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I used Earls fittings,#8 which is 1/2" there fuel cell bulkhead fittings, just drill hole, put it through and tighten nut... real simple


Skippie
 

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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
Well looks like the fuel tank issue hit a dead end, so lets move on. Next issue is how did you deal with fuel piping and the fuel cooler?

Personally I installed new fuel lines from the hard lines at the transmission. I used hose for all new lines. Just ordered a few feet of fuel line (rated for diesel) from the local hose shop. I used 1/2" for the supply and 3/8" for the return. I used all of the existing fittings that were in the hoses that came off the donor. Cut off the crimp and then use hose clamps. I installed my fuel cooler between the transmission and the frame in front of the tranny cross member. I had to install it sitting flat in the horizontal plane. So far I have had to tighten the hose clamps just once. I have not done any testing to see if the cooler is as effective as the original location, but I feel that it is still doing the job it was intended for.

Let us know how you handled your fuel lines and fuel cooler. Also did you install additional filtering?
 

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Do you guys have any problems filling at the pump??? I get a lot of foam when i start filling the 10 gallon rear tank. I have to figure a way to vent it. Also can you guys use the big pumps???
 

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I also used diesel rated hard lined nylon fuel line(simliar to the OEM line, just with a thicker nylon core) for my fuel line. 1/2" feed, and 3/8" return. I ran mine all the way from the engine back though as the stock truck lines wouldn't clear my steering shaft. I installed my fuel cooler just behind the mid frame crossmember pretty much right where GM put it in the trucks. As for filling up, no problems as mine is a 2" hose with a straight shot in and a 3/4" vent line coming up at a straight shot as well. Big truck nozzles are no problem for me which is a good thing as putting in 35 gallons or so takes awhile at the regular pump.
 

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I'll look at the line we use at here at DuraBurb tomorrow, Nick from Duramaxtuner.com just left and I went home, late night for all, I'll get you all some hose numbers in the morning.
 

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Thanks so much eric its just one of those little pains. Hope to talk to ya soon. I was also curious if i could run a larger 2in fuel neck line so i can use the large pumps. Thanks for all the info guys and have a great one.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I did not have the original fill spout from the donor truck so I have the original Yukon spout. I can not use the larger truck nozzles. I also do not have an issue with filling or with foaming. I used all of the venting from the gas system and it seems to work fine.
 

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Do you guys have any problems filling at the pump??? I get a lot of foam when i start filling the 10 gallon rear tank. I have to figure a way to vent it. Also can you guys use the big pumps???
Bravo98, I still have the gas neck and do about as well with it as I did when I was filling it with gasoline. Of course, I took a sharp chisel and cut out the ring near the top, but other than that no change.

Using the standard station diesel nozzle, I insert it all the way down until it is tight into the small part of the filler neck. This acts as an extension of the nozzle and works fairly good. Sometimes if I don't think it is taking the fuel well. I grab the luggage rack and rock the Suburban back and forth a little. It doesn't take much. Also, the burb needs to be level for a full fillup.
I used this same method when filling with gasoline. With the 8.1L you get to be an expert at the pumps.

I have the donor neck, 2 inch hose and a adapter, but have not installed it. Not sure it would help. But it would be nice to use the big nozzle on occasion.

I have ~5K on mine since its creation.
 

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Guys thanks so much for the info. It might be the fuel mix in chicago i have tryed everything from rocking to letting it drizzle in. Eric knows of my issue and is designing something to fix it. I cant be happier with this truck. Im not the builder like many of you guys but when someone has a vehicle made exactly the way they want its a total different feeling. Lets put it this way i fill the truck up with gas cans on the last 10 gallons it foams that bad at the pump. Non the less its worth it this truck is my baby. By the end of summer it will be much different bumpers safari roof rack painting the truck white. On top of that we will be shooting for 1000 hp to the ground and drive it everyday.... Once you go with a dmax suv you will never go back... Eric wasent shitting around when he said you can have your cake and eat it too... First thing first traction bars, new trans lines, a trans brace, and 3in cold side boost tube.. ill figure out how to put up pics... Again thanks for all the info when it gets warmer ill check the vent hose... Things are gonna get interesting...
 

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Some day I will have this! We currently have an 03 Duramax crew cab and an 04 Suburban I'm betting the swap wouldn't be too terribly bad.. if I wanted to give up two vehicles to make one.. BUT - it may happen some day! This looks to be an awesome and exclusive club and one I hope to join some day soon!
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Blue01f250,
You can do a complete swap and still have 2 vehicles, gas crew cab and diesel suburban. For a small fee I think that Eric will complete the gas truck conversion at the end of the job. As he says you can have your cake and eat it too.
 

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HA - true.. never thought of it that way! hmmm.. now to find $15K layin around.. :D

plus its just a 1500 burb...
 

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WOW 15K!! your a big spender!!
The Initial build would set you back 5-6K parts&labor (DP price) and your looking at 2500.00-3500.00 to put the P/U in gasser mode.

7500-9500 turn key, its all done on volume here, we pump these things out every 2 weeks.

Eric
 

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Discussion Starter #55
That brings up a good topic of discussion. Can a 1500 Suburban be used for this conversion? I know most of us used a 2500 because we want to tow. Who has used a 1500, what were the major differences, what are the major drawbacks?
 
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I understand what your asking with the 1500, but I thought I'd just say, if your going to use a 1500 body on a 2500 frame, there is 3 body mounts that are different. the holes are in the floor pan, but the nuts are not there. I ground a opening big enought to slide a 12mm nut that I had welded to a peice of flat bar 2" long up inside, then tack welded the flat bar in place once I lined the nut up with the hole. Worked well

Skippie
 

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Yes 1500's are fine (much harder) but usually the Tahoe 706 body and for all out performance reasons, the added weight of the 906 body would negate the value of it I would think.
 

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Discussion Starter #58 (Edited)
That is a build that I think would be a lot of fun, and economical. A 2003-2006 Tahoe (or Yukon) with an LBZ. All the power in the world, lighter body, better turning radius, still able to tow decent trailer sizes, still seat 8 bodies, and hopefully break the 25mpg barrier. Way better than a minivan.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Injector replacment

Well if you are reading this thread then you are either interested in doing a swap or you have completed one and want to learn all you can. Here is an example of what you need to know if you use a 2001 to 2004 LB7 engine. I have had evidence of fuel in my oil for a few years now. 18 months ago it got bad and I had to park the truck. I ordered injectors a week ago and they are sitting on my counter. So I just finished checking the balance rates so I have a base line to refer to after the swap. So far you can see my balance rates in the attachment. For the most part these would be concidered good balance rates. I also checked the fuel rail pressure and found that when I command 23000psi it will only hold about 13000psi. The CP3 only has about 40,000 miles on it so that is unlikely. Tomorrow I will start taking the valve covers off and will replace the injectors. While in there I will be checking valve lash, return lines and high pressure lines.
 

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well i guess we pushed the limit of a factory frame and body on a Yukon XL... the windshield broke over the weekend playing around. the only thing i can think happened was the body torqued and it broke... the trim around the window even buckled... now im looking into a roll cage for the truck and if were gonna do that its time for more power... Eric give me a call if you read this i have a couple questions for ya...
 
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