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Discussion Starter #1
When I buy a new vehicle I keep it a long time as I only put on around 6000 miles a year. Wondering if anyone had any thoughts of putting in a engine treatment call "Dura Lube"???
I have read very good things about it as far as reducing friction ect.
My 2500HD with the 8.1 is a year old and have 3100 miles on it.
Any thoughts??????
 

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Yeah, save your dough for a good engine oil & filter and change them regularly. With modern oils the adding of engine-oil treatment is a waste in my opinion. And, Dura Lube's claims are only good if you use it every oil change. The price of this product easily offsets the extra cash for good dino or synthetic oil.
JP
 

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I agree... waste of money in my opinion. My 01 8.1 has 144,000 on it and no engine trouble so far, I just change the oil and do the other maintenance. This is also a work truck / plow truck and gets run hard daily... no babying here. It's always had Quaker State 10w30 summer and winter and Carquest (Wix) filters... nothing special, no synthetic ect.... by the time it dies I'll be ready for a new one anyway!
 

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I had duralube in my 1980 chevy pu with a 350 in it. I took off from a stop sign and the oil pump shaft broke at the end where the tang is. It made a terrible racket, and only made it another 3 miles before the motor was seized to the point that it would not stay running. So there claims are not accurate, like the other guys said, go with a good synthetic (amsoil) and you'll never have a problem.

I run amsoil in my diesel which I only put about 6,000 miles\year and only change it once during that time.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the advise!!!!
I am nuts about preventive maint. on my vehicles and when you drop
in the 40's for a new one, you kinda want it to last.
Thanks again!!!
 

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FTC: Dura Lube Ads Were False and Unsubstantiated
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/05/duralub2.htm
Dura Lube claims their current formula contains no solids (which are very bad), and is also not corrosive.

Some time ago I evaluated all the engine oil additives on the market.
In the past, Dura Lube had at least one of those drawbacks.

The only one that was actually effective, without the drawback of being corrosive, was ZMax. While the FTC sued them as well, eventually Oil-Chem Research won on most of the points. (By the way, the manufacturer told me that there is only one formula of ZMax; they have different varieties for marketing purposes). ref: http://www.zmax.com/history/linkite.html Zmax is the only engine oil additive of this type that is FAA approved for use in reciprocating aircraft engines.
 

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If you feel you must have some kind of supplement use GM EOS (engine oil supplement), after turning wrenches for 25 yrs I long ago figured that if the stuff was as good as advertised it would be in the engine from the factory
 

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I swear by Tuff Oil. This is no sh!t. I always put it in my old Blazer. One day I had the oil changed in it at the local Amoco. After picking it up, I drove a coupla miles away before I noticed I had ZERO oil pressure! Pulled the dip stick & it was dry. I was pissed. Drove it back (figured damage was done), they apologized and promised to make good an any repairs. Filled it with oil & I had no problems. Never over heated. Made me a believer.
 

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after turning wrenches for 25 yrs I long ago figured that if the stuff was as good as advertised it would be in the engine from the factory
That argument is a red herring. Inexplicably, GM doesn't see fit to include the arguably better high end SunCoast transmission, either. Nor do they even include their own AC Delco Ultraguard Gold oil filter, which by their own claims is far better than the other alternatives.
 

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I've been useing IXL for years now. It helped lower the temps in my 6.5L. I've never blown a engine useing IXL. I put it in every thing except my Yamaha Raptor's trans. It is hard to find. I recomend searching it on the internet and ordering that way. I can find the number of the guy I bought it from and give it to you if you PM me. I don't know if it would be cool to post it here. BTW, I don't personaly know this guy.
 

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I've been using IXL for years now. It helped lower the temps in my 6.5L. I've never blown a engine using IXL.
ref.: http://www.lubricationproducts.com/generalinfo.htm
"The way IXL works is that it conditions the metal 3 to 5 microns deep. the IXL penetrates into the surface of the metal."

I had never heard of IXL before, but this sounds like the same concept as ZMax (which hopefully means that it works as well). The price is about the same too.
 

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Elvis... we're talking oil suppliments, not hi-po parts.
IF there was a "X" percent milage gain to be had, along with a similar decrease in friction and wear, ALL the engine manufacturers would be all over said product, if for nothing else to raise their CAFE rating
I've seen all and heard all, even had product reps give demos at the shop,watched the infomercials(they make me laugh), even tried a few, my conclusion, don't help... just keep good maintainance and engine will live a long time.
As for the suncoast, we could all wish for it but stock ally is fine for stock/ lightly modded Dmax.

One last thing.... Chevy engineers found the small block chevy will run for approx 2 hours with NO oil or water
 

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Elvis... we're talking oil suppliments [SIC], not hi-po parts.
This argument is, and continues to be, a red herring. And an odd one too, considering that most in this forum have spent a lot on aftermarket parts that may not be justified on a strict cost-benefit basis.

GM doesn't see fit to include Amsoil synthetic oil in their OEM application, either.

Nor do they even include their own AC Delco Ultraguard Gold oil filter, which by their own claims is far better than the other alternatives, and is a part of the oil system.

Nor do they include bypass oil fitration, another part of the engine oil system.

Like all manufacturers, GM makes a cost-benefit tradeoff on issues they may have to cover under warranty.

As for the tricks manufacturers use to improve the EPA fuel economy ratings, they can and do already use a number of "tricks" that are partially reponsible for the ratings being lower than real-world mileage.
 

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I think he likes to say "red herring". :joke:
 

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Then why does F&^% use 5w20 oil instead of these additives? Answer... improved CAFE scores, would any sane person use something that light?
Like everything else, there's 2 sides to every story, mine is I don't use or reccomend them. Others like them, to each their own.

What's a red herring??? does it smell bad?
 

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Then why does F&^% use 5w20 oil instead of these additives? Answer... improved CAFE scores, would any sane person use something that light?
Like everything else, there's 2 sides to every story, mine is I don't use or reccomend them. Others like them, to each their own.

What's a red herring??? does it smell bad?
Hey,

That is exactly why they all run 5W20 or 5W30 in new vehicles. To keep the CAFE scpres as high as possible!!
 

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I'm wondering which maker will be first to put 0w-20 in, some of the nascar boys run that for qualifying runs
 

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Finding original formula "DuraLube" will not be easy (It wasn't the exact same stuff when commerical marketing pushed it vs. the early inventor marketing at the beginning). I agree with Heartbeat Hauler :exactly: save your money and buy quality oil/filter, change often, or opt for the synthetic stuff. Read about oil on the web, start with Bob is the Oil Guy. You may even want to do a UOA on your rig. good luck! :chevy:
 
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