the cluster pigtail with no luck. I didn't wire all the way to the C1 connector, I started at the plug under the fuse box. I am still getting a P0381 code and no light on the cluster.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I learned a great deal from reading through this thread, and I am looking forward to joining the brotherhood shortly!


EDIT: Sorry forgot to mention, engine is a 2005 LLY.
When I flip the switch to manually transfer the fuel from the aux tank to the main tank I always set the timer on my iPhone. Has anyone found a 12v digital timer we can implement so that we don't burn up the aux fuel pump on accident? One of these days I'm going to forget it's on......


****** I run my pump for 15 minutes. Does that seem right?
 

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google for 12V DC electric timer. there are a variety of them available...


As long as the tank you are pumping from still has fuel in it, it's fine to keep pumping.


If you wanted to get complicated, and the auxiliary tank has a fuel level sensor, you could use an arduino to display the fuel level in the tank, automatically stop pumping if the fuel level gets too low, and perhaps even work like the oem setup, where it automatically pumps to the main tank as the main tank is emptied.
 

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I think I'm going to go with a time delay relay. 15 minutes = 900 seconds
The 12V timers I'm finding are cumbersome and ugly.

https://www.delcity.net/store/Time-Delay-Relays/p_804415.h_811048.r_IF1003?mkwid=s&crid=38094426869&mp_kw=&mp_mt=&gclid=CjwKCAiAmNbwBRBOEiwAqcwwpfVfHGcXBQJcWuc3CCAV4V-9QCr3f_9qB22k8ZfVmKh9joYQXFuNShoC4WoQAvD_BwE

google for 12V DC electric timer. there are a variety of them available...


As long as the tank you are pumping from still has fuel in it, it's fine to keep pumping.


If you wanted to get complicated, and the auxiliary tank has a fuel level sensor, you could use an arduino to display the fuel level in the tank, automatically stop pumping if the fuel level gets too low, and perhaps even work like the oem setup, where it automatically pumps to the main tank as the main tank is emptied.
 

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I'm having a tough time finding an insurance company that will cover my Yukon XL w/LMM Allison swap. I'm looking for a policy that in the event of a total loss will give me $60,000.00. Anyone find a reputable company? I tried Haggerty's and they won't insure it bc it's not a "show car" and that 6000 miles a year is too much driving in a year.
 

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Discussion Starter #959
Just stopping to see how things are going. I am up to 13 years and time for my second replacement of injectors, only got 55k miles out of this set. Looking for advice on new injectors. Is there any new versions out there, havn't looked at them in 8 years. Also thinking of putting a 64mm turbo on, how does the Lincoln Diesel super core hold up? LDS Duramax LB7 64MM Super Core Kit (2001-2004)
Good to see some of the good old boys around. And the new blood, welcome to the club.
Boisebiker
(Father of the Duramax Suburban Brotherhood)
 

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I've heard good things about Ryan's diesel service turbos. What injectors were you running?
 
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