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Well my wife blames Boisebiker for my 2003 diesel Suburban because after reading his build thread several times I pulled the trigger. I started with a LB7 5 speed then wore the injectors out and swapped to a LBZ with the 6 speed and couldn't be happier. Now my wife is wanting me to upgrade to something newer so when work permits I'll get started on my 2011 Escalade. I would love to take the new one off your hands TDIGuy but my billfold and wife would have a heart attack lol.
 

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LOL

I have to live vicariously through others as well

When I brought the 1st 2017 3500 home my wife was afraid to even ride in it, at 135K she says "You're driving our HOUSE!!"

But they are cool

GM just made those things so hard to get VIA Fleet or UP-Fit that it eventually killed the thing, but at least it went out with a bang, the 3500 Suburban was the baddest of the bunch.
 

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Tomrex


can you snap a pick, or elaborate on which lower vent your referring too?. i did my swap almost 3 years ago and this is still the one and only thing i hate about the swap (20+ min fuel ups). i have fully removed my canister and have the vent lines for both tanks "T" up at the neck, and its still slow.



thanks in advance.





Yes, the 07 up absolutely has two tanks. The main is midship and the aux tank is in the rear above the spare. Mine took FOREVER to fill as well until I disconnected the bottom vent tube that went to the charcoal canister in the rear. It got to the point that I'd fill it before I let anyone else drive it because I didn't want them dealing with it. One of these days I'm going to remove it all together. I ran a hose straight up the side of the filler neck and zip tied it up there with a small filter over the end to keep the spiders out. Once that hose was disconnected I can fill wide open at the pump. I still have the stock "y-pipe" that runs to both tanks, it seems to work fine unless I put a semi-style pump in it.
 

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My build was influenced by seeing a duraburb video on YouTube and finally I got everything I needed to complete the build and some info help from skippie and a tapered body lift from skippie I use mine for daily driver,kiddo hauler,grocery getter, toy hauler. I likey suburban alot more now with the dmax powerplant behind it
 

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Tomrex


can you snap a pick, or elaborate on which lower vent your referring too?. i did my swap almost 3 years ago and this is still the one and only thing i hate about the swap (20+ min fuel ups). i have fully removed my canister and have the vent lines for both tanks "T" up at the neck, and its still slow.



thanks in advance.
Sorry this took so long! It didn't even notify me that I had a response here. Lol. I'm out of town but I will absolutely take a pic when I get home. I've had to blow that tube out with compressed air a few times since. I don't know where the crap is coming from that clogs it up, but I can sure tell when I'm filling! The only bad side about me blowing it out is it winds up in the tank somewhere. I keep up with my FASS filter changes though...hopefully they're doing their job! I still can't fill up at a semi fill at full bore, but a standard diesel pump, at Speedway, is an easy task now. I start light on the pump and then open it about 2 seconds after i start pumping. One of these days a new "y" will be made and ill be happier than a pig in $hit. The burb has been great, no complaints at all. Also, if it helps - I remember off the top of my head that it was the 1/2" hard line that was connected to the bottom of the 3 connections at the charcoal canister. I started ripping them off while I was filling at the station until fuel went in easier. I left the rear tank vent alone. No T fitting, nothing. Just pulled the front tank vent from the canister. The bottom one of the three started puking lots of air out while filling, and fuel went in a LOT easier. I just plain left it disconnected for the longest time. Maybe a bad idea on my part, but it went 15k miles before it got a new line and zip tied up. Never saw any water or crap in my filters.
 
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Ok so this is when I first figured out why my fueling was so slow. This is the one that I disconnected.
 

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Why do you need to keep the charcoal tanks?

I have a gasser 6.0 Burb and I absolutely hate filling it up. One of the things I loved about diesels is just being able to dump fuel straight into the tank.
We don't need them. I just left it there when we built it because we didn't know any better. Lol. Wish I had a better reason, but now it's simply laziness and I don't need the extra room under there. Gassers use it to diffuse the gasoline vapor escaping the tanks while filling - or when the temp changes. Diesel trucks benefit "zero" from them.
 

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I didn't remove my charcoal containers either, in the thought that I didn't want to change any of the vent system and see if it works ok. I can fill as fast as I want probably 90% of the time, not with a large semi-truck filler, but the smaller diesel filler. Most of my problem with filling seems to be the angle of the filler in the fill-neck, and if I have it at the right angle, it fills fine every time.
 

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I dont know where I'd be at on the "brotherhood" list but bought mine back in November 2018 - finally was able to drive it in April or beginning of May 2019.

So I'm sure some of you may have seen this for sale last year - but someone in Oregon did this conversion 2-3 years ago and imo screwed up a lot of stuff - the LLY motor in it had a cracked cylinder head so I shot a very low offer to the present owner thinking they wouldnt take it and they did. Bought it site unseen and had it shipped to KS - thought heck I'll throw a new cylinder head on it and wont be in it for much money - figured that was a dumb idea as after tear down you could tell this vehicle had head gasket issues for a while as a couple cylinders were "washed out" and somewhat worn smooth in a couple spots - so after that I just went crazy.



Called SoCal and had a motor built - $18k later

I have an LLY/LBZ hybrid motor

** For what I know - blocks are same 01-10 so started with a block that had been tested by SoCal
** Upgraded to LBZ heads
** 10% over injectors
** Head Studs
** Crank Studs
** LBZ CP3
** LMM/LBZ rods (thicker than LLY rods)
** New Pistons
** LLY Reluctor Wheel (If I ever want to yank out ECM & TCM and convert to LBZ I Can - if I change to LBZ reluctor wheel)
** New Cam/Crank Position Sensor
** Stage 1 Turbo - new
** new water pump
** new oil pump
** Curt Class V hitch
** EGR Delete - ordered new manifolds, up pipes and down pipe from Cast Flow in Missouri
** Installed a breakin tune from Danville Performance -- Need to get a new one from them as my fuel mileage is crap
** My favorite part on the exterior - Iron Bull Pre-runner bumper - added 4 driving lights and is winch ready


Long story short original builder didnt do the wiring per how most reputable builders would have done it (Duraburb, Mash Motors, Guy in Nebraska etc) -- so some wiring had to be repaired/repinned by Mash Motors in Wichita


Now the little quirks I have - one last coolant leak I need to chase down - think some a bolt needs to be tightened on either the coolant blockoff plate on passenger side or coolant elbow near oil filter on drivers side - haven't got a good view to see which side yet --

** Thinking the coolant stack needs to be removed/powerwashed - I had asked my buddy who was working on it initially to do so and I dont think he did (I know - never let friends work on your stuff - I made the mistake as he couldnt get it figured out and had to get it to Mash Motors)

** Conversion only has the "front" suburban tank in it - rear has been removed - either have a bad stepper motor or a bad sending unit as only a fraction of the time does the guage work. It appears to be accurate when it does work - want to convert back to stock suburban dual tank setup or install a titan spare tire tank meant for the 3/4 & 1 ton trucks - from what I can tell it would work in the suburban - but I'm not 100% certain yet

** Will remove the top roof rack - I dont like it - think it's killing my fuel mileage and I'm not sure if I'll ever use it.
** Will possibly put a 3-4" suspension lift
** Adjustable King 2.5 Reservoir shocks will be added
** Will replace front end with all new parts from Kryptonite or Cognito -
** Will likely get rid of the 18" rims and go back to 16" or 17" and hopefully 35" tires
** Replace both rockers - photos hid rust - vehicle not rusty but from what I've seen online seems common for rockers on GMT800's to rust??
** Remove all Denali moldings/badging
** Add Fender Flares
** custom rear bumper with removable spare swingout arm to keep full size spare
** Line-X the roof - maybe put Z71 roof rack on or no roof rack at all
** New lightbar for the front bumper - move existing light bar to my truck
** New interior - all new Catskin leathers - likely change center heated bench to heated captains - maybe new carpet - will also dynomat the floor and sidewalls where ncessary
** Change out 03 Denali Center Console for a Tahoe or Suburban console - more drink storage and more storage periord - my wifes 05 Tahoe center console is A LOT more functional than the denali one in mine due to minor details
** Switch out everything to LED on interior and then switch parking lights -- headlights and tails already switched
** 01-05 Alison 6spd conversion and add tapshift
** Likely pull trans at same time and have a stage 1 kit put in
** Powerstop slotted rotors and calipers upgrade
** new ujoints for driveshafts -
** new CV shafts
**01-02 Chevy HD hood installed and trimmed to fit GMC front end
** AMP electric side steps

***** I know the grille or hood doesnt quite line up right - shop installed Iron Bull bumper too far up and needs to adjust it down - I'm also thinking the yahoos that did build did not put truck hood latch on the cooling stack - that or something else is off - haven't had time to research yet. Grille will be painted black or I'll bedliner coat it like the Iron Bull Bumper - will keep the red GMC emblems

Paint Correction and minor body repairs/paint where needed (4-5 dents that need traditional body repair)


By the time I'm done with the list above I'll probably be up to $70k invested but I'll have for the most part a "BRAND - New" vehicle that I like - adding all that stuff to a brand new generation build and I'd be well over $100k -- ridiculous and overboard - you bet - having this vehicle in the first place is ridiculous to be frank - it's my daily driver for now - I'm sure if most people that dont get it knew the investment I have now they'd think Im crazy - I probably am - but hey - I also think people who buy brand new stock vehicles and pay all the property tax/sales tax then trade them in every couple of years are crazy as well. Hopefully when I'm done with everything if I decide to sell in 5-10 years I wont lose my *** on value - maybe maybe not. Either way I'll be driving what I want and like and hopefully this vehicle will provide lots of memories as we plan a lot of road trips. Have put 3500 or so miles on the new motor so far - furthest was NE ks to Dallas and back.

 

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Forum wouldnt let me edit the message for some reason


Here's a couple photos of it dirty
Looks sharp. At first I was like, your roof rack can't be wrecking the fuel mileage that bad, then I saw the picture... haha!
 

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New member here, I just wanted to say than you for all of the information as it will be very useful when I can start my own Duramax conversion sometime next fall.

Right now I am still in the researching and saving stage, but I have a 2003 2500 Suburban 4x4 with the 8.1 that I really like but need better fuel mileage and would like more power for towing a 7K trailer. We have a lot of 6 and 7% grades to climb in AZ.
 

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Let me know if you have any questions. I did a conversion myself and I’m in the Phoenix area as well.

New member here, I just wanted to say than you for all of the information as it will be very useful when I can start my own Duramax conversion sometime next fall.

Right now I am still in the researching and saving stage, but I have a 2003 2500 Suburban 4x4 with the 8.1 that I really like but need better fuel mileage and would like more power for towing a 7K trailer. We have a lot of 6 and 7% grades to climb in AZ.
 

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Let me know if you have any questions. I did a conversion myself and I’m in the Phoenix area as well.
My biggest concern is registering here in Phoenix. The mechanical side should be simple enough especially with the experience that many of you have if something comes up.

It would suck if I went through the work and expense and then couldn't register...

I know most people have a preference for EFILive for diesels, but I already have HPTuners. I imagine it should do most of the required functions to disable VATS as well as fine tune.

What area of PHX are you in? I'm in Mesa.
 

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You don’t need to do anything registration wise. It’s the emissions that come into play as the VIN comes up gasoline. I did mine when I lived in Tucson. They have emissions there as well. Make sure you have a muffler, catalytic converter, and can set your tuner to stock. They’ll look confused, grab a manger, and ask what’s going on. But they should pass you as long as you have all the right emissions controls required for a diesel pickup for the year of your truck, not the motor. And the motor has to be the same year or newer of the truck. I have a 2003 avalanche and put a LBZ from a 2006 Silverado. Therefore I needed all emissions controls for a 2006 Silverado on my Avalanche. When they hook up the OBD II their system will be reading the engine not the body it’s installed in. So unfortunately no EGR deletes. I’m in Maricopa now, lucky for me...no emissions. Here is a copy of my test to prove I know what I’m talking about. If you run the VIN it shows Avalanche, and you can see diesel as the fuel type.
 

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I don’t think I ever posted finished photos of mine. Enjoy!
 

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